Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy
Deltaboy1984
Member
Yes but I always used 3-in -1 oil!
I use this. I think about anything non-detergent. I like a very low viscosity for many things. My brother was a very high level Halibuton exec. He had a meeting one day with the Halliburton fleet manager. They had done much analysis about oil and oil related failure. His conclusion, “put some f***ing oil in it.” So...it matters less about what kind, than actually using some! But as Cobalt has clearly stated, “not too much”Hinz, what is the part number of the turbine oil? Want to see what I can find out about it. I did find info here: https://www.torrco.com/ASSETS/DOCUM...3240 Zoom Spout Turbine Oil Oiler4 oz_SDS.pdf but the product code may not be the same as the part number on your container.No hurry if you're back in from the shop, just whenever it's convenient.
The most recent Daisy recommendation I'm aware of says to "Use a "20" weight motor oil. Do not use light weight household-type oils." (Link to Owners Manual https://www.daisy.com/product/Red-Ryder-Model-1938/?itemnumber=991938-011) Detergency is not mentioned. FWIW, I believe the non detergent recommendation began many years ago when there were no EPA or standards that motor oil formulators had to adhere to. The additives used way back when could well have been anything, and I don't doubt that some early oil additives or 'detergents' could have been harmful to a BB gun. But modern motor oils, in my opinion, do not impose a risk. That said, I wouldn't recommend "high mileage" motor oils that are formulated with compounds that affect rubber seals.
I (also) use a thinner viscosity motor oil than traditional 30w ND motor oil- 5w-20 Mobil 1- and have had no issues.
Bottom line is a good quality motor oil will be fine and if there's any lingering concern, by all means seek out 20w non detergent motor oil. Also be aware that Pellgunoil is a detergent motor oil and the markup is 4000%!
The most recent Daisy recommendation I'm aware of says to "Use a "20" weight motor oil. Do not use light weight household-type oils." (Link to Owners Manual https://www.daisy.com/product/Red-Ryder-Model-1938/?itemnumber=991938-011) Detergency is not mentioned. FWIW, I believe the non detergent recommendation began many years ago when there were no EPA or standards that motor oil formulators had to adhere to. The additives used way back when could well have been anything, and I don't doubt that some early oil additives or 'detergents' could have been harmful to a BB gun. But modern motor oils, in my opinion, do not impose a risk. That said, I wouldn't recommend "high mileage" motor oils that are formulated with compounds that affect rubber seals.
I (also) use a thinner viscosity motor oil than traditional 30w ND motor oil- 5w-20 Mobil 1- and have had no issues.
Bottom line is a good quality motor oil will be fine and if there's any lingering concern, by all means seek out 20w non detergent motor oil. Also be aware that Pellgunoil is a detergent motor oil and the markup is 4000%!
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Cobalt, I don’t disagree with any of your oil statements. I kind of found this stuff and really came to like the extendable spout. Very convenient in many applications! So I find that I use it and have less clean up of the oil that got away or overspray. We also used it where I used to work for lubricating micrometers and such. Part of my job was calibrating and certifying measuring instruments in a very large machine shop. I was an API inspector. So going back a bit, I err on the side of using something, but not getting to hung up on what it is. I’d probably even use bacon grease if that what I had handy!
Wow, thanks for all the info and suggestions. I’ve put a silicone oil in one of the bucks . I’ve been really disappointed with the FPS I’m getting out of all the Daisy’s ive put thru the Chrony. From 260 out of a China “25”, 275 from the RR carbine to 290 from the buck with silicon in it. All new China guns. Haven’t added oil to any other than the silicone’d buck. I’ll pick one of the others and try a 20w motor oil.
Someone suggested cleaning the bores of any oil. Cleaned them with acetone . Careful not to get any into the seals. Seems to have greatly reduced my “flyers”. I check this by watching the bb fly out past 30 yds or so. If they stay straight that far we’re happy.
I hadn’t seriously shot “spring” guns for many years. Shot the heavy barrel cockers before I got into the PCPs. Forgot how difficult the springers are to shoot. Long time before that bb leaves the barrel after the spring bangs home.
Got one of the bucks hitting a coke can at 50’—90%. I epoxied a 1/8” washer on the rear sight. That really helped the ole eye balls and got the poi where I I was pointing. More than one one way to skin——
Thx Really enjoy speaking with people with similar brains
Someone suggested cleaning the bores of any oil. Cleaned them with acetone . Careful not to get any into the seals. Seems to have greatly reduced my “flyers”. I check this by watching the bb fly out past 30 yds or so. If they stay straight that far we’re happy.
I hadn’t seriously shot “spring” guns for many years. Shot the heavy barrel cockers before I got into the PCPs. Forgot how difficult the springers are to shoot. Long time before that bb leaves the barrel after the spring bangs home.
Got one of the bucks hitting a coke can at 50’—90%. I epoxied a 1/8” washer on the rear sight. That really helped the ole eye balls and got the poi where I I was pointing. More than one one way to skin——
Thx Really enjoy speaking with people with similar brains
Nice. Where u get them ?
Parts came from Daisy. Magnets from K&J Magnetics. Guns from a lot on eBay. All are older US production. The 1938b’s are among the cleanest I have found! Very little finish damage, rust, dents. $42.50 for all 3, including shipping. So these qualify for $15.00 Daisy’s!
Cvans
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
- Messages
- 463
In the early days of Daisy up to the Sixties Non-Detergent oils were about the only thing available. Would guess that was the reason for the recommendation. They also used much heavier weight oils than today.
10 or 20w oil should be acceptable in a BB gun.
I have been using the turbine type oils to lubricate small electric motors and moving parts for years. Have had excellent results.
10 or 20w oil should be acceptable in a BB gun.
I have been using the turbine type oils to lubricate small electric motors and moving parts for years. Have had excellent results.
Hinz57 mentions the importance of the barrel crown. Our local gunsmith will immediately ck the crown—even on the finest firearms If there’s a problem of accuracy, he’ll recut the crown. Just to be sure. May not be as important with bbs due to the amount of clearance found in a daisy bore. But certainly a “burr” would cause problems.
Back to the Asian CO2 bb pistol using a “rubber” detent to position the chambered bb as a daisy uses a magnet or spring wire. I think this material also imparts a backspin allowing bbs to fly farther and straighter. They do it in the airsoft guns also.
It appears there is about .040” of interference in the bore, if a bb measures .174”. In this gun, they used, best I can tell, a piece of round solid tubing.
And the bb rests directly against it when chambered, otherwise the material might act as an obstruction.
These guns have heavy walled barrels allowing the rubber detent to be easily held into place. Of course the Daisy’s are thin tubing. Would be more difficult to place and hold
What we really need is someone to toolup and build us old men a “Daisy” like we want. I’d pay the $$$. Thx for listening.
Back to the Asian CO2 bb pistol using a “rubber” detent to position the chambered bb as a daisy uses a magnet or spring wire. I think this material also imparts a backspin allowing bbs to fly farther and straighter. They do it in the airsoft guns also.
It appears there is about .040” of interference in the bore, if a bb measures .174”. In this gun, they used, best I can tell, a piece of round solid tubing.
And the bb rests directly against it when chambered, otherwise the material might act as an obstruction.
These guns have heavy walled barrels allowing the rubber detent to be easily held into place. Of course the Daisy’s are thin tubing. Would be more difficult to place and hold
What we really need is someone to toolup and build us old men a “Daisy” like we want. I’d pay the $$$. Thx for listening.
Stay tuned! Working on just such a project!
ChedaCheese
Member
Well thanks to cobalt I have found a new love for my childhood Red Ryder. I’ve spent the last few months restoring it and I think it came out pretty great. Thank you cobalt for the springs. Sorry I don’t have a before picture I always forget to take one. (my wife hates that I forget that too) Oh and I’m a lefty so moving the saddle ring helps keep it out of the way.
