Cvans
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
- Messages
- 463
He's not the only one.
He asked which lever I wanted and went with the straight one as it looks better with that stock. Also going with the original color as the grain didn't show as well with the gray.
Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy
He asked which lever I wanted and went with the straight one as it looks better with that stock. Also going with the original color as the grain didn't show as well with the gray.
This thread is great! I bought a new 1938b bored the air tube to 3/32 and a half inch spacer. The rifle was too hard for my son to operate so I took out the spacer. The rifle still shoots great with 3/32 air tube. He can hit cans at 60' no problem. I have since bought a new # 25 and vintage 1105 off ebay to modify. Great info here!
Cvans
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
- Messages
- 463
WARNING! These guns are addictive.
Nice to hear you and your son are enjoying these guns.
Earlier I mentioned a scope mount for the model 105 Buck, the thread is HERE. My Buck has been modified to shoot well over 400 fps, but the stock rear sight leaves much to be desired. It’s the type that is the top part of the spring anchor so is totally non-adjustable. I mounted a combo vee/peep sight from the current production Daisy No. 25 on it and it worked okay but elevation adjustment has to be done by adding/subtracting shims, so it’s not as user friendly as I would like.
Anyway, I received the rail the other day and just finished mounting it. To mount it, the rail is slid onto the existing rear sight/spring anchor and the other end is held by the top stock screw. It went on super easy and it is very secure- no movement at all. It’s a picatinny rail and all I have close by is a Weaver 4 moa red dot. I’ve had good results using it on other guns in the past so hopefully it’ll do well on the Buck, too. Its dark out so testing will commence tomorrow. Actually, this rail can be used on any Daisy except the wide frame guns by replacing the stock low profile spring anchor with one like the Buck uses. Unfortunately Daisy doesn't sell that type of spring anchor separately.
I also have an under-barrel rail made by the same company that fits the Red Ryder’s magazine tube. It’s a sturdy part, also made by 3D printing like the rail. I ordered a small flashlight and mount to attach the light to the rail. I am still waiting for them to arrive. I bought them from FastTech, they have great prices and free shipping but unless you opt for expedited $hipping (which I rarely do), the orders come from China on a slow boat.
The mounted red dot is below.
Anyway, I received the rail the other day and just finished mounting it. To mount it, the rail is slid onto the existing rear sight/spring anchor and the other end is held by the top stock screw. It went on super easy and it is very secure- no movement at all. It’s a picatinny rail and all I have close by is a Weaver 4 moa red dot. I’ve had good results using it on other guns in the past so hopefully it’ll do well on the Buck, too. Its dark out so testing will commence tomorrow. Actually, this rail can be used on any Daisy except the wide frame guns by replacing the stock low profile spring anchor with one like the Buck uses. Unfortunately Daisy doesn't sell that type of spring anchor separately.
I also have an under-barrel rail made by the same company that fits the Red Ryder’s magazine tube. It’s a sturdy part, also made by 3D printing like the rail. I ordered a small flashlight and mount to attach the light to the rail. I am still waiting for them to arrive. I bought them from FastTech, they have great prices and free shipping but unless you opt for expedited $hipping (which I rarely do), the orders come from China on a slow boat.
The mounted red dot is below.
It's now confirmed that the #25 does not like a spring spacer. If you do decide to try? Anything over half inch will not let the rifle fully cock. Also be careful no to let the legs buckle
. On the plus side I now have a 7/64 air tube ready for my 105
. On the plus side I now have a 7/64 air tube ready for my 105Thanks Tom, I'll make a note of that. I recall back when I bought a new No. 25 at WM, I tried to add some preload and wasn't happy with the results and also remember the legs wanting to distort/buckle, although they didn't actually become unusable thankfully.
I think if I were going to try again to get more fps out of a 25, I'd drill out an air tube and cut down a 1938B Red Ryder spring to the same length as the stock 25 spring. The '38B has 0.004" thicker wire.
I think if I were going to try again to get more fps out of a 25, I'd drill out an air tube and cut down a 1938B Red Ryder spring to the same length as the stock 25 spring. The '38B has 0.004" thicker wire.
Well today I recieved my ebay daisy 1105. First thing I did was shoot it. It was pathetic. So I tore it down and everything was in really good shape with little to no wear. The bb gun still has the original instruction decal and daisy seal on cocking lever. Whatever grease they used kept the seals in really good shape. after I cleaned the goo out of it I shot it for awhile. I decided to swap in my airtube from my model 25. I already drilled this airtube to 7/64. This made a decent difference in power. The new style air tube is shorter then the older ones but it still functions fine. It was tested with stock off and trigger out . The next thing I did was shoot it with the model 25 50rd shot tube. In previous posts on this forum it was clear that it helps improve power and that was immediately noticed on this 1105. I was thinking about it and was wondering how much velocity I could add by making it a leak free muzzle loader. So I decided to modify my broken model 25 shot tube. First thing I did was disassemble the shot tube. After I had it apart I started working on the two aluminum halfs. I removed the barel stop material so the barrel seats all the way back not allowing for BBs to feed. I then used a small punch to drive out the magnet. Using the magnet hole as a guide I marked the barrel and then drilled a hole so the magnet can still be used to hold the BB in place. After that I cut the barrel down to match the length of the 1105. The BB part of the shot tube was cut down a 1/4 shorter then the barrel and a new hole drilled for roll pin. Well what I have now is a muzzle feed- 7/64 airtube 1105. The result from the muzzle loader barrel conversion and airtube is a strong Little daisy that cocks with ease and takes out cans at 60'.
The same guy that I mentioned here earlier who came up with a bipod and a picatinny rail that fits the Daisy Buck (Tom Gaylord reviewed them HERE), also makes an under-barrel rail to mount a bipod, flashlight, laser, or whatever. His site is HERE.
I mounted a light to one of my kickaround modified Red Ryders for chasing pests off at night. The gun ain't a looker but it's a hammer for a Daisy BB gun. The light is In a quick detach scope ring so it mounts/dismounts in a flash. I also used one of the under-barrel rails in place of an Intermount to mount a foregrip to my Crosman 2400KT. It is much more secure than the small mounting area of the Intermount and won't mar the bluing the way the aluminum mount will.
I mounted a light to one of my kickaround modified Red Ryders for chasing pests off at night. The gun ain't a looker but it's a hammer for a Daisy BB gun. The light is In a quick detach scope ring so it mounts/dismounts in a flash. I also used one of the under-barrel rails in place of an Intermount to mount a foregrip to my Crosman 2400KT. It is much more secure than the small mounting area of the Intermount and won't mar the bluing the way the aluminum mount will.
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Tomahawk674
Member
Hello everyone, I discovered this thread and am trying to read the 43 pages. It's a lot! I recently put a privacy fence and have been getting back into air gunning. I have a hypothetical question:
In smoothbore flintlocks accuracy and MV are increased by a tight fitting ball to the barrel. I read an article that stated the principle also applied to smoothbore bb guns. An option was to use lead shot that was larger than the regular steel bbs. If one wanted to keep using regular steel bbs, can anything be done to "tighten" the bore? maybe coat the inside of the bore with something like wax or grease?
I don't have a daisy to play with quite yet, but I'm assuming that bbs just roll in and out of the barrel, so there's a minute gap were air could be blowing by. Would welcome some feedback on the topic.
In smoothbore flintlocks accuracy and MV are increased by a tight fitting ball to the barrel. I read an article that stated the principle also applied to smoothbore bb guns. An option was to use lead shot that was larger than the regular steel bbs. If one wanted to keep using regular steel bbs, can anything be done to "tighten" the bore? maybe coat the inside of the bore with something like wax or grease?
I don't have a daisy to play with quite yet, but I'm assuming that bbs just roll in and out of the barrel, so there's a minute gap were air could be blowing by. Would welcome some feedback on the topic.
The air tube seems to physically hit the BB up to 40 - 50 FPS before the blast of air takes over. The bore would have to be loose enough for the BB to still freely pass so it doesn't beat up the air tube. It has been proven that the model 25 spring feed is more efficient then the gravity feed. And I think the reason was due to the feed ports smaller diameter mixed with the spring tension helped keep the air moving forward. That's why I made a muzzle feed barrel to see how much of a difference it makes. And it really did make a big difference. It made my 30+ 1105 daisy a strong shooter without added spring tension. Maybe a little tissue packing in the barrel would help?
Also my sons new 105b with the rear spring removed from triger is really accurate for a BB gun that cost 17 bucks. I thing anything you can do to help minimize the trigger presure and spring thud in the little rifle helps the shooter to do his part.
Welcome aboard!
You are right that a better fit between the bore and BB helps accuracy and MV. A couple ideas to improve the fit have been mentioned. There was plating the bore with nickle which no one here has reported doing, and choking the barrel which is found in some production airguns as well as having been done elsewhere by hobbyists to improve their unchoked barrels.
Then there's the option of replacing the barrel with one having a tighter bore. That's been done here and was spearheaded by a member, hinz57, using a Daisy model 499B shot tube. Hinz also went a step further and bought a Lothar Walther smoothbore barrel that is choked. Using that, along with various other custom parts allowed his gun to reach the highest MV seen so far. The project was interrupted by his area being flooded, so no formal accuracy testing was done with that gun but hopefully he will be able to get back to it soon. We all miss him being here!
But there's an easier way than modifying or replacing barrels and that is to use larger diameter BBs! One type that has proven to be a better fit is the Daisy Match Grade Avanti Precision Ground Shot. The other is Marksman Premium Grade Steel BBs but they're quite a bit larger than ordinary BBs so the fit has to be verified before using them, else a jammed shot tube could result. All this has been covered in various posts that you may not have gotten to yet so my best advice is to keep reading. I know the thread is long but at least this way everything is in one location rather than dozens of separate threads.
ETA- Regarding larger diameter lead shot, to the best of my knowledge all the currently available ".177" lead shot is about the same diameter as most ordinary steel shot. Which is to say there's no advantage in shot-to-barrel fit using lead shot. If you know for sure there's a brand of lead shot that's larger than mainstream steel BBs, let us know.
Also lead shot will obviously be considerably heavier (weights shown below) than steel which is around 5.3 gr. average. The heavier shot will limit range and MV. (As a comparison, the larger diameter Marksman steel BBs weighed 5.74 gr. average and the Daisy Avanti Precision Ground steel Shot are 5.45 gr. average on my scale.)
Then there's cost. The following is from my notes. I'm not sure if this was from the manufacturer's advertising or was measured by an individual- my fault for not noting which it is but I'll check later at Pyramyd to see if they have the same info. But if I saved it, at the time I thought it was accurate .
LEAD SHOT VS DAISY STANDARD ZINC
Gamo .177 Cal, 8.2 Grains, Round Lead Balls, 250ct, ~$4.00 / 1.6¢ per round
13.3 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.50mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $15.25 / 3¢ per round
25 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177 Cal, 4.54mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $19.95 / 4¢ per round
33 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Excite Smart Shot BB, .177 Cal, 7.4 grains, copper plated lead, 150ct to 1500ct / 1.3¢ to 2.7¢ per round, depending on quantity
11 to 23 x more than standard Daisy BB
You are right that a better fit between the bore and BB helps accuracy and MV. A couple ideas to improve the fit have been mentioned. There was plating the bore with nickle which no one here has reported doing, and choking the barrel which is found in some production airguns as well as having been done elsewhere by hobbyists to improve their unchoked barrels.
Then there's the option of replacing the barrel with one having a tighter bore. That's been done here and was spearheaded by a member, hinz57, using a Daisy model 499B shot tube. Hinz also went a step further and bought a Lothar Walther smoothbore barrel that is choked. Using that, along with various other custom parts allowed his gun to reach the highest MV seen so far. The project was interrupted by his area being flooded, so no formal accuracy testing was done with that gun but hopefully he will be able to get back to it soon. We all miss him being here!
But there's an easier way than modifying or replacing barrels and that is to use larger diameter BBs! One type that has proven to be a better fit is the Daisy Match Grade Avanti Precision Ground Shot. The other is Marksman Premium Grade Steel BBs but they're quite a bit larger than ordinary BBs so the fit has to be verified before using them, else a jammed shot tube could result. All this has been covered in various posts that you may not have gotten to yet so my best advice is to keep reading. I know the thread is long but at least this way everything is in one location rather than dozens of separate threads.
ETA- Regarding larger diameter lead shot, to the best of my knowledge all the currently available ".177" lead shot is about the same diameter as most ordinary steel shot. Which is to say there's no advantage in shot-to-barrel fit using lead shot. If you know for sure there's a brand of lead shot that's larger than mainstream steel BBs, let us know.
Also lead shot will obviously be considerably heavier (weights shown below) than steel which is around 5.3 gr. average. The heavier shot will limit range and MV. (As a comparison, the larger diameter Marksman steel BBs weighed 5.74 gr. average and the Daisy Avanti Precision Ground steel Shot are 5.45 gr. average on my scale.)
Then there's cost. The following is from my notes. I'm not sure if this was from the manufacturer's advertising or was measured by an individual- my fault for not noting which it is but I'll check later at Pyramyd to see if they have the same info. But if I saved it, at the time I thought it was accurate .
LEAD SHOT VS DAISY STANDARD ZINC
Gamo .177 Cal, 8.2 Grains, Round Lead Balls, 250ct, ~$4.00 / 1.6¢ per round
13.3 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.50mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $15.25 / 3¢ per round
25 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177 Cal, 4.54mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $19.95 / 4¢ per round
33 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Excite Smart Shot BB, .177 Cal, 7.4 grains, copper plated lead, 150ct to 1500ct / 1.3¢ to 2.7¢ per round, depending on quantity
11 to 23 x more than standard Daisy BB
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Cvans
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
- Messages
- 463
Toward the end of last week I received the 499 back from Shane Bruce. I have to say that working with him was a real pleasure. I just hope he feels the same way about our transaction after all my questions. He really goes out of his way to meet your expectations when making a stock. Mine turned out just the way I hoped it would. I'm very pleased with the weight and feel of the gun. It's going to be much easier to shoot now. What I was trying for was something that looked like a well cared for vintage gun that fit a larger person. I'm 6'2" and 225 lbs. I think he nailed it perfectly. If your interested in dressing up your guns I wouldn't hesitate to contact Shane.
Sorry for the blurry photo. Looks like it's time for a new camera.
Sorry for the blurry photo. Looks like it's time for a new camera.
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Dayum! Now you're talking!! It kind of reminds me of the big game single big bore rifles like used on the Dark Continent back in the day. I really like the 3 star straight lever- it's my personal all-time favorite Daisy lever. The proportions of the forearm to the extended barrel is spot-on, too.
Cvans
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
- Messages
- 463
I asked that he bore a couple of holes in the butt stock so I could add weight which he did. Haven't had time to spend with the gun since getting it back so I don't know yet how much or what I'll be using. Haven't weighed it since putting it back together but is definitely heavier than before.
Funny thing is the scope no longer looks too large for the gun.
Funny thing is the scope no longer looks too large for the gun.
Wow, extremely nice. Well done.
