recoil springs

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I want a stronger recoil spring for my Kimber long slide target in 10 mm, they have got to make them. but every thing I can find is for a shorter gun or I am not sure it will fit my 6 in barrel. I shot some 800x- 9.7 gr in it and it kind of beat it up. I smoothed it up and put a new 18-1/2 lb spring in it, but I am carrying it black bear hunting behind hounds. and I would like to shoot loads I have a lot of faith in oo and I am using 180 gr bullets. all advice greatly appraciated
 
I want a stronger recoil spring for my Kimber long slide target in 10 mm, they have got to make them. but every thing I can find is for a shorter gun or I am not sure it will fit my 6 in barrel... I smoothed it up and put a new 18-1/2 lb spring in it

Where did you get the 18-1/2# spring that you have now?

Couple ways to deal with this.

One - You can get a custom recoil spring plug from EGW that allows springs for a 5" gun to be used in a long slide. Here's a couple links to those. Blue for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue/ And stainless for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss/
Blue for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
And stainless for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
There are many options in 5" recoil springs from 5# up through 24#.

Two - Wolff makes springs for long slide guns, but they do not list a weight, so you will have to experiment or find a way to measure the spring weight. You can do a search and find various home brew spring weight measuring devices that folks have made. The springs are listed part way down the page here - https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911 GOV'T PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1

I do not recommend using heavier than 20# spring in the gun as that beats up the slide stop pin and lower barrel lugs on slide closing. The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

A far better way to approach this (and make an improvement in your gun at the same time) is to purchase a flat bottom firing pin stop from EGW and fit it to your gun. A little file work is all that is needed to get a snug fit. Kimber makes a good gun, but they cut some corners. The factory firing pin stops are incorrect as they are cut for the Series 80 Colt safety (Kimber's safety is a Swartz) and leaves a gap which can trap the tip of the safety plunger and shear it off during assembly/disassembly rendering the gun unshootable. Here's a link to the page - http://www.egwguns.com/9mm/.38-super/.40-s-w/10mm-firing-pin-stops/ You will want the one marked Series 70. There are 4 listed - standard profile or with the top trimmed to clear low mount adjustable sights, and either type in blue or stainless. I recommend the blue as it seems to be more durable for firing pin stops. Fit that to your gun and you can use a lighter weight recoil spring (whether 5" with the custom plug or 6") than you can otherwise use. At the same time replace the mainspring with a heavier unit. Standard is 23#. Extra power goes from 25# - 34#. I would start with a 26# or 28#. No need to go higher.
 
Where did you get the 18-1/2# spring that you have now? I got a 3 pack from Kimber. thank you very much for your reply. I will follow it. thanks again

Couple ways to deal with this.

One - You can get a custom recoil spring plug from EGW that allows springs for a 5" gun to be used in a long slide. Here's a couple links to those. Blue for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue/ And stainless for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss/
Blue for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
And stainless for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
There are many options in 5" recoil springs from 5# up through 24#.

Two - Wolff makes springs for long slide guns, but they do not list a weight, so you will have to experiment or find a way to measure the spring weight. You can do a search and find various home brew spring weight measuring devices that folks have made. The springs are listed part way down the page here - https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911 GOV'T PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1

I do not recommend using heavier than 20# spring in the gun as that beats up the slide stop pin and lower barrel lugs on slide closing. The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

A far better way to approach this (and make an improvement in your gun at the same time) is to purchase a flat bottom firing pin stop from EGW and fit it to your gun. A little file work is all that is needed to get a snug fit. Kimber makes a good gun, but they cut some corners. The factory firing pin stops are incorrect as they are cut for the Series 80 Colt safety (Kimber's safety is a Swartz) and leaves a gap which can trap the tip of the safety plunger and shear it off during assembly/disassembly rendering the gun unshootable. Here's a link to the page - http://www.egwguns.com/9mm/.38-super/.40-s-w/10mm-firing-pin-stops/ You will want the one marked Series 70. There are 4 listed - standard profile or with the top trimmed to clear low mount adjustable sights, and either type in blue or stainless. I recommend the blue as it seems to be more durable for firing pin stops. Fit that to your gun and you can use a lighter weight recoil spring (whether 5" with the custom plug or 6") than you can otherwise use. At the same time replace the mainspring with a heavier unit. Standard is 23#. Extra power goes from 25# - 34#. I would start with a 26# or 28#. No need to go higher.
 
Where did you get the 18-1/2# spring that you have now?

Couple ways to deal with this.

One - You can get a custom recoil spring plug from EGW that allows springs for a 5" gun to be used in a long slide. Here's a couple links to those. Blue for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue/ And stainless for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss/
Blue for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
And stainless for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
There are many options in 5" recoil springs from 5# up through 24#.

Two - Wolff makes springs for long slide guns, but they do not list a weight, so you will have to experiment or find a way to measure the spring weight. You can do a search and find various home brew spring weight measuring devices that folks have made. The springs are listed part way down the page here - https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911 GOV'T PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1

I do not recommend using heavier than 20# spring in the gun as that beats up the slide stop pin and lower barrel lugs on slide closing. The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

A far better way to approach this (and make an improvement in your gun at the same time) is to purchase a flat bottom firing pin stop from EGW and fit it to your gun. A little file work is all that is needed to get a snug fit. Kimber makes a good gun, but they cut some corners. The factory firing pin stops are incorrect as they are cut for the Series 80 Colt safety (Kimber's safety is a Swartz) and leaves a gap which can trap the tip of the safety plunger and shear it off during assembly/disassembly rendering the gun unshootable. Here's a link to the page - http://www.egwguns.com/9mm/.38-super/.40-s-w/10mm-firing-pin-stops/ You will want the one marked Series 70. There are 4 listed - standard profile or with the top trimmed to clear low mount adjustable sights, and either type in blue or stainless. I recommend the blue as it seems to be more durable for firing pin stops. Fit that to your gun and you can use a lighter weight recoil spring (whether 5" with the custom plug or 6") than you can otherwise use. At the same time replace the mainspring with a heavier unit. Standard is 23#. Extra power goes from 25# - 34#. I would start with a 26# or 28#. No need to go higher.
I ordered the firing pin stop, the blue was out of stock so I went ahead and bought the one for #70 ss with the top trimmed to clear adj sights!!! but no luck on finding the extra power main spring
 
I ordered the firing pin stop, the blue was out of stock so I went ahead and bought the one for #70 ss with the top trimmed to clear adj sights!!!

I may have not given you enough information. The ones with the top trimmed are for guns that have low mount adjustable sights with the sight "buried" in a pocket at the rear of the slide. They sit low enough to interfere with the firing pin stop, resulting in the stop being trimmed on top. Some adjustable sights do not sit that low and do not require the trimmed stop. A photo of the back of your gun or link to a photo of one like it will tell the tale.
 
The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

This is true. @BBBBill is giving you the correct solution. Flat bottom FPS and 23lb hammer spring. Standard weight recoil spring. Try that out. If you need more recoil relief, try a 25lb hammer spring.
Hope it works out for you!
 
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/probelms-with-10mm-colt.858568/

I am just looking for information. I have a pretty new 10 mm in a what I think is a nice 1911, been shot about 60 to 80 times. I reloaded some with 800x 9.7g 185g bullet. I had one jam up till I shot about 10 of these. now it Jams every shot. no matter what I shoot in it. Winchester target loads to win defender at 1240 vel what could I have possible done to it, I have cleaned it smoothed some burrs off all to no avile. :thumbdown:

What is the bullet? 185 or 180? What data are you using that has 9.7 gr of 800X?

I would want the gun to* fire factory ammo correctly, before rebuilding it. Good luck.:)
 
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I may have not given you enough information. The ones with the top trimmed are for guns that have low mount adjustable sights with the sight "buried" in a pocket at the rear of the slide. They sit low enough to interfere with the firing pin stop, resulting in the stop being trimmed on top. Some adjustable sights do not sit that low and do not require the trimmed stop. A photo of the back of your gun or link to a photo of one like it will tell the tale.
I do not know how to link it but it is a Kimber ss long slide target in 10 mm I bought it from buds gun shop and they are easy to find a photo of. thanks for all your help
 
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/probelms-with-10mm-colt.858568/

THESE LOADS ARE OVER MAX AND I OR ANY ONE ELSE DOES NOT RECCOMEND THEM, SOME ARE WAY OVER

What is the bullet? 185 or 180? What data are you using that has 9.7 gr of 800X?

I would want the gun tom fire factory ammo correctly, before rebuilding it. Good luck.:)
180 gr. I would have to go back and look but seems like I may have said 185. sorry/ info from the reloading thread on this site I belive 800x load #1-8.6=1,167 fps load #2 9.7 gr=1,320 fps @34,200 psi load#310.6@ 1,396 fps. I am happy with 9.6 or 9.7 if I can get the gun to handle it well, I don't plane on going over 9.7. the max chamber psi for the 10 mm is 37,500. I don't plan on going over the 34.200
 
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Where did you get the 18-1/2# spring that you have now?
I am kind of learning these long slides as I go, I bought the long nose-6- spring plug got it to day and surprise!! the gun comes new with one in them. which means that springs for a 5 in barrel will work in them, that might save some one eles a bit of time and trouble. I love learning, and I love these long slides, thank you
Couple ways to deal with this.

One - You can get a custom recoil spring plug from EGW that allows springs for a 5" gun to be used in a long slide. Here's a couple links to those. Blue for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue/ And stainless for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss/
Blue for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
And stainless for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
There are many options in 5" recoil springs from 5# up through 24#.

Two - Wolff makes springs for long slide guns, but they do not list a weight, so you will have to experiment or find a way to measure the spring weight. You can do a search and find various home brew spring weight measuring devices that folks have made. The springs are listed part way down the page here - https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911 GOV'T PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1

I do not recommend using heavier than 20# spring in the gun as that beats up the slide stop pin and lower barrel lugs on slide closing. The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

A far better way to approach this (and make an improvement in your gun at the same time) is to purchase a flat bottom firing pin stop from EGW and fit it to your gun. A little file work is all that is needed to get a snug fit. Kimber makes a good gun, but they cut some corners. The factory firing pin stops are incorrect as they are cut for the Series 80 Colt safety (Kimber's safety is a Swartz) and leaves a gap which can trap the tip of the safety plunger and shear it off during assembly/disassembly rendering the gun unshootable. Here's a link to the page - http://www.egwguns.com/9mm/.38-super/.40-s-w/10mm-firing-pin-stops/ You will want the one marked Series 70. There are 4 listed - standard profile or with the top trimmed to clear low mount adjustable sights, and either type in blue or stainless. I recommend the blue as it seems to be more durable for firing pin stops. Fit that to your gun and you can use a lighter weight recoil spring (whether 5" with the custom plug or 6") than you can otherwise use. At the same time replace the mainspring with a heavier unit. Standard is 23#. Extra power goes from 25# - 34#. I would start with a 26# or 28#. No need to go higher.
 
^^^^This^^^^
if I can get it to shoot these reloads well I will be happy. I have several others to punch holes in paper, I want me or my son to carry this bear hunting once in a while we get in a bad deal were the person who is supposed to shoot the bear, messes up bad, and we have to step in. I used to carry a 629 with an 8-3/8 barrel in 44 mag. but I am now 70 and it hurts my wrist. the 10 mm has enough power and does not hurt,
 
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I may have not given you enough information. The ones with the top trimmed are for guns that have low mount adjustable sights with the sight "buried" in a pocket at the rear of the slide. They sit low enough to interfere with the firing pin stop, resulting in the stop being trimmed on top. Some adjustable sights do not sit that low and do not require the trimmed stop. A photo of the back of your gun or link to a photo of one like it will tell the tale.
the sight is buried in a cut out at the rear of the slide. I belive we are right, if not I will order another. have a great day
 
on the firing pin stop do I need to file a radius on the bottom? or try just leave it 90* all I have to go by are the kimbers I have or the colt gold cup I have, all of them have a radius on the bottom. I know it sounds kind of dumb, if I need to file the new one to be a match of the old one, why change it?
 
on the firing pin stop do I need to file a radius on the bottom? or try just leave it 90* all I have to go by are the kimbers I have or the colt gold cup I have, all of them have a radius on the bottom. I know it sounds kind of dumb, if I need to file the new one to be a match of the old one, why change it?
Do NOT file a radius on the bottom of the flat-bottom firing pin stop! You just break the edge that contacts the hammer. I'll add a link to a thread that gives the procedure.

Here's a link to one discussion:
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-719278.html

I'll try to find the other one, too.
Edit:
Here's the other one--it's a long thread but worth your time if this mod interests you
http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.p...with-a-simple-part-change-EGW-firing-pin-stop
 
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on the firing pin stop do I need to file a radius on the bottom? or try just leave it 90* all I have to go by are the kimbers I have or the colt gold cup I have, all of them have a radius on the bottom. I know it sounds kind of dumb, if I need to file the new one to be a match of the old one, why change it?

No. The whole reason for having it is to slow the slide opening. The squared bottom moves the contact point down closer to the pivot point of the hammer, reducing the slide's leverage and thereby slowing the slide opening. As noted, just break the edge. You can add a little more late if needed to tune it to your preference. The square bottom stop will allow you to use a lighter (closer to standard) weight recoil spring which will reduce pounding on your frame and slide stop pin.

The original stops had a smaller radius than those currently produced. It was changed for the benefit of the horse mounted cavalry soldiers who were using the gun with one hand.
 
Do NOT file a radius on the bottom of the flat-bottom firing pin stop! You just break the edge that contacts the hammer. I'll add a link to a thread that gives the procedure.

Here's a link to one discussion:
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-719278.html

I'll try to find the other one, too.
Edit:
Here's the other one--it's a long thread but worth your time if this mod interests you
http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.p...with-a-simple-part-change-EGW-firing-pin-stop
thank you very much, I hate to sound dumb but I am new to 1911, always had revolvers. again thank you
 
thank you very much, I hate to sound dumb but I am new to 1911, always had revolvers. again thank you

Not dumb. Ask all the questions you want. You'll learn a lot and be better for it. The guys on THR enjoy helping you out!
 
thank you very much, I hate to sound dumb but I am new to 1911, always had revolvers. again thank you
Not dumb. Ask all the questions you want. You'll learn a lot and be better for it. The guys on THR enjoy helping you out!
^^^ What he said. No dumb questions. If you don't know and want to learn someone here will step up.
 
Where did you get the 18-1/2# spring that you have now?

Couple ways to deal with this.

One - You can get a custom recoil spring plug from EGW that allows springs for a 5" gun to be used in a long slide. Here's a couple links to those. Blue for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue/ And stainless for standard guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss/
Blue for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-blue-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
And stainless for full length guide rod - http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/long-nose-6-spring-plug-ss-with-.332-hole-for-6-guide-rods/
There are many options in 5" recoil springs from 5# up through 24#.

Two - Wolff makes springs for long slide guns, but they do not list a weight, so you will have to experiment or find a way to measure the spring weight. You can do a search and find various home brew spring weight measuring devices that folks have made. The springs are listed part way down the page here - https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911 GOV'T PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1

I do not recommend using heavier than 20# spring in the gun as that beats up the slide stop pin and lower barrel lugs on slide closing. The recoil spring's primary purpose is NOT recoil mitigation, but rather feeding the next round out of the magazine into the chamber.

A far better way to approach this (and make an improvement in your gun at the same time) is to purchase a flat bottom firing pin stop from EGW and fit it to your gun. A little file work is all that is needed to get a snug fit. Kimber makes a good gun, but they cut some corners. The factory firing pin stops are incorrect as they are cut for the Series 80 Colt safety (Kimber's safety is a Swartz) and leaves a gap which can trap the tip of the safety plunger and shear it off during assembly/disassembly rendering the gun unshootable. Here's a link to the page - http://www.egwguns.com/9mm/.38-super/.40-s-w/10mm-firing-pin-stops/ You will want the one marked Series 70. There are 4 listed - standard profile or with the top trimmed to clear low mount adjustable sights, and either type in blue or stainless. I recommend the blue as it seems to be more durable for firing pin stops. Fit that to your gun and you can use a lighter weight recoil spring (whether 5" with the custom plug or 6") than you can otherwise use. At the same time replace the mainspring with a heavier unit. Standard is 23#. Extra power goes from 25# - 34#. I would start with a 26# or 28#. No need to go higher.
I understand a little more now, I ran in to recoil trouble before I did pressure trouble!!!
 
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