Refinishing

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rc109a

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Ok, I was going to do my rifles in a camo pattern, but I really wanted something durable, but was unable to find somethign that worked with plastic as well as metal (to include optics). The most durable ones I foudn requried baking in an oven. That rules out optics (I cannot even imagine what my acog would look like). I have an upper and lower that do not match (one is park and I believe the other has an epoxy finish, both are spikes). Instead I decided to do the upper, lower and barrel in one color. I am down to either Gunkote or Brownells Teflon/Moly. I am using an airbrush to apply. The questions I have is:

1. Should I sandblast both parts?
2. If so what type of media?
3. Will I have problems if I decide to put a camo pattern over top with a differnt type of paint if I use the Teflon/Moly as the base color?
4. Which one is easier and more forgiving to apply?

I am really having a tough time deciding on the paint. Since I am still waiting on the barrel I thought I would take care of the lower and upper now since they are both stripped. Any ideas?
 
Is duracoat as durable as the other two products? How does it react to powder blast cleaner? I also have been reading of issues mixing the two parts. It just seems like the gunkote or teflon/moly would be more forgiving even though you have to bake. I looked at alumihyde, but it appears to be hit and miss. It also does not come in that many colors for spraying.
 
Duracoat is not nearly as durable as a thermal cured finish. People who tell you that it is have not used one of the thermal cured products available. Duracoat can take up to 3-5 weeks to fully air cure. While with a thermal cured product, you bake it item for roughly an hour and it's ready to be used right away.

The big plus with Duracoat is that they offer a ton of colors and you can do camo patterns with the product because it does not require baking. KG Gunkote offers quite a few color options as well.

I use KG Gunkote and Norrell's Moly Resin...it's been said that it's the same product. The key to any good finish is to spend the time and prep the parts correctly.

Cerakote is also suppose to be very good, even though I have no personal experience with that product.

To me, Duracoat is very expensive Krylon. I see that Duracoat offers a "durabake" product, which I would think would be more durable compared to the standard Duracoat.
 
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