i want to start reloading 9mm and wanted to know how much it would cost per 100,what is a good reloader and what i would need to get started reloading
reloding:getting started
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Kevin Rohrer
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redneck2
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This might help too. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=335444 If you have any questions after reading, we'll be happy to help.
Generally you'll pay about 1/3 to 2/3 the cost of factory ammo, sometimes less by reloading.
Generally you'll pay about 1/3 to 2/3 the cost of factory ammo, sometimes less by reloading.
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There are a lot of threads on the subject but I'm going to at least start to answer your question.
Components are definately cheaper the larger quantity you buy. I would suggest buying powder and primers at a local GS and save the haz-mat charges.
As to press, I would strongly suggest a Dillon Square Deal B press if you aren't interested in loading rifle ammo. Many will tell you to start on a single stage but that isn't true. Unless you are totally devoid of any mechanical ability and illiterate, if you read the directions and pay attention to them, a progressive press is fairly easy to set up and load on. If you're only going to load 9mm you can't do better than the SDB. It comes with dies and regulated at the factory before it is shipped. The only thing you have to do when you get it is set it up, regulate the powder system depending on which powder and load you choose. Check the seating die for correct COAL and fill the priming assembly. Then start feeding the brass and pulling the handle. It may not be quite that simple, but almost.
Buy 1000 bullets from some reputable company (Berry's, Montana Gold, Precision Delta, or others) and get 1000 Winchester, CCI, or Remington small pistol primers, and a pound of which ever powder you choose to use. I would suggest starting with Unique, WSF, or 231. You will need a primer flip tray, caliper, a tumbler or some way to clean your dirty cases, a bullet puller, some type of scale to measure the powder(mechanical beam or electronic), and a few other assorted things you will pick up along the way. You will also need at least two loading reference books. You can go with lead or plated bullets if all you're going to do is punch paper. They are generally cheaper than the jacketed version. You'll also need some brass to load.
You may have already heard but even though the ammo you load yourself is cheaper than factory, you won't save a dime. The more you load, the more you shoot, and the cycle continues. I used to go to the range and shoot my box of store-bought ammo and go home. Now I go to the range and shoot until I get tired. I rarely ever go with less than 1000 rounds of a chosen caliber. That doesn't mean I shoot that much but I take it anyway and then go home and load 'em up again for the next time.
Good luck getting started. Some folks load to shoot and some shoot to load. It is a very interesting hobby.
Components are definately cheaper the larger quantity you buy. I would suggest buying powder and primers at a local GS and save the haz-mat charges.
As to press, I would strongly suggest a Dillon Square Deal B press if you aren't interested in loading rifle ammo. Many will tell you to start on a single stage but that isn't true. Unless you are totally devoid of any mechanical ability and illiterate, if you read the directions and pay attention to them, a progressive press is fairly easy to set up and load on. If you're only going to load 9mm you can't do better than the SDB. It comes with dies and regulated at the factory before it is shipped. The only thing you have to do when you get it is set it up, regulate the powder system depending on which powder and load you choose. Check the seating die for correct COAL and fill the priming assembly. Then start feeding the brass and pulling the handle. It may not be quite that simple, but almost.
Buy 1000 bullets from some reputable company (Berry's, Montana Gold, Precision Delta, or others) and get 1000 Winchester, CCI, or Remington small pistol primers, and a pound of which ever powder you choose to use. I would suggest starting with Unique, WSF, or 231. You will need a primer flip tray, caliper, a tumbler or some way to clean your dirty cases, a bullet puller, some type of scale to measure the powder(mechanical beam or electronic), and a few other assorted things you will pick up along the way. You will also need at least two loading reference books. You can go with lead or plated bullets if all you're going to do is punch paper. They are generally cheaper than the jacketed version. You'll also need some brass to load.
You may have already heard but even though the ammo you load yourself is cheaper than factory, you won't save a dime. The more you load, the more you shoot, and the cycle continues. I used to go to the range and shoot my box of store-bought ammo and go home. Now I go to the range and shoot until I get tired. I rarely ever go with less than 1000 rounds of a chosen caliber. That doesn't mean I shoot that much but I take it anyway and then go home and load 'em up again for the next time.
Good luck getting started. Some folks load to shoot and some shoot to load. It is a very interesting hobby.
LiveLife
Member
I use this reloading calculator to help figure out cost (I reuse range brass so I normally don't factor in the cost of brass). Here is one example for low cost yet accurate range practice loads that are more accurate than factory ammunition:1911crazy said:
115/124 gr RN Bullet - $79-$83/1000 X-Treme plated from TJ Coneveras (Free shipping) or $76-$79/1000 FMJ Precision Delta with free shipping (but you must buy 2000)
~ 4.8/4.3 gr HP-38 (depends on bullet weight) - $110/8 lbs + HazMat/shipping from Powder Valley
Small pistol primer - $25/1000 for Winchester (My personal favorite), $24/1000 for CCI or $20/1000 for Tula + HazMat/shipping from Powder Valley (buy 5000 and spread the HazMat cost to $5/1000 and more if combined with powder purchase)
Factoring shipping cost, this example would come out under $11.50-$12/100 depending on which bullet/powder/primer combination you used.
Any O-ring type single stage press (Lee, RCBS, Hornady, etc.). If you want to load multiple calibers, Lee Classic Turret press allows presetting of dies on 4-station turrets that can swap out quickly without having to unscrew/screw dies - It also allows you to load in single stage or faster turret mode.
- Reloading manual (Lyman #49, etc.)
- Components: Brass, bullets, primers, powder
- Press
- Dies (I recommend Lee carbide die set)
- Hand primer and/or press mounted priming tool
- Scale (I recommend RCBS 5-0-5 or Dillon Eliminator and check weights)
- Caliper
- Powder measure/funnel/reloading tray
- Tumbler (I recommend Cabela's/Berry's 400), tumbling media, media shifter, polish (I recommend NuFinish)
- Bullet puller (I recommend hammer type)
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oldreloader
Member
What bds said.You can trim a bit more by loading lead bullets. I get mine from Missouri Bullet Company.
Reloading Gettin Started
If you want t ohave a very good press consider the Lee Classic Turret Press & the Lee Auto Disk Pro Powder measure & the riser you can get it all new for under $250 if ya doin some surfing on the net & hunt up a good deal just my 2 cents worth. I may have a slightly older edition of the Lyman you are welcome too if i have one ill look & see i think it is the 48th if i have it
If you want t ohave a very good press consider the Lee Classic Turret Press & the Lee Auto Disk Pro Powder measure & the riser you can get it all new for under $250 if ya doin some surfing on the net & hunt up a good deal just my 2 cents worth. I may have a slightly older edition of the Lyman you are welcome too if i have one ill look & see i think it is the 48th if i have it
One small note on the search function. It is very handy but not Google. You have to do a little reading and digging but is worth a try. Before you dive into searching, look at the Sticky list at the top of each board. There is a lot of information there for a Noobe on the site and to reloading.
Another note: You will meet some of the nicest people here. For instance, Dave Wile, who I me here and have been taking pointers from. Of course there is bds and Walkalong along with remodel and whole group of very helpful folks.
Good luck and have fun.
Another note: You will meet some of the nicest people here. For instance, Dave Wile, who I me here and have been taking pointers from. Of course there is bds and Walkalong along with remodel and whole group of very helpful folks.
Good luck and have fun.
1911crazy All the suggestions are good & correct. I think experience is more important. If you can locate reloaders in your area. Most of them are helpful to share their knowledge or use of their equipment. Less strain on the billfold. I do not have an expensive scale and trickler. My friend does. I supply molds, swaging dies, info, linotype, lead, etc. A experienced loader in Opal, Va. got careless & died. Safety is a must. Have fun, tick magnet
single stage means that i reload one at a time correct? that is what i would like not necessarily because it is more affordable because it's kinda fun.i got the chance to reload shotgun shells once and it was pretty satisfying work. sides I've got plenty of time so reloading more than one at a time is not a concern.
Single stage means the press holds only one die, so you can only do one stage, or operation at a time. First resize/deprime all the cases, then change dies and move on to the next stage. I would recommend the Lee Turret because you can use it like a single stage when you want to by simply removing a part, or use the auto indexing feature to produce rounds more quickly.
You need to do a little homework first to get the basic concepts down -
You might benefit from watching the Lee videos showing how their different presses -single stage, turret, progressive - operate.
http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Help-Videos.html
You might benefit from watching the Lee videos showing how their different presses -single stage, turret, progressive - operate.
http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Help-Videos.html
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