Is there anyone who has any input on an issue I am having cold bluing? I have a Remington 760 bdl I am trying to cold blue, I am having good results with everything except the reciever. I realize cold bluing isn't necessarily the best option for redoing an entire gun but I am on a budget. I am using Birchwood Casey perma blue and the action tube/barrel seems to be taking it fine but when I try putting the bluing on the reciever it takes in some places but mostly just rolls off. Is it possible the reciever is a different metal that won't work with this? Any info would help.
Remington 760 BDL trouble cold bluing reciever
- Thread starter MDuquette
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Kp321
Member
You are right in saying that cold blue is not the best option but there are better cold blues than what you are using. Brownells Oxphoblue Creme is the best I have used in my 50 years of working on guns. Even then prep is everything. Your problems sound like poor degreasing. If the metal is not totally clean the blue will not take. Multiple passes with acetone and clean rags is a start, handle with clean cotton gloves between passes to keep skin oils off. There is always the possibility that the receiver has had a spray of silicone on it which is extremely hard to remove. A test of cleanliness is to wet the metal with water. The water should wet the surface evenly with absolutely no beading.
You don’t mention how you polished the metal. For cold blue, a high polish is not great, 240 grit is ideal or fine bead blast.
Warming the metal with a hair dryer until if is warm to the touch will also help the cold blue take.
Try again and let us know how it turns out.
If all else fails, look into Duracoat.
You don’t mention how you polished the metal. For cold blue, a high polish is not great, 240 grit is ideal or fine bead blast.
Warming the metal with a hair dryer until if is warm to the touch will also help the cold blue take.
Try again and let us know how it turns out.
If all else fails, look into Duracoat.
243winxb
Member
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/super-blue-liquid-gun-blue-3-oz.html May make a difference? Super Blue.
BBBBill
Member
Is your purpose to protect from rust or just make it look better than bare metal?
Cold bluing is not bluing. It is a chemical stain that provides zero passivation of the metal. Passivation is basically making the metal inert so that it is resistant to rust. Regular hot bluing and rust bluing are better by far, although still not very good at passivation. Rust blue seems to work better than hot bluing for passivation and is more durable than hot blue.
Cold bluing is not bluing. It is a chemical stain that provides zero passivation of the metal. Passivation is basically making the metal inert so that it is resistant to rust. Regular hot bluing and rust bluing are better by far, although still not very good at passivation. Rust blue seems to work better than hot bluing for passivation and is more durable than hot blue.
I used Birchwood casey blue amd rust remover and red scotch Brite pads to remove old bluing then sanded it with ithink 400 grit and 000 steel wool, then cleaned with acetone several times. Until rags I was using were clean. You could be onto something, when I rinse it off after coats of perma blue it seems like it beads up like your saying.
Although clean can’t be stressed enough as mentioned above, it is likely the receiver is a different steel than the rest of the rifle and will take the blue differently. I’ve seen hot salt’s blueing give a different color on the receiver. My 1898 Krag sporter is that way. Heat does help.
Kp321
Member
You mentioned using steel wool in the polish process. Unless you have carefully degreased the steel wool, it could be putting an oil film back on the clean steel.
Then there is always the possibility of silicone contamination I mentioned earlier.
Then there is always the possibility of silicone contamination I mentioned earlier.
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