Removing one lube and replace with another...

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Freedom_fighter_in_IL said:
Yes it's a THERMO plastic and much more resistant to the caustic chemical used in Brake clean than an ABS plastic.
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I'm not sure what class of chemical is in brake cleaner (the old school, good stuff was carbon tetrachloride), but I highly doubt it's a caustic. Caustics are highly corrosive.

Some brake cleaners will definitely eat some plastics, but I don't know which ones eat what. It would surely be nice if the cans were still labeled with their contents.
 
Only we took them in the shower and used whatever kind of bar soap we were showering with at the time.

Worked really great too, unless the drill instructor caught you doing it.
But they tended to look the other way so they wouldn't catch you.
They wanted us to pass inspection just as bad as we did if the truth be known.

rc
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Hey rc - My wife told me if she ever catches me in the shower with a weapon, then she'll be gone!!!! I don't think I'll test her today!!!!

HAHA

The Dove
 
The brake cleaners that are plastic eaters are the chlorinated kind. If you want to remove all the grease and oil from your gun than I would recommend a gun specific cleaner.

KG KG-3 Gun Cleaner-Degreaser

Slip 2000 725 Gun Cleaner-Degreaser

Remington Rem Action Gun Cleaner-Degreaser

Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber Synthetic Safe Cleaner

Remington Shotgun Cleaner Bore Cleaning Solvent

Winchester Gun Wash


Any of the above will do what you are asking. I would out of experience recommend Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber.
 
5 steps (a combination of a few posts above):

#1 Use WD-40 as the solvent (it's kerosene + naptha) for metal parts. Spray and brush as needed to get all the crud loose and to thin out whatever oil or grease is present.

#2 Hose off with water.

#3 Wash in HOT water with dawn dishwashing soap. (A trip thru the dishwasher would also work... for the gun, but I'd have to buy my wife a new dishwasher!)

#4 Dry (do not apply heat)

#5 Apply protectant
 
Be careful of the dishwasher if you're married. My wife once caught me with a load of wrenches and sockets in the dishwasher (seriously, best way to remove oil and grease).

Apparently, something I don't understand is gross about putting dirty/greasy things into a machine purposely designed to make them no longer dirty/greasy.

It works fantastically, but you want to remove them to air dry immediately upon completion of the wash cycle, to avoid rust. I don't see why steel gun parts would respond differently.
 
Be careful of the dishwasher if you're married. My wife once caught me with a load of wrenches and sockets in the dishwasher (seriously, best way to remove oil and grease).
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If she objects to that, simply use a roaster pan and wire rack on the stove to create a makeshift steam cleaner. Using the dishwasher won't seem so bad after that (or you'll find yourself single again and free to use the dishwasher anyway.)
 
btg3 said:
5 steps (a combination of a few posts above):

#1 Use WD-40 as the solvent (it's kerosene + naptha) for metal parts. Spray and brush as needed to get all the crud loose and to thin out whatever oil or grease is present.
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WD-40 turns gummy

#2 Hose off with water.
Click to expand...

WD-40 is not water soluable

#3 Wash in HOT water with dawn dishwashing soap. (A trip thru the dishwasher would also work... for the gun, but I'd have to buy my wife a new dishwasher!)
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Yes to the hot water & dish soap. Dish washer may be ok, but I'd rather do it by hand and have better control over the process than baby-sit the dishwashing machine and have rust start because I forgot

#4 Dry (do not apply heat)
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What's wrong with heat, especially if using water? Hot water, warm up the parts, use a blow dryer- all are good. I wouldn't use an open flame, however

#5 Apply protectant
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Yep

Seriously, you're over-thinking this. Just clean your weapon and re-lube with the new lubricant. Or just wipe down real good, then apply new lube
 
WD-40 is not water soluable
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A lot of people don't know that WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt". Neat, huh? That's why it's great for cleaning out a distributor cap after going through a mudhole when 4wheeling. :D:D:D

If you're wondering what your solvent of choice contains, google "[solvent name] MSDS" and you should find a list of all the fun chemicals it contains that Californians think cause cancer.
 
WD-40 is junk.
It does a lot of things, but it does them all poorly.

It displaces water, but not as well as a can of ether.

It is a penetrating oil, but not as good as a can of PB blaster.

It is cleaning solvent, but not as good as many others (just about anyones carb/brake cleaner)

I can't believe it's label claims it's a lubricant. Using it to lube your bike chain, or your car door hinges/latches is just a real good way to have to lube it again already tomorrow.

I do keep a can of WD40...in the tacklebox. Believe it or not, sometimes the fish will go nuts for that stuff.

I'm not saying I wouldn't clean my guns with WD40, but if I am, you can bet it means every other can on the shelf has gone empty.
 
WD-40 is junk.
It does a lot of things, but it does them all poorly.

It displaces water, but not as well as a can of ether.

It is a penetrating oil, but not as good as a can of PB blaster.

It is cleaning solvent, but not as good as many others (just about anyones carb/brake cleaner)

I can't believe it's label claims it's a lubricant. Using it to lube your bike chain, or your car door hinges/latches is just a real good way to have to lube it again already tomorrow.

I do keep a can of WD40...in the tacklebox. Believe it or not, sometimes the fish will go nuts for that stuff.

I'm not saying I wouldn't clean my guns with WD40, but if I am, you can bet it means every other can on the shelf has gone empty.


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It never fails. Just mention WD-40(wonderful stuff) and this stuff always pops up. I use WD-40 for a multitude of tasks and have for the past 40 years, never once had any problem with gumming. Isn't it funny that it never gums up the little orifice in the nozzle? If you use it to dry a distributor cap be sure to let it air dry before trying to start the engine it can explode destroying the cap. Be MORE cautious if you use ether for that.
 
Lighter fluid. Hold the firearm over the sink (after removing all wood and plastic) and hose a can of lighter fluid down it and then down the drain. The Naptha removes everything and dries without leaving a film.
 
Hold it over a pan in your garage. The naptha will evaporate pretty quick. Open a window to let out the fumes, unless you're in California, it's probably illegal there, and you'll have to keep the window shut and contain your fumes.
 
jimmyraythomason said:
It never fails. Just mention WD-40(wonderful stuff) and this stuff always pops up. I use WD-40 for a multitude of tasks and have for the past 40 years, never once had any problem with gumming. Isn't it funny that it never gums up the little orifice in the nozzle?
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I should have rephrased that. It would have been more accurate to describe is as a "jack of all trades, master of none" type of product. It is easy to find a product that does one specific thing better that WD40, but it is difficult to find one that has as wide a variety of uses. If I was limited to one aerosol can in my garage, it would probably be WD40.

My objection to cleaning a gun with it isn't that it gums up. It's that it dries up. If I clean up and oil a gun with WD40, put it back in the safe, and take it out a week later, the oil has dried up. The wear surfaces are no longer lubricated and protected from friction, and the handling surfaces no longer have a coating of oil protecting them from rusting.

jimmyraythomason said:
If you use it to dry a distributor cap be sure to let it air dry before trying to start the engine it can explode destroying the cap. Be MORE cautious if you use ether for that.
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Caution for something like that is definitely warranted (while using either product). Ether would make a bigger bang, but I think it's the safer product to use due to how rapidly it evaporates when uncontained
 
willypete said:
The only one I've ever seen is on my 440 from a '75 W350. Supposedly they were better about vapor-locking than metal carbs. The plastic was supposed to insulate against engine heat better than metal. ...
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Those were Thermoquads, not Quadrajets. Both were designed by Carter. Thermoquads were used primarily on 71 and up Mopars. Quadrajets were used primarily on GM products.

As far as cleaning goes, it is really tough to beat mineral spirits for metal parts.
 
I use (very) hot water with Dawn diswashing liquid for a complete cleaning. I degrease with Brownell's 909 before bluing guns/parts. I always follow up with WD-40 before the metal has a chance to cool very much. For general lubrication,I like RemOil but most any oil is fine.
 
Those were Thermoquads, not Quadrajets. Both were designed by Carter. Thermoquads were used primarily on 71 and up Mopars. Quadrajets were used primarily on GM products.
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Yep, right you are. I got my Carter "quad" products mixed up. :eek:;)
 
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