Revolver recommendation requested

[Harold Mayo]

I feel extremely comfortable around semi-auto handguns but have never, ever messed with revolvers (well, ok, I used to shoot a .22 revolver of my father's a lot when I was a kid). I am currently in the market for one with the intention of using it for concealed carry. Does anyone have any recommendations? Price isn't really much of an issue (although I always try to get by as cheaply as possible) to me but I do want reasonable quality.

Are the titanium revolvers worthwhile?

What caliber? .38 Special? .357 Magnum? These seem to be the most reasonable choices.

Hammer spur or no?

Educate me...please....

 

[stiletto raggio]

I would look at .357s with shrouded hammers. A shrouded hammer will stop you form snaggin when you draw but still give you the option of single action for range shots. If you want to be able to shoot it at the range, I would get a steel frame. Titanium framed magnums are hell to control and hurt a lot of people's hands. Just my opinion, thoguh, as I know a lot of people like the ultra lights.

 

[braindead0]

How do you prefer to carry? There are so many choices, all the way from full-sized (GP-100, N Frame 4" 'ers) to 2" or less hammerless 5-shot snubs.

Lest I forget, the 22mag pocket revolvers...

I think a sound general recommendation would be .38spcl or .357mag. I've heard some bad things about the titanium revos, but no first hand experience. Kinda depends on how important weight is to you.

Need more details, do you prefer IWB, strongside, shoulder, ankle, pocket carry or other?

 

[Harold Mayo]

Normally carry IWB, strong side. This would be strictly a carry gun and not see a high round count. Weight is somewhat important as is width (of course). I carry either a full-sized 1911 or a Browning hi-power, so it doesn't matter a lot, but I really do like the idea of something REALLY lightweight.

What barrel length? What manufacturer?

I dislike admitting it, but I am TOTALLY in the dark when it comes to revolvers.

 

[ChristopherG]

Harold,

The standard by which these things are measured is the lightweight S&W j-frame 2" .38. Because the real strong suit of these guns is their easy ability to be carried in the pocket, the covered hammer versions play to the strengths of the design, IMHO--by being snagproof. The current production models of 'Airweight' hammerless, or 'Centennial', snubs are the 442 and 642, which have aluminum frames with cylinders of, respectively, carbon and stainless steel (I'd go stainless for ease of care in a frequent CCW). These weigh in at 15 ounces, I believe.

One step lighter, you can get the 342. Same design, also .38 (and like the above, takes +P), but with a Scandium-aluminum alloy frame, stainless steel barrel liner, and a titanium cylinder, tipping the scales at a whopping 10.8 ounces. Incredibly light. Also about six bills.

If you're gonna go that far, though, you might want to think about having the ability to shoot .357 (what? out of such a light gun, you say? Insane? Indubitably). In that case, you get the 340. 12 ounces, unmatched power to weight ratio, easiest carrying thing around.

These Scandium-titanium guns are, frankly, punishing to shoot (esp. .357s. Ouch.). But, they are made to be carried a lot more than they're shot. They're good quality guns, in my experience. But, people who have the 442 or 642 seem uniformly happy with them, too.

Taurus is the main competitor for lightweight revos, and unless I was under a squeeze, I would just follow conventional wisdom and bank on the quality of the Smith.

Whatever snub you decide on, you're right to suspect you need one. A canonical American firearm.

cg

 

[Jim March]

Several points:

1) If you're going to carry IWB, weight won't be as critical an issue as you think if the holster is any good. The Ruger SP101 at 26/27 ounces is THE heavyweight of the class, great recoil control but too heavy for most folks. A steel-framed S&W or Taurus 5-shot 38/357 will run about 21/22 oz, certainly better and well within the "comfort range" for IWB or fanny pack carry.

Lighter guns are of course available. But get TOO light and run too hot a round, and it can yank the rounds out of the shells of the rest of the cylinderload(!), tying the gun up! This is becoming a serious issue on the 12oz/13oz S&W "Scandium" series 357s. The "Scandium" guns are really aluminum frames with an aluminum alloy containing trace amounts of scandium, which strengthens the alloy considerably. Marvelous metallurgy in theory, brutal recoil and questionable reliability in practice, at least in my opinion! I own and carry revolvers because I know they're gonna go "bang", and therefore I want at least 17 ounces in a 357, 14 or 15 in a 38. Taurus' Titanium series often hit those numbers where the S&W Scandiums won't.

2) Barrel length: the 3" barrel is highly under-rated! Everybody goes 2" for "pocket carry" but that sort of carry isn't real practical for most folk and for IWB, shoulder or fanny pack carry, you can hide 3" just as well. The extra inch of barrel helps accuracy (sight radius issue) and velocity. The velocity can be important because in 38Spl out of a 2" barrel, you have to pick ammo type very carefully in order to get something that expands, and even then it's marginal. An extra 50 feet per second out of a 3" can help.

3) Run the checkout! There's a "revolver checkout" thread posted permanently in this forum. On a small CCW wheelgun, you want a small cylinder gap for the same reason you want a 3" tube if possible: velocity boost. The checkout procedures will explain. Use this to hand-pick even a NEW gun, esp. a Taurus but all too often you'll see an S&W or Ruger "shipped sloppy".

Upshot: you'll have a fairly easy time finding a steel-frame S&W 5-shot 357 with a 3" barrel. Such a piece will be a lot cheaper than a titanium or scandium gun (which are often 2" only) saving as much as $200 or so. Even more if you shop used. Put some of the savings into a GOOD holster, a thin "tuckable" IWB type, and you'll be happy as a clam.

I don't consider the hammer type as critical as others, I see that as purely personal choice. A genuine old-fashioned hammer won't hurt any with a good holster and lots of draw practice, or you can go for whatever sort of snag-free or "hammer isn't even externally visible or cockable" sorta critter you want.

 

[10-Ring]

Personally, I prefer the mod 60 & 640. I like the steel guns because for follow up shots, they're just a tad nicer & easier to shoot (IMHO). I like the 357 revos because they give you that flexabilty plus the option of shooting 38's.

 

[Poohgyrr]

Depends......

Carry is a personal choice that depends on where each of us is coming from, and may involve concerns like medical issues, disabilities, kids, or whatever.

You can't go wrong with a J frame, they are really handy, concealable, and have worked well for lots of people. For a revolver as a primary & carried at the waist, I'd prefer any 3" to 4" barrel K, L, or N frame Smith in 38/357 or 44 Special. I believe .45 ACP/Colt has worked for quite a few folks too. Trying different things out works the best for me.

FWIW, my preferred carry when out and about town is a Hi Power (IWB) and a 640-1. Lately I've been trying a 3.5" .357 S&W that works much better than I thought.

I don't know if I've seen your posts there before, but another forum with lots of good revolver info is the S&W forum (www.smith-wessonforum.com).

 

[AngryBassets]

My two cents.

Again, it comes down to personal preference.

I carry my 337 (titanium/aluminum framed .38 with a hammer) mostly on my ankle in a DeSantis 'Die Hard' holster and literally forget it's there. Ankle carry may not be the 'best' way to carry a defensive weapon, but having to reach for your ankle is better than having to drive home to get your gun, which is where it would be if I had to lug some cannon around with me.

It seems from your post that weight is a consideration for you over all factors, and these guns can't be topped. Before buying mine, I considered the factors:

1) weight:I have previously carried an old, .38 spl 2" stainless steel model 60, which weighs in at about 21oz (I think). This was an off-duty only gun, as although wearing it in a no-name ankle holster was not too unpleasant, it was too much for on-duty. I wanted something as light as possible. Spending a little cash on the holster (about $50) was well worth it to upgrade from the no-name one that I had. I initially purchased an airWEIGHT model 37, which is aluminum frame with a steel barrel and cylinder. 15 oz, which is much lighter than the PPK's and Glock 27's that most of the other guys carry for back up. I sold that the day I picked up the 337. the 5 ounces make a *big* difference, IMO. Everyone who hold it can't believe it's a real gun; it's as light as a cap gun.


Hammer: Exposed? Shrouded? Internal? Having to complete a qualification course with the gun is made much easier using single-action shots from the longer distances. The 'centennial' style' internal hammer was out for me, in this case. When I carry (rarely) IWB, the holster I have prevents the hammer from chafing me, and I *never* carry in-pocket. The shrouded, or "bodyguard" style hammer seems like the perfect trade-off, but it also sometimes limits your choice of holster (can't use a thumbreak on most holsters). I have a pile of holsters that would go to waste. Also, this style isn't available with the Ti/Alum frame.

Barrel legnth: I never conisered anything longer than 2', because of my intentions to carry on my ankle.

Caliber: The 337PD that I have is a .38spl, but the same gun (but 2oz heavier) is available in .357. This gun is too light IMO to shoot .357 rounds through, and I believe that to shoot proficient when things are BAD, you should be familiar with how your weapon handles your particular SD ammo. I like my hand a bit too much to 'familiarize' myself with anything other than standard .38 ammo in this gun, or any gun this light. I personally don't see that much of a gain with a magnum round over standard one out of such a short barrel. A .well-placed 38 spl shot can be as effective as a .357 round. A highly recommended ammo for this gun is the 125 grain Federal Nyclad std pessure. It's been discontinued, but you can still find them around. Whatever you shoot out of this little monster, it's not going to be the same as a steel-framed gun.


These are my personal opinions; this is what works for me. Others here on this forum carry everything from .22 pocket guns to N frame .44 magnums. It's whatever works for YOU. At least you are obeying the first rule of a gunfight: to have a gun with you.

Good luck!

 

[AngryBassets]

My set up:

 

[s&w 24]

Heres another vote for a 3" barreled 357. The 3" bbl also makes the gun a little easier for me with IWB carry it is seems to me it has less of a tendancy to shift around on me. Also I can notice a big jump in shootability between 3" and 2" bbl's. A ruger sp101 will be easier to shoot due to weight but most 3" S&W 60's come with adj sights so take your pick. If your looking light weight maybe a colt cobra? 6 shots of 38 special, alloy construction, good fixed sights.

 

[BigG]

Besides snagging, the hammer will help wear holes in your clothes if that is a concern.

 

[MCNETT]

I would suggest a Ruger SP-101. It weighs about 10oz more than the rest of the small revolvers (titanium, scandium), but you will be able to practice and shoot .357's accurately (no flinching). The most painful weapon that I have ever shot was a scandium .357! The SP-101 is a very strong gun that will be light enough for carry, yet heavy enough to let you practice with it without making your middle finger bleed.
-Mike

 

[ChristopherG]

Harold, this is good stuff. Tell us a little more about how/when you might expect to carry it, and about your priorities in the qualities of a revolver?

 

[Kahr carrier]

S&W 649.

 

[The Mayor]

To quote myself from the 'always gun' topic:

"Since buying the 340PD it goes with me everywhere usually in a DeSantis pocket holster. The hammerless design never snags my pocket, and the light weight is practically unnoticeable. I use +P hydra-shok and feel the recoil is not an issue.
As far as the price goes, the 340 was only $20 more than the 342 Ti in 38+P. I spent that $20 to get the Scandium alloy frame, more so than the ability to shoot 357."

 

[V-fib]

Ruger Sp101 .357 3". You can't go wrong with this gun.

 

[AC]

I'd get a 2" J frame and carry in the pocket or in the appendix position under an untucked shirt or sweater.

For the 4 o'clock inside the pants carry a Kahr K-9 is more comfortable than even a J frame. So everytime I end up thinking of carrying a medium frame revolver I go with the small auto and get a DA pull every shot, as I would with the revo, and an extra two or three shots with better concealability.