Rifled sub-gauge tubes for skeet

Status
Not open for further replies.

cfullgraf

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2010
Messages
12,841
Location
East TN
I'm getting ready to buy sub gauge tubes for a new over/under shotgun (Citori 725 Skeet). Rifled sub-gauge tubes are the top of the line these days but since I am planning on shooting skeet with the new tubes, is the extra expense necessary? For skeet, I've seen comments on the internet favorable from both points of view.

It seems the rifled tubes may be helpful for sporting clays but not necessary for skeet.

I have a 28" Citori skeet with Briley tubes that has served me well since the early 1990's. The new 725 has 30" barrels and I am interested to see how the extra barrel length works for me..

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm assuming you are talking about the straight rifled tubes that are supposed to keep the wad from rotating down the barrel. In theory they seemed like a good idea, but were never proven to be better than straight smooth bore. I remember watching some high speed camera footage of both types of tubes and nothing was conclusive as when wind resistance hit the wads they would still rotate as they left the barrel and opened up, not all the same rotation either, depended on which wad petal was more stiff determined which direction the wad would rotate.

I personally would not get the rifling, added cleaning is one side effect. If you have the money to burn, get them but I don't think they really help with longer shots. If it did, trap shooters would be all over straight rifling in standard 12 gauge barrels for 27 yard handicap shoots.
 
Been shooting skeet for 30 years...not worth it. Guy I shoot with "wasted" the money (his words) on it, he a registered shooter and a TON better than me
 
I personally would not get the rifling, added cleaning is one side effect. If you have the money to burn, get them but I don't think they really help with longer shots.

Been shooting skeet for 30 years...not worth it. Guy I shoot with "wasted" the money (his words) on it, he a registered shooter and a TON better than me

Thanks for the input and I'll go with the smooth bore tubes based on your advice. The savings will help justify the new case for the shotgun and tubes.:)

I'm really past my serious competition days but enjoy shooting skeet, especially the sub-gauge bores. The new Browning Citori 725 Skeet has 30" barrels and I'm interested to see how I do with them. My existing skeet gun is an older, late 1980's vintage, Browning Grade III Skeet model with 28" barrel. It has served me well over the years.

Periodically, I dabble with a .410 Browning Synergy model and a 28 gauge Beretta 686 but I just do not shoot them as well as the tubed 12 gauge Citori. The lighter weight of the smaller gauge guns just make keeping the swing up difficult.
 
If you want to shoot subgauge with tubes get the full length ones from either Briley or Kolar. There is no reason for using rifled tubes unless you're shooting slugs. A set for 20, 28 and 410 will run over $1,000, but that is cheaper then three new guns. You will then need to add a barrel weight when shooting it as a 12 so the weight and balance remains the same....OR you get a set of carrier barrels made expressly for installing subgauge tubes only and you leave your 12 gauge barrels alone.
 
The verdict has not really been delivered on rifled tubes. There are those who believe that the [straight] rifling serves to "tighten" patterns or at least diminish disruption caused by possible wad rotation, in ways that enhance patterns. I'm not aware that the theory has been definitively documented.

As you note, in Sporting where one may be trying to reach out to 60 - 70 yards, there might be an edge in that, although I haven't seen "rifled 12 ga Sporting guns yet. The grumpy Trap set has experimented with them and I don't think there is a move afoot to go for "rifled" barrels. (This may be of interest https://www.trapshooters.com/threads/a-straight-rifled-barrel-pattern-tested-winston.73070/ )

For skeet, there simply doesn't seem to be a case to be made for it. On that basis, it's very hard to justify any extra expense and I recall the Briley tubes as being about $100 a pop more?. But as per above, go the extra 26" or so for full length tubes rather than just inserts.
 
If you want to shoot subgauge with tubes get the full length ones from either Briley or Kolar. .

But as per above, go the extra 26" or so for full length tubes rather than just inserts.

I wasn't clear on how my old 28" Citori is outfitted. It has a set of Briley Matched Weight fitted tubes with fixed chokes.

The new gun will have at least similar quality or better tubes. The rifled tubes are new technology from when I was last active in skeet and I appreciate all the information and opinions on them.
 
If you're starting to get back into it with a new gun, then a carrier barrel for the subgauge tubes would be ideal. Using full length tubes, even the titanium ones, adds almost another full pound to the gun and disturbs any semblance of balance it may have had. And to keep it all similar, you would have to add a weight to your 12 gauge barrels to equal that extra weight (and find the right balance "sweet" spot). Using a carrier barrel will allow you to keeP that extra weight off because they carrier barrel with the tubes installed can be made to weight what your 12 gauge barrels weigh (and even balance the same)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top