Roll crimp vs Taper Crimp for Revolver Loads

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Shooting light loads with out a good roll crimp will cause a lot of blowback=dirty cases and gun. Little crimp will allow the bullet to jump the case before near total flagration. People complain when they use light loads to many powder flakes are unburned. See above.

A tight crimp holds the bullet to the last nano second until the bullet is forced out of the case.

I shoot light loads in competition and do a very strong roll crimp. I am not shooting for accuracy. Trade off
 
Made new batch yesterday with just enough crimp to smooth out the flare and .005 longer to make sure the front driving band before the taper was fully in contact with the case.

I'm a bit lost on where to be with the powder so I started with 3.0gr VV N320 (on some charts speed is on par with W231/HP38).

That was the powder load in my overly crimped first batch of rounds. There was a generalized tendancy to shoot higher than POA at 25 yd (shot from Hyskore rest).

Any help with powders would be appreciated. I also have Red and Green Dot, and Titegroup.
 
Shooting light loads with out a good roll crimp will cause a lot of blowback=dirty cases and gun. Little crimp will allow the bullet to jump the case before near total flagration. People complain when they use light loads to many powder flakes are unburned. See above.



A tight crimp holds the bullet to the last nano second until the bullet is forced out of the case.



I shoot light loads in competition and do a very strong roll crimp. I am not shooting for accuracy. Trade off


I would agree with your statement if we were talking about medium burn rate powders. When talking about fast powders, like the fastest 10%(aa#2, vv310, etc) those aren't an issue. The crimp simply isn't needed because the powder ignites and burns so quickly and easily.

I'm your case you are not shooting for accuracy I would crimp a little tighter too.
 
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Made new batch yesterday with just enough crimp to smooth out the flare and .005 longer to make sure the front driving band before the taper was fully in contact with the case.

I'm a bit lost on where to be with the powder so I started with 3.0gr VV N320 (on some charts speed is on par with W231/HP38).

That was the powder load in my overly crimped first batch of rounds. There was a generalized tendancy to shoot higher than POA at 25 yd (shot from Hyskore rest).

Any help with powders would be appreciated. I also have Red and Green Dot, and Titegroup.


I personally prefer AA#2 for this kind of load. Lots all I use in my bullseye loads. It meters much better than basically anything else in it's speed range and has made the most accurate cartridges for me. My best accuracy was found at 2.9-3.0gr.
 
ljnowell


Accuracy was not that important in Security training, feeding from the Safariland speed loaders was more important. 2" group of 5 rounds at 20m was fine.

Bulls eye competition? No good. My centre fire target loads were S&W .32 Wad Cutters, 90g swaged lead, pushed along with 1.4g of 700X! Incredibly accurate!

I tried to have friends load for me! For my classes. Disaster, pushing rounds with thumb to seat them? Oh no. With my Wife loading primer tubes, 600 per hour was easy.
 
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ljnowell





Accuracy was not that important in Security training, feeding from the Safariland speed loaders was more important. 2" group of 5 rounds at 20m was fine.



Bulls eye competition? No good. My centre fire target loads were S&W .32 Wad Cutters, 90g swaged lead, pushed along with 1.4g of 700X! Incredibly accurate!



I tried to have friends load for me! For my classes. Disaster, pushing rounds with thumb to seat them? Oh no. With my Wife loading primer tubes, 600 per hour was easy.


Most definitely. I bet those little 32 wadcutters were like shooting a cap gun! That's the name of the game in bullseye though. It's a fun sport but without a doubt the most challenging pistol sport I've ever competed in.
 
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