Ruger American Remove From Stock, Zero Change?

[Scout21]

I've got a Ruger American that I've had out in the rain the past few days and the action screws are a good bit rusty. Can I remove them and put them back in with reasonable confidence that my zero will not change? I'm not able to verify zero before my next hunt. The rifle is completely stock with the Ruger bedding system and the rifle has never been removed from the stock.

 

[1KPerDay]

I personally would hose them with oil and leave them in place if you can’t verify zero.

 

[jmr40]

You know, it's one of those things that I don't like to do. In the past I've always liked to verify zero after removing the action from the stock before hunting with it. But on the other hand, I've never had to tweak the zero after doing so.

As long as you put it back together right you'll probably be OK. If you over torque one screw, or don't get everything aligned correctly you may have issues. But the Ruger American stock and bedding system is pretty fool proof. Where guys get into trouble is not getting mag boxes installed correctly when putting them back together. Since the Ruger uses a DBM instead of having an internal mag box this is one less thing to worry about.

 

[Bartojc]

I always feel weird if I don't verify. With my Ruger American I've never had an issue. Make sure you get the torque correct on the action screws when you put it back together and you should be fine.

-Jeff

 

[earlthegoat2]

I believe the torque specs are in the user manual.

They are pretty snug for mine at 60 something in/lbs.

 

[LoonWulf]

I believe the torque specs are in the user manual.

They are pretty snug for mine at 60 something in/lbs.

I use 60 as well, I've never seen a change in point of impact with a stock ruger American.
I have with Ruger Americans and aftermarket stocks, and with other rifles. Thus I'm not going to say it is an impossible that you'll put the gun back together and it won't shoot where It was before.

Personally id so as suggested and soak the thing with oil and leave it until you can rezero after reassembly

 

[.308 Norma]

Can I remove them and put them back in with reasonable confidence that my zero will not change?

Nah, I wouldn't be "reasonably confident" that my rifle's zero wouldn't change.

I'm not able to verify zero before my next hunt.

That's additional information, and it might make me say, "So what if my rifle's zero changes a little bit?" What are you figuring on hunting, and what distances are we talking about? What I mean is, if I was hunting deer, and the average distance for a shot was 100 yards or less, I wouldn't give a hoot if my rifle shot 2" off from where I had it "sighted in" before I took it apart. Lots, and I mean lots of people figure 4" groups are okay for deer 100 yards and under. Some deer hunters use open sights, and others even hunt with shotguns and slugs.
On the other hand, 2" off at 100 yards from where I had my 22-250 varmint rifle sighted before I took it apart might make a difference - if I wanted to take a shot at a 300 yard coyote. The same thing applies to my 308 Norma Magnum if I ever draw another Idaho pronghorn tag (I haven't in the last 5 years) and want to take a shot at a 400 yard speed goat.
BTW, I grew up hunting with my dad, and to him, if he could hit a 12" diameter rock or dirt clod at a hundred yards, that was "good enough." And he killed plenty of mule deer and elk back in the day. So Dad worrying about a "zero change" caused by taking the stock off his trusty "three-oh-eight" and putting it back on??? C'mon.

 

[Scout21]

Thanks for all the responses, guys. I think I'll be soaking it in some oil or WD-40 until after I finish my hunting trip. When I finally get around to checking my zero I'll report back and let you guys know what I've concluded.

 

[Riomouse911]

This is a great scenario for wd-40. Douse it, wipe it off, hunt with it, then take it down for a proper cleaning afterwards


Good luck on the hunt, let us know if you bag a critter .

Stay safe.

 

[Varminterror]

WD-40 chased by a penetrating oil. WD-40 isn’t a good lubricant or protectant - it’s a great water displacer.

Pulling the action for the stock with an unknown current torque and an unknown bedding reliability is an invitation for inconsistency. Even for my rifles with proven (tested and confirmed) bedding and known torque preference, I confirm zero every time they leave the stock.

So if you’re unwilling to confirm/correct zero after removing and replacing the action into the stock before your hunt, then the only option remaining in the corner you’ve painted yourself into is to NOT remove the action and simply rely upon water displacer and penetrating oil to cease the damage from progressing and hopefully prevent the screws from seizing into the action.

 

[Andrewsky]

I've got a Ruger American that I've had out in the rain the past few days and the action screws are a good bit rusty. Can I remove them and put them back in with reasonable confidence that my zero will not change? I'm not able to verify zero before my next hunt. The rifle is completely stock with the Ruger bedding system and the rifle has never been removed from the stock.

Define "a good bit rusty." Preferably with a picture.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

My 'new' Japanese Type 99 has punched 'witness marks' next to each stock and furniture screw to indicate where the slot should end up when snugged. Witness marks are also a pretty common practice with Pic/Weaver mount screws -- not a perfect solution, but something to consider with TG screws.

 

[Scout21]

My 'new' Japanese Type 99 has punched 'witness marks' next to each stock and furniture screw to indicate where the slot should end up when snugged. Witness marks are also a pretty common practice with Pic/Weaver mount screws -- not a perfect solution, but something to consider with TG screws.


View attachment 1046599

I really like this idea. I've seen it done with uncovered target scope turrets before, but I've never thought about doing it with the action screws.

I think I'll try it out, thanks for the idea.

 

[Scout21]

Well I tested the rifle out today. The buck didn't seem to be able to tell if it was off or not, although he was only at 50 yards or so. It seemed to hit pretty much where I aimed. I'll update after I put it on paper.

 

[DustyGmt]

I changed my ruger american compact rifle stock to a ruger predator stock for its longer LOP (same stock essentially, same V blocks) and I had to re-zero. I wouldn't personally take the action screws out, it could very well change things and you don't want to take a bad shot.

 

[FL-NC]

Removing the stock from the action qualifies as "major surgery". I would definitely verify with live fire afterwards. I torque to 65" lbs., same as a M24 SWS.

 

[Scout21]

I changed my ruger american compact rifle stock to a ruger predator stock for its longer LOP (same stock essentially, same V blocks) and I had to re-zero. I wouldn't personally take the action screws out, it could very well change things and you don't want to take a bad shot.

Would you happen to remember how far the zero was off. Did you tighten the action screws to a similar torque value?

 

[Scout21]

Removing the stock from the action qualifies as "major surgery". I would definitely verify with live fire afterwards. I torque to 65" lbs., same as a M24 SWS.

I'd certainly prefer to verify my zero, but unfortunately that's less than ideal where I am currently hunting.

My maximum range here is ~150 yards, so I'm not overly concerned as it could be off by a few inches and I'd still end up with a dead animal.

I'll definitely be updating this thread whenever I get a chance to get to the range.

 

[Turkeytider]

Nah, I wouldn't be "reasonably confident" that my rifle's zero wouldn't change.

That's additional information, and it might make me say, "So what if my rifle's zero changes a little bit?" What are you figuring on hunting, and what distances are we talking about? What I mean is, if I was hunting deer, and the average distance for a shot was 100 yards or less, I wouldn't give a hoot if my rifle shot 2" off from where I had it "sighted in" before I took it apart. Lots, and I mean lots of people figure 4" groups are okay for deer 100 yards and under. Some deer hunters use open sights, and others even hunt with shotguns and slugs.
On the other hand, 2" off at 100 yards from where I had my 22-250 varmint rifle sighted before I took it apart might make a difference - if I wanted to take a shot at a 300 yard coyote. The same thing applies to my 308 Norma Magnum if I ever draw another Idaho pronghorn tag (I haven't in the last 5 years) and want to take a shot at a 400 yard speed goat.
BTW, I grew up hunting with my dad, and to him, if he could hit a 12" diameter rock or dirt clod at a hundred yards, that was "good enough." And he killed plenty of mule deer and elk back in the day. So Dad worrying about a "zero change" caused by taking the stock off his trusty "three-oh-eight" and putting it back on??? C'mon.

Yep. As a rule, max shots on deer and coyotes in this part of the country ( Southeast in general, Georgia in particular ) are MAYBE 200 yards. Don`t need 5 shots covered by a nickel as far as precision is concerned. I DO try for sub-MOA accuracy ( POA vs. POI ) however.

 

[DustyGmt]

Would you happen to remember how far the zero was off. Did you tighten the action screws to a similar torque value?

It was all screwy. When I put the rifle away it was shooting 120gr NBT's sub moa and when I changed stocks, torqued back to 60 lbs as before It was way off. I don't remember where the first shot went but I want to say as much as 4" high and left. I actually couldn't get it dialed in that day at all, had to walk away from it that day. I was using the same loads, same box and still haven't had time to futz with it.

I would caution against it, I wouldn't turn those screws at all. Unless you can re zero.

 

[Captcurt]

I wouldn't worry about it if I had access to a Torx screwdriver, and I do.