I recently inherited an accurized Ruger Mini-14 from my father. Can anyone please help and tell me the minimum and maximum bullet weights for caliber .223 with a 24” fluted bull barrel with a 1:10 twist rate?
Ruger Mini-14 Accurized.
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carbine85
Member
The 1:10 twist will probably prefer 55 grain bullets or maybe 62. That's a slow twist for heavier long distance bullets but you never know until you try.
I'm guessing the barrel was replaced since Ruger never made a 24" bull barrel. You might check with the manufacturer of the barrel.
Bedding the receiver helps these guns a lot if you are still using the standard stock.
I'm guessing the barrel was replaced since Ruger never made a 24" bull barrel. You might check with the manufacturer of the barrel.
Bedding the receiver helps these guns a lot if you are still using the standard stock.
benEzra
Moderator Emeritus
You should be able to go as high as 69 grains, but you'd have to try it to make sure they stay stabilized. The fact that it's a 24" barrel helps (barrel length = more velocity = faster rotation in flight).
There's a good thread in more detail here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=416475
As far as minimum bullet weight goes, you might be OK with 40gr loads or you might not. It will stabilize them fine, of course, but you'll have to see if the bullets hold together in flight. I *think* my 188-27xxx Ranch Rifle was 1:7 (18.5") and I shot Federal 40gr JHP and Hornady 40gr VMAX through it without the bullets coming apart, and I doubt even a 24" 1:10 will spin them faster than that.
Another good thread here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=67087
You'll have to experiment to see what loads it likes best within that range, of course.
There's a good thread in more detail here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=416475
As far as minimum bullet weight goes, you might be OK with 40gr loads or you might not. It will stabilize them fine, of course, but you'll have to see if the bullets hold together in flight. I *think* my 188-27xxx Ranch Rifle was 1:7 (18.5") and I shot Federal 40gr JHP and Hornady 40gr VMAX through it without the bullets coming apart, and I doubt even a 24" 1:10 will spin them faster than that.
Another good thread here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=67087
You'll have to experiment to see what loads it likes best within that range, of course.
sirgilligan
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The minimum and maximum will be determined by the barrel/gun itself.
Here are some range reports with a rifle that has 1:9. Most would think it would not stabilize this range of bullet weights. There are 35 up to 75 grain bullets used.
Here are some range reports with a rifle that has 1:9. Most would think it would not stabilize this range of bullet weights. There are 35 up to 75 grain bullets used.
I use 40gr v-max bullets in my 1:9 Savages. 28.5gr of BLC-2 so they're scooting pretty good. Never had any problems and verrrry accurate.
Just because a maker says twist is 1x9 doesn't mean it is. One maker might have it 1x9 3/4 anothers 1x9 might be 1x8 1/2. I found the old savages with 1x9 easily shot 75 grain and the newer ones with 1x9 would not. Mileage may varyThe minimum and maximum will be determined by the barrel/gun itself.
Here are some range reports with a rifle that has 1:9. Most would think it would not stabilize this range of bullet weights. There are 35 up to 75 grain bullets used.
Wow! Thanks for all the great information. Looking thru the folder my father left me. He purchased the rifle and send it to “Accuracy Rifle System/Odessa, TX”. This is what he had done to the rifle “HB Conversion Ruger Mini-14KR”:
1) LWSS 24”, 1X10 .223 Remington SAAMI Commercial.
2) Fluting.
3) SS ‘rs Heavy Gas Block.
4) ARS Adjustable Muzzle Brake.
5) ARS Adjustable Trigger Installed And Set At 52 Oz.
6) Bedding.
7) WRFS.
8) Bell & Carlson Stock Cammo.
9) SS Stock Liner & Slide Screws/Washers.
He wasn’t able to shoot/brake in/test fire the rifle because he became ill before he received the rifle back from them, but he was able to lube it and vacuum sealed before he stored. I found the “Brake-In” and “Adjustable Trigger” instructions, but nothing regarding the following (I emailed the company the last month the following questions and so far I haven’t received an answer):
A) How to adjust/set the “ARS Adjustable Muzzle Brake”?
B) (Please forgive my ignorance). I know this rifle its factory .223, but since the rifle have a bull barrel installed now, can I use 5.56X45MM?
C) Which bullet/s weight grain/s I should use to “brake-in”, “practice/play” and “hunt” with this rifle? (YOU GUYS ALREADY HELPED ME WITH THIS ONE).
Here is a picture of the rifle:
1) LWSS 24”, 1X10 .223 Remington SAAMI Commercial.
2) Fluting.
3) SS ‘rs Heavy Gas Block.
4) ARS Adjustable Muzzle Brake.
5) ARS Adjustable Trigger Installed And Set At 52 Oz.
6) Bedding.
7) WRFS.
8) Bell & Carlson Stock Cammo.
9) SS Stock Liner & Slide Screws/Washers.
He wasn’t able to shoot/brake in/test fire the rifle because he became ill before he received the rifle back from them, but he was able to lube it and vacuum sealed before he stored. I found the “Brake-In” and “Adjustable Trigger” instructions, but nothing regarding the following (I emailed the company the last month the following questions and so far I haven’t received an answer):
A) How to adjust/set the “ARS Adjustable Muzzle Brake”?
B) (Please forgive my ignorance). I know this rifle its factory .223, but since the rifle have a bull barrel installed now, can I use 5.56X45MM?
C) Which bullet/s weight grain/s I should use to “brake-in”, “practice/play” and “hunt” with this rifle? (YOU GUYS ALREADY HELPED ME WITH THIS ONE).
Here is a picture of the rifle:
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I assume you're talking about "breaking in" the barrel? Per that paragon of wisdom, Gale McMillan, you don't need to break-in a barrel. Just go shoot it. The "brake" is the device on the end of the barrel. Cars also have brakes. 
Should shoot great.
Should shoot great.
Sorry! Yes, I meant break-in the barrel. What is the purpose for the brake to be adjustable? And how it’s adjusted? Is it reverse thread or standard? Are they any special tools required to adjust it? Is there any required torque? Since, the instructions were not included I don’t want to mess it up. I was hoping to receive that information from the company that accurized my father’s rifle (Accuracy Rifle System) since every manufacturer have their own specifications, but no luck.
I haven’t shoot it yet. I hope to buy the ammo soon, using the recommendations obtained here. Thanks!
I haven’t shoot it yet. I hope to buy the ammo soon, using the recommendations obtained here. Thanks!
Sorry, I screwed up again "breaking in" the barrel. Just wanted to clarify I didn’t meant to repeating the same mistake again. Sorry again.
carbine85
Member
I didn't realize what was done to this rifle before I posted a response.
Check out They have a Mini section with good information. You rifle will probably shoot anything from 40 gr to 69 gr. My guess is a 52-55 match grade bullet will be the best.
Adjustable gas block: You open just enough to allow the action to cycle properly with your ammo of choice.
Adjustable muzzle device: You adjust it as a damping device. Find the load you like and tweak the device and help dial in your round.
Trigger: Adjust the trigger pull to the weight you like.
Barrel break in is a myth IMHO. Clean it before you shoot. Clean it after a few rounds and simply clean after each session.
Post some targets after you get it out.
Check out They have a Mini section with good information. You rifle will probably shoot anything from 40 gr to 69 gr. My guess is a 52-55 match grade bullet will be the best.
Adjustable gas block: You open just enough to allow the action to cycle properly with your ammo of choice.
Adjustable muzzle device: You adjust it as a damping device. Find the load you like and tweak the device and help dial in your round.
Trigger: Adjust the trigger pull to the weight you like.
Barrel break in is a myth IMHO. Clean it before you shoot. Clean it after a few rounds and simply clean after each session.
Post some targets after you get it out.
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