Ruger MKII 22 extraction/eject issue

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7mmstalker

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This little pistol is giving me nightmares!
Recently had a 'smith replace the ejector and that made no difference.
A very helpful fellow at the range suggests that the chamber likely has a burr from dry firing, and reccomends lightly filing the chamber where the firing pin strikes.
I've tried about 5 or 7 different types of ammo and can't fire a full clip without 2 to 6 stovepipe jams.
Found a very informative website (thanx to THR) with some good tuning tips. Modified 1 of my mag's feed lips very slightly, no noticeable change.
I'm open to any and all suggestions/ideas, though I haven't yet tried filing the chamber. Removing metal from that part of the gun is on my "last resort" list- I'd send it to the factory first.
My urge to solve the problem myself - some call it stubborness- has me obsessed. After all, aren't 22s 'spose to be cheap and fun to shoot?
 
Do not file (remove metal), from the chamber area. If you can see chamber damage due to the firing pin hitting the edge of the chamber, there is a tool that will swage (change the location of the metal via plastic deformation without removing it), the metal back where it was.
Brownell's has it, Midwayusa might have it.
 
I dunno, I just use a pocket knife to remove the burr on the chamber lip. Seems to work just fine. Anyways, yes, a burr can cause the malfunctions you describe. When the cartridge goes off the case expands and gets caught on the burr giving you failure to extract (complete), or extraction with case being pulled off the extractor and failure to eject (stovepipe).
 
If the problem is a burr than it needs to be swaged back into spec and not removed. I would also remove the extractor and look at the hook and the spring. The extractor may just be slipping off the case's rim. If a case sticks really tight and the extractor doesn't slip off then the hook will usually lose a little bit of its tip. Inspect the chamber inside and be sure it is smooth and clean.
 
Pretty sure the chamber isn't dimpled by the firing pin, not visible to my eye. Definitely agree that if any work is done on the chamber , it will be with the swaging tool, to put the metal back where it came from rather than remove it!
The extractor seems to not grip a loose case very tight at all, (bolt removed).
Did a very agressive scrubbing on the chamber, used a bit of automotive paste type rubbing compound on a used casing loosely stuck on a rod, spun by a drill. Not much friction, the case stopped spinning alot. That made the chamber shine like a mirror, fired maybe 2 or 3 mags out of about 10 attempts.
Maybe its time to spend a few bucks and get that swaging tool?
 
If chamber, including its edge, are OK, remove bolt, then extractor. Here is a schematic:

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=8289

Parts are #s 10, 11, & 12.

To get the extractor out, hold its plunger back with a very small screwdriver flat tip or similar.

BE Careful to avoid losing any part(s). BTDT.

Does the extractor body look okay? Straight, true, clean?

Does the extractor hook, especially the tip, look okay? Use a magnifying glass. Hold a case rim against it as if chambered. If tip misshapen or badly worn, maybe you can restore with a needle file. If chipped, replace extractor.

Examine extractor channel and spring tunnel. Straight, true, clean?

Plunger look okay?

If all that checks, replace spring. If the gun has been fired so much the tip was badly worn, either replace spring or, if you plan to shoot a bunch more, get a spare spring.

Remember to align the flat part (if there is a flat) of the plunger's tip against the rear of the extractor when you reassemble.

If you get a new extractor, check thoroughly with mag glass before you put it in the bolt. Yes it does happen; a brand new part can be defective. Oh yeah if you had to get a new spring, uncompressed it should be longer than the old one. Or at least stiffer.

In most guns and especially .22 RF semiautos, when the lube, ammo, chamber, and, where applicable, feed lips are all right, but ejection is unreliable, check ejector. If it looks OK and where applicable, its spring seems okay, start checking the extractor function. Unless broken or missing, it's rarely the ejector. Even spring loaded ones seldom give trouble in a well maintained gun.

Please let me know how it goes.
 
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That Ruger is designed to be dry fired practically forever without damage to any part of the barrel or chamber. Period. If it does mar the face of the barrel, don't take any advice about filing, swaging, or applying bat grease, and don't waste money on a tool. Call Ruger and return it.

I suspect a magazine problem, but can't tell without seeing the gun. I am surprised the gunsmith would replace the ejector, as the Ruger ejector is riveted into the receiver and is about as solid as an ejector can get. I also doubt the problem is the extractor, since in a blowback pistol the extractor really has almost no function except to remove a misfrie or unfired round from the chamber.

Jim
 
^ What he said.
The helpful (file advisor) guy at my local range is accustomed to target rifles, maybe they are more prone to that happening?
Shot a lot of 22 rimfire guns in my days, and this is the first time I've heard of the chamber being damaged by the fairly common event of firing on an empty chamber.
Suspected magazine problems as well, however, the stovepipe / failure to eject the fired case has happened with the magazine removed as well.
 
I used to have a MKII, and it would jam up too. The follower in the magazine was my cause. Bent it a little and found the sweet spot.
 
Ruger .22s aren't prone to damage from dryfiring. Winchester 9422s are. Friend had a burr develop. He has also broken a firing pin in a Marlin 39.

There are some guns that don't need extractors. Beretta tip ups best known. Have heard of some cheap conventional (non-tip up) blowbacks being designed w/o an extractor. Certainly extractors sometimes fail, break, or get lost. Thus the need to visually check chambers after removing a mag/emptying tube, not just rack slide or bolt.

Still I have had extractors get gummed and/or their springs get weak. Since you're having the problem w/mag out and you've eliminated ammo, chamber, and ejector- check the extractor the way I suggested.
 
Stove pipes in MK's seam to be pretty common problem. What is happening is the empty case is getting knocked off before it hits the ejector. Now if you have the LCI in place and have not cleaned it, (assemble dry) it will cause stove pipes when it sticks. I push on mine with a small screw driver and if does not spring back instantly/sluggish it needs cleaning. You need to remove the barrel/receiver to gain access to the pivot pin. I use a strong magnet to pull it out, just need to apply a little pressure from inside to get it to release. I've had even had to bang it against the bench top to jar them out. Another thing to check is if the magazine is setting too high. This will cause the bullet to knock the empty off before the ejector. I had to file on the notch on one mag to correct it from stove pipes. The mags should be around 1/32"-1/16" away from the ejector. If you have not cleaned your mags do so and check for burrs around the top lips.

If you do not know how to detail clean go here www.guntalk-online.com/service.html and follow the pictorial guide. The photos enlarge for better detail.
 
It just dawned on me that this is a MKII he asking about, not a MKIII. So you can disregard the LCI part. But magazine ride height, good extractor like VQ's EDM tool steel cut. If you have more than 1 mag number them. If this is a new problem I would always suggest starting with a good detail clean. I know these guns will shoot and shoot and shoot with out detail cleaning them. My neighbor has a MKII that went 24 yrs before I cleaned it for him. The only reason he as was my trigger was a lot lighter and smoother. His was over 10# with every thing gummed up.
 
You state you had a smith replace the ejector, I would replace the EXTRACTOR and spring with a replacement from Clark or Volquartsen.
 
Stove pipes in MK's seam to be pretty common problem. What is happening is the empty case is getting knocked off before it hits the ejector.
Click to expand...

I had that too. Spent casing was knocked off by magazine lips. Just file the lips down a bit and happy so far after many years. There is an instruction somewhere on the net.
 
Was reading another thread where a poster noted he had problems with a new lot being erratic in power. Some rounds didn't quite have as much powder?. Whatever the reason, they seemed to shoot normally but wouldn't quite function the action all the way.
 
Thanks to all for the good ideas.
Read about smoothing the feed lips of the mag, did that to one of them, looks better but no results. Tried leaving it "dirty" -firing a couple hundred rds w/out cleaning,- hoping to "break in" the action, probably worked worse! Tried a very thorough cleaning with minimal lube, super clean and "wet" with oil, etc. etc.
This pistol was acquired used, but very little, now I know why!
Bit by bit all the easy answers have been exhausted.
I like Ruger guns, have had a few and was able to tune or tighten them all. They seem to sell for less $ than a S&W, Colt, Reminton, Winchester, or some others. The trade-off seems to be that they might need a bit of massaging to perform up to expectations.
Ordering a Volquartsen extractor and spring.
The engineers performance designs often suffer when factory mass-production takes control of the final product.
 
Last resort,if the new extractor doesn't help replace the old extractor and ship it back to Ruger. Their customer service is very good and they'll make the gun right.
 
10-22s and MKs firing pins will not hit the barrel.

Mags are after the fact.

It will be the ejector and/or the extractor. The extractor must have a rather sharp point while maintaining a 90 degree angle with the body without shortening the reach/sharp point. The ejector hits the case at around 8:00 and knocks the case from the bolt face causing the extractor to lose its hold at the proper time.
Method is the same with my Winchester 97s and most all firearms.

Make sure the extractor slot in barrel is clean allowing the extractor to close on the case rim. Same with extractor hook. Ejector is simply an abutment.
 
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Thanx, Red Cent
Good, detailed, insight into the extractor fitment and proper function. I'll try another time to super clean and inspect the bolt, paying closer attention to these points. Meanwhile, in a week or so, parts will be here, so I'll have spares, if successful!
 
7mm, I feel your pain. My 10/22 one day (after 18 years of reliable use) magically started stovepiping. multiple mags, multiple bulk packs of ammo. I replaced the extractor with a VQ, I cleaned, lubed, polished, and finally called ruger. They were nice, but not really any help. They said maybe it's the ammo. It's still not resolved. I hope you have better luck than I have had.
 
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