Ruger Security Six vs S&W Model 13, pretty close?

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becket

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I’ve been thinking about getting a S&W model 13-whatever , let’s say 4”, since my Six is that length. Would really like a 3” for better carry too tho, so let’s throw that in as well (sound familiar?) ! Never shot a Mod. 13 but have liked them and their history for quite a while. What do you lucky folks that have shot both feel the diff and similarities are, in mainly .357 magnum ? 4” weights are within a couple ounces aren’t they?
My Six is a 1978 pinned and recessed, and I love it, a good one for magnums with all that heft; thanks!
 
I have both and carried both as a duty gun. The Ruger is much more durable than the Model 13. Revolvers I have seen kaboom usually blow out the cylinder then the front of the top strap. Compare the thickness of the top strap of the Security Six with the Model 13. You don't have to worry about cracking the forcing cone when using lighter bullets with the Ruger either.

I feel the trigger in the Model 13 is better than the Ruger.

3" or 4"? The major advantage of the 3" is if you want to appendix carry AFAIC. It wasn't a 13 but a 3" Model 65 I carried concealed as a duty gun. I really didn't feel the 3" was more concealable but if that's what floats your boat go for it. I don't think either has an advantage fir concealability as they are pretty much the same size.

An advantage of owning a Six Series and a K frame is with the exception of some security holsters you can use one holster for both guns. The same goes for speedloaders. I like the DeSantis Speed Scabbard without the thumb break (you can get it with or without).
 
Thank you; very informative and just the detailed info I needed. Maybe an occ range gun then. I would like it as an eventuality set of mods. 27/19/13, and I’m a sucker for bluing as it used to be!
 
On the thin mod. 13 forcing cone issue:
Was the model 19 a bit thicker? I guess on
the new classic series mod. 19 it’s now better steel and/or thicker ? As an aside, someone could make a mint selling matching
Lawyer-hole (keyhole) plugs . A beautiful reproduction with a hole in it, jeez... .
 
The Ruger is a brick house. The Smith is High Art (in a good year). Which do you want?

I own 2 Rugers, and many Smiths, because I like beautiful, artfully designed revolvers, and have limited need to run Ruger-Hot reloads.
 
Apples to Oranges.
Speed-6 to M13 is a better comparison.
FIXED sights. Sec-6 has adjustable rear sight.

The cracked forcing cone issue is over done. It occurs either with firing out a squib, or in seriously eroded forcing cones firing a sustained high volume of MAGNUM jacketed bullets. Specifically the 125gr loads.

The agency that was primarily responsible for the cracking issue was using a set of range guns to train/qualify it’s officers. One gun that I’m aware of that cracked a forcing cone had a documented 100,000+ rounds through it. Another had 25,000+ rounds. Forcing cone on that one let go due to a squib fired out after agency went to .38+P reloads. I knew the S&W rep that handled the issue. They warranties the guns with “one” rebuild.
BTW, the ammo was reloads using Blue Dot powder, at 1,400fps from 4” barrels. I met the Chief RO at PPC matches.

If you are concerned about forcing cone cracks, and plan to shoot a high volume of magnums, get a 686... It was S&W’s answer to the problem.
 
On the thin mod. 13 forcing cone issue:
Was the model 19 a bit thicker? I guess on
the new classic series mod. 19 it’s now better steel and/or thicker ? As an aside, someone could make a mint selling matching
Lawyer-hole (keyhole) plugs . A beautiful reproduction with a hole in it, jeez... .
The vintage 19s have the same forcing cone as the 13, but the new production guns have a totally redesigned cylinder lockup system and they took the opportunity to eliminate the barrel extension clearance cut where the cone failures occured.

I have many old .357 K-frames, including a 3" 65- which is just a stainless 13- and I avoid shooting Magnums out of them to save wear and tear on the cone. I also have a 4" stainless Sec.6 which I am quite fond of.

The Smith has a better trigger and the 3" carries MUCH easier then the S6. There are also many, many more grip choices for the Smith and Wesson.

So I would get both, but carry the 13 and keep the Ruger for nightstand duty.:)
 
Thx; yes I did not think the fixed sight of the Speed Six and my rear adj on my security had any bearing on the cone issue; I do agree of course it is better in the general comparison I originally asked for info on, to do fixed to fixed. Since I have a Security that’s as close as I can get until I fill the 3 gun set, and I will be keeping my Security regardless of any differences. Afa heavier rounds, I like to shoot a box of magnums as well as +p and many more of standard .38 loads when I get out, so unless I am shooting way more magnums in the future (which I don’t with then 2 .357 revolvers) I imagine the Smith will be fine whenever I get one. I enjoy the history of diff firearm cos. As told thru the physically in hand progression of the guns involved , so my wanted list never seems to shrink for some reason . That’s the Red list; not the MUCH smaller black list my wife sees, lol.
I have done a trigger job and a bit lighter hammer spring as I do to most Ruger revolvers that have been around over the years and do agree that generally the S&W comes outta the factory with better triggers, at least in the past
From those I have shot. Dunno how the 13 escaped me; guess I need a new friend that has one here to get my fix until funds permit.
 
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I have a Model 66 that I have shot quite a few full power 158gr magnums through and it has forcing cone erosion.
 
I have a Security Six and a Smith model 19. The trigger is better on the Smith, the Ruger is built stronger. When I reach in the safe for a 357 revolver, I usually pick the Ruger, it just fits me better.
 
I may have guns mixed up but I thought the model 13 had a recall because the firing pin bushing that was too large a hole and with 357 loads sometimes the firing pin would stick in the primer and tie up the gun. S&W would install a different firing pin bushing if you sent the gun in. So if you are considering a model 13 make sure it was sent in to be repaired. If not you will want to have it fixed.

I have two Security Six guns, both 4" barrels and they are fantastic shooters.
 
Speed Six has a round butt, Service Six has a square butt. Both have fixed sights.

Note: you can make a round butt from a square butt. This was done at the factory on several occasions to quickly complete special orders.
 
The 3" Model 13 would be my choice, but the 3" K Frames are getting harder to find and the prices are going up. I see 4" Model 13 and 65's going for half of what the 3" are going for. I think either gun you mentioned is going to be a good choice. Neither is a bad gun. If I were going to carry it any, I'd go with the 3" for cocealability as well as the fixed sights are all you need for self defense. For range use only, I'd go with the 4" and get one with adjustable sights, either the Ruger or step up to a S&W Model 19
 
Ratshooter

I believe the firing pin fix was on S&W L frames. I had it done on my Model 686.

You may be correct Bannock. I was relying on my always shaky memory. I have a memory like a steel trap. And old rusty doesn't work so well anymore steel trap.:(

Yep, the more I think about it the more I think you are right.
 
I had a 2 3/4" Ruger Speed-Six back in the day. I remember it being a nice gun, and I remember thinking it wasn't much different than my Model 19 I'd bought a few months or so before.

I've got a 4", Security-Six in the safe now. I've got a 3" Model 13-4, with a 3" barrel, and round butt on hold right now. I hope to pick it up today.

Which one is best? I got no idea. I like both. I don't worry about wearing either out. I won't shoot either enough to ever worry about that. I couldn't tell you which one has the best trigger. I don't think of one as being better than the other. They're different, but I can't say how much difference there really is or if it matters to me.

I usually buy Smith and Wesson because I think they look better.

Not much help was I?
 
I was issued a S&W model 13 with round butt grips and a 3 inch barrel. Our carry ammo was the 110 grain jhp .357 magnum round. A few years after it was issued, a warning went out. We had a crack forcing cone in one of the guns and it was blamed on the 125 grain jhp ammo that another branch of my organization was using in their heavier RUGER'S. I was qualifying with the model 13 and a S&W 681 with a 4 inch barrel. When the firearms instructors saw that I had an L-frame, they gave me the 125 grain ammo to qualify with and then six boxes to practice with as they were under orders to send the 125 grain ammo back or use it in other than K-frame guns. I got another few boxes later on.
I still used the model 13 as it was lighter and easier to conceal when I was off duty. I would not shoot 125 grain ammo in a K-frame if I had a choice or a RUGER Six for that matter. The guns were too light for the recoil, even though the RUGER was stronger than the S&W and probably could take it.

The model 13 had quality control issues. My academy class was issued 46 guns and there were problems with about 13 of them. Mine had the sideplate screws torqued so strongly, they could not be taken out. 1 gun, would not fire at all and another was spitting lead.
A lot of S&W guns at this time had problems. It has improved a lot, I am happy to say.

The 125 grain ammo works fine in an L-frame or RUGER GP-100 because both of those guns were designed around that round. The extra weight helps with the recoil and recovery time between shots, while the K-frame size grip on the L-frame makes it easier to handle than the N-frame guns if you have average size hands.

I no longer have any K-frame .357's and my RUGER Security Six normally gets shot with +P .38 Special ammo when not shooting the Air Force ball load or wadcutters.

Jim
 
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