S&W model 2 ?

[Ramrunner]

Recently traded a S&W 357 Highway Patrolman for a #2 or #3 topbreak. It is 38 S&W cal. It is excelent condition, there is no wear on the nickel plateing at all. There is very little sign on the cylinder that it has ever been shot. The grips are in perfect condition. The Serial # 4259XX. I would like to know the date of production and narrow down the model #. It could be a #2 to the #5?. I know it was made in the late 1800's or early 1900's, so I'm wondering if it should be shot with black powder or if it will handle mordern ammo. I reload the cal. so I plan on mild loads anyway. I'm going to try to post pictures.

I also got in trade 1939 standard German bayonet, German dress bayonet, & a shorter German Stag grip bayonet, plus $20. I think I did OK. I like the older stuff anyway.



Thanks Have a wonderful Day Ramrunner

 

[Jim Watson]

Looks like a S&W Double Action Fourth Model made 1895 - 1909.
I don't have anything that shows the exact year but your serial number is near the middle of the run 322701-539000.

Yours has been replated, note the dished screw and pin holes and the plated hammer and trigger which S&W left in case colors even on factory nickel guns.

No doubt there are people who will tell you not to shoot a 110 year old gun, but I fire my Single Action Second Model with factory .38S&W, as do a lot of Cowboy shooters in pocket pistol events.

However, an advanced S&W collector once told me that the early double action S&Ws like yours were a fragile design, as bad to break down as a Colt Lightning. A friend has a nice one on the shelf... except it lacks a cylinder stop, which is a long thin self-sprung part in those guns. I sure would not shoot it much.

 

[deadin]

Your pictures are too small to see much detail, but from your description and serial number, you have a .38 Double Action 4th Model. The serial range on these was 322701 to 539000 and made from 1895 to 1909. Yours appears to fall right about in the middle of the range, so it is probably post 1900. The only way to be certain is to get a factory letter ($30.00) on it.
As for shooting it, if t's clean and tight I wouldn't have any qualms using soft smokeless loads in it. Just keep the pressures down.

Dean

 

[Johnny Guest]

A replate, certainly.

Jim Watson is such an advanced student of revolvers, it is presumptious of me to even agree with him. In addition to what he wrote, however, I note "turned over" edges where the barrel and frame pivot together, and the fit of the sideplate. These items were carefully polished at the factory while assembled, and once blued or plated showed only a fine line in what appeared a solid piece of metal.

While this break top type of revolver came to be disdained after the advent of the swing-out-cylinder S&Ws, they were the top of the line product for many years. And S&W's close attention to fit-and-finish was legendary.

Your revolver looks as if it would be a good shooter. There's a certain retro fascination with practicing defensive shooting the way our ancestors might have done.

Best
Johnny

 

[Jim K]

I hate to rain on anyone's parade, but I have to agree that the little S&W has been replated, possibly with chrome, not nickel. If there is any chance of undoing the trade and getting that Model 28 back, I strongly recommend you do so.

If not, you will have to chalk this one up to experience and take consolation in the fact that all the "experts" have been taken at one time or another, sometimes for a lot more than that.

Jim

 

[Ramrunner]

Ramrunner

Thanks Gentlemen, I don't plan on shooting this little gem too much, But I do like to shoot everything a little bit. I will reload down on the pressures. I will say that whoever replated the revolver did a really fine job. I had seen where I could order the history from S&W, and I will likely do that. Sorry the Pics turned out the way they did, I rushed them this morning. and I've never tried to post pics before. Now if I can find me a 44 Russian!!!!
Ramrunner

 

[Jim K]

[Sigh.]

Jim

 

[Old Fuff]

Now if I can find me a 44 Russian!!!!

Go to www.armchairgunshow.com

Jim is right about the trade. So far as the revolver is concerned you got hosed. However since you are interested in the 19th century S&W top-break's, (as I am to) you will find the above link to be a reliable and honest source.

 

[Jim K]

Hi, Old Fuff and guys,

I too like the old S&W top breaks, and in fact the old S&W's in general. Two of my latest acquisitions are a First Model Hand Ejector (Flayderman 5G-049) in nice condition, which cost me $400 and a 1903 .32 HE, 5th change, unfired, which cost the same. I think both prices were OK, especially the First Model, which is not rare, but pretty uncommon. I also have several other old S&W's, though not (alas) a No 1 first issue.

I don't stick to old S&W's though. Another recent acquistion is a Model 642 (yes, with the lock!) that I like once I got rid of the factory grips that tore up my hand.

Jim

 

[Old Fuff]

Another recent acquistion is a Model 642 (yes, with the lock!) that I like once I got rid of the factory grips that tore up my hand.

My 642 is an early one, without the lock. But I too got rid of the #%&& stocks that came on it.

For those that are interested in them, the S&W top-break pocket revolvers off an area of collecting where you can find examples in excellent condition for still affordable prices. Few realize it, but the wormanship and quality is equal to the best that Smith & Wesson ever turned out. These were never cheap Saturday Night Specials from any perspective.