General Geoff
Member
So I just pulled out my 63 J-frame .22lr revolver from storage and, while I remember the cylinder unlocking action being pretty stiff, it never failed to open until now. I have to use a pick to push the front spring loaded detent into the barrel lug in order for the cylinder to release and swing out. I also found that it wouldn't close on its own either, requiring me to again push the detent in for the cylinder to close.
I drove the pin out and took out the detent, and carefully hand sanded the surface with 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth it up, and that got it to close on its own again. Still won't open though.
Upon closer inspection and a comparison with another Smith .22 revolver, it appears that the spring loaded rod that's part of the ejector assembly, the one that's supposed to push that detent out of the way when you press the latch button forward, doesn't come all the way flush with the end of the ejector cylinder, even when pushed fully forward. This causes the detent to stay snagged on the ejector where the knurling is.
Is this something I should send out to S&W for repair? Anyone else ever had a similar problem?
edit; RESOLVED! I took it further apart by removing the cylinder from the frame, and when I went to unscrew the extractor from the cylinder, I found it was already quite loose. Spun it down and tightened it, put it back together and the cylinder opens and closes perfectly now.
I drove the pin out and took out the detent, and carefully hand sanded the surface with 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth it up, and that got it to close on its own again. Still won't open though.
Upon closer inspection and a comparison with another Smith .22 revolver, it appears that the spring loaded rod that's part of the ejector assembly, the one that's supposed to push that detent out of the way when you press the latch button forward, doesn't come all the way flush with the end of the ejector cylinder, even when pushed fully forward. This causes the detent to stay snagged on the ejector where the knurling is.
Is this something I should send out to S&W for repair? Anyone else ever had a similar problem?
edit; RESOLVED! I took it further apart by removing the cylinder from the frame, and when I went to unscrew the extractor from the cylinder, I found it was already quite loose. Spun it down and tightened it, put it back together and the cylinder opens and closes perfectly now.
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