S&W revolver - cylinder does not turn

[The Lone Haranguer]

I just discovered that one of my "safe queens," a nickel 6 1/2-inch 29-2, has a cylinder rotation problem. It turns and locks up fine when cocking the hammer manually, but when the trigger is pulled in DA, the cylinder does not turn. The hammer moves back and drops as it is supposed to, but there is not even a hint of cylinder rotation.

It sits in a dry safe, up on a rack so as not to rest on or otherwise touch the interior of the safe, and I removed the grips and there is no sign of rust. It has not been fired - and then only a little - since 2004, and it was OK then. I will probably take it to a gunsmith since I don't have the tools and the sideplate is tightly fitted, but I would be interested in finding out what went wrong.

 

[Old Fuff]

I suspect it may be a case of the lubrication drying out, or a problem with the hand spring. Both conditions would be minor. Cock the hammer and let a little CLP dribble down the hammer face. Then open the cylinder and put a drop or two on the face of the hand. Rotate the cylinder on the yoke while the cylinder is open to make sure it isn't sticking, and then close it and see if the double action improves.

If none of this works it's time to see a gunsmith.

 

[Seafarer12]

I think it is ruined, send it to me and I will take care of it.

 

[hexidismal]

OK, this one has me confounded.. Why ? Because it's technically impossible. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it isn't happening.. I'm just saying it shouldn't be able to happen.. but things that can't happen .. well, they do sometimes..

Really though. Are you absolutely positive that your findings in regards to single vs. double action are consistently true ? It's FAR more likely that the hand sometimes pushed the cylinder and sometimes didn't. Is it possible that it just happened by chance to move on the turns when you were cocking the hammer ? See, I say it seems impossible because whether your finger pulls the trigger, or the hammer pulls the trigger upward from the back.. either way the hand is going to go up. Its either going to catch and rotate the cylinder or its not. It could be a worn hand, worn notches on the cylinder, hand spring bind.. but none of those things would explain why it would operate as you describe.

The only even vague possibly I can conceive as to how that might be possible if if the hole for the triggers post was opened up too large. Then it would be possible that a pull from the front could push the hand out of alignment, whereas a push from the rear as the pressure imposed by the hammer would do on maunal cock might keep the hand pushed forward and into the clyinder notches. BUT that's not at ALL likely. Just possible.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

Curiouser and curiouser

If I pull the trigger in DA with my left hand (I am right handed), the cylinder turns. Or, if I apply sideways pressure to the left side of the trigger while pulling it (right hand this time), the cylinder turns. But a normal finger movement with my right hand? No go.

The only even vague possibly I can conceive as to how that might be possible if if the hole for the triggers post was opened up too large. Then it would be possible that a pull from the front could push the hand out of alignment, whereas a push from the rear as the pressure imposed by the hammer would do on maunal cock might keep the hand pushed forward and into the clyinder notches. BUT that's not at ALL likely. Just possible.

In view of the above finding, you may have hit on something.

The little shooting I've done with this revolver (purchased in 2000) has been mostly in the SA mode, since that target trigger painfully gouges my finger after only a few pulls, but if there were some ongoing problem I had to have noticed it.

 

[Jim K]

Is it possible that in changing from DA to SA that you point the gun downward? If the hand spring is broken or sticking, the hand could fail to engage if the gun is horizontal or pointing up, but engage from gravity if the gun is pointing downward.

Unless the gun has been fired a lot more than you indicate, I can't see wear being a problem.

Jim

 

[Old Fuff]

If it's not a case of needing lubrication, the next most likely syspect would be the hand or the hand spring.

Inside the trigger is a small spring, one leg of which rests on a very little pin in the hand. If this pin is bent or broken the hand might behave in the way you describe. Another remote possibility is the stud (pin) the trigger or hammer pivot on is broken or bent.

In any case, at this point it is going to be necessary to remove the sideplate, and possibly other parts to see what's going on under the hood. Since you don't want to try this (which is very wise - I wish more people had your common sense) it would be best to take the revolver to a gunsmith that has the knowledge and right tools, or return it to Smith & Wesson. If you call their customer service department I believe they will pay for the shipping both ways, and any needed repairs may be done under warantee. That's hard too beat, and you'll be more sure about the quality of the work. If a hammer or trigger stud has to be replaced it's a factory job - period.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

The lubrication didn't help.

... it would be best to take the revolver to a gunsmith that has the knowledge and right tools, or return it to Smith & Wesson. If you call their customer service department I believe they will pay for the shipping both ways, and any needed repairs may be done under warantee. That's hard too beat, and you'll be more sure about the quality of the work. If a hammer or trigger stud has to be replaced it's a factory job - period.

Well, a phone call to Smith & Wesson can't hurt. It is at least 30 years old (N3574XX), but surely they would still work on it. Given its potential value, I don't want just anyone messing with it.

 

[Old Fuff]

I think it would be best to return it to S&W because if it's a case of a broken hammer or trigger stud (possible but not probable) it would have to go to the factory anyway. If the problem was defined that would be one thing, but it isn't. When you don't have the answer it's a good idea to send it in. They will give the gun a full inspection, and discover ANYTHING that needs attention, and yes - they will work on it if the can. The only reason they wouldn't is if it required parts they didn't have or couldn't get.