S&W Single Action trigger problem

[Caedo]

So, I was dry firing my S&W 66 to practice trigger control, and something happened.

In single action, if I squeeze the trigger, instead of the hammer dropping normally, the hammer resets. It's hard to describe; the hammer falls, but the trigger snaps forward and the transfer bar actuates, so the firing pin never travels through the firing pin channel.

I can make a recording of this if I'm not being clear enough. I have never heard of this happening with a double action revolver and it's a little concerning.

To give a better description, I can say that if I snag the trigger in single action it functions normally, but if it is squeezed as it should be, the hammer falls and the trigger resets on its own, as if it were being let down manually, except at a very fast pace.

Has anyone had this happen to them? Is there any fix? I checked the tension on the leaf spring and it's as tight as it will go; loosening it only seems to make the problem worse.

 

[Strykervet]

Not sure for a fact, but you can crack it open and find out. Will have to in fact. Just use the right screwdrivers and be careful, don't pry with anything. Those side plates can be stuck on there so be careful.

Likely something is loose or broken, or you could have junk or debris in there. It happens. The inside is basically simple lockwork, so you should be able to find the problem rather quickly.

I have a few Smith's and they've all been cracked open for something or another. If you are unsure, Youtube has some videos. If you are skeptical of your abilities after watching a couple of videos on it, take it in or send it back.

Next time someone tells you revolvers don't jam, you can laugh in their faces like me. And that isn't the only "jam" scenario either.

 

[Red Cent]

http://www.genitron.com/Basics/Revolver/P2Revolver.html

 

[rcmodel]

Sounds to me like something is stuck with dried oil & grease.

You do not "crack" or pry the side plate to get it off.

Follow this Sticky in THR revolver forum to learn how to take a sideplate off properly, and inspect or clean the lock-work without damaging the revolver.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=397027

If you don't have the proper gunsmith screwdrivers, or feel unqualified to muck around inside, call S&W for shipping instructions.
It will be as good as new when you get it back.

rc

 

[BBBBill]

Inexpert trigger jobs will sometimes manefest this due to folks stoning too much or in the wrong place mucking up the timing.

 

[JimPGov]

Tighten the strain screw. Your hammer stirrup is hitting the rebound slide. Tightening the screw will place the correct arch on the spring and correct the problem. Jp

 

[Old Fuff]

Don't be in a hurry to disassemble anything unless: (1) You know exactly how to do it, and (2) have the correct tools - in particular screwdrivers and pin punches.

After inspecting the chambers to be sure they are unloaded, cock the hammer and place something like a wood pencil between the hammer face and frame, so that the hammer will be blocked if it falls.

Next, use the ball of your thumb and push hard on the back of the hammer spur. See if the hammer stays cocked or falls. I suspect that the hammer is getting caught by a little lever in its face, called the "sear," because the trigger doesn't get out of the way in time when you gently squeeze it.

If it falls or catches it would probably be best to send it back to S&W and let them fix it. "home-fix'n" often makes it worse.

 

[Caedo]

I want to take a second to thank everyone who replied with such haste. I've never been disappointed with the people at THR when something comes up.

Anyway, I guess I probably should have mentioned that I've taken the weapon apart several times and I did when I saw this problem arise. My major concern, though, was the fact that there appeared to be nothing wrong with it. It's clean as a whistle inside.

Then I checked for hammer push-off, like the last reply suggested, and sure enough the hammer pushes off. I have one question though: why would this be happening? The sear appears to be in fine condition, and there are no broken pieces or worn out surfaces that I can see. The gun is 39 years old, so I do understand an issue or two appearing in almost four decades, but it's still curious to me as to why it would be happening.

I'll be contacting S&W in the morning to see about a fix. Thank you again everyone!

 

[BruceM]

If you have push off, the DA sear has been bubba'd. Time for it to go home to the factory or a competent Smith & Wesson armorer for fitting of a new sear. The sear may look great to you but it has been stoned both excessively and incorrectly. The only fix is to have a new one fitted.

Bruce

 

[Fleet]

The gun is 39 years old, so I do understand an issue or two appearing in almost four decades, but it's still curious to me as to why it would be happening.

It may have been bubba'd at some point in its life, or it could just be worn from use and a lack of lubrication.

 

[Old Fuff]

I can think of a number of reasons, some way off in left field. But without having the gun speculation is sort of useless. Smith & Wesson will diagnose whatever it is correctly, and also fix anything else they discover. After a length of time revolvers are like any other kind of machine - they may need some inspection and a professional tune-up.

 

[Jim K]

That problem can be caused by failure in either the SA hammer notch or the sear, which is part of the trigger. Those areas will usually last a long time, but obviously can wear eventually, not to mention damage caused by such things as dropping the gun on a cocked hammer.

Jim

 

[Dibber]

Hi everyone...had the same problem myself. My Dad left me a 3" Model 629 with the same problem of "just pressing the trigger" and he hammer falls and pushes the trigger back to reset at the same time. Attendent to this problem was "hammer push-off" (when you can cock the revolver and then make the hammer fall just by pushing it with your thumb). The gun probably won't fire because as the trigger resets (as the hammer falls), the hammer block stops the firing pin from contacting the primer; nonetheless, this makes the gun unreliable,and, because it is unreliable, perhaps even dangerous.

It turns out that someone who didn't know what he was doing had done a "triggerr job" on it and really screwed up the trigger sear. I fixed it (it has a wonderful trigger, now) using a sear fixture from Power Custom. Here are some links to get you to the right place so you can fix it yourself.

http://www.blackjackbuffers.com/index.php?main_page=specials and
http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main page=specials

Choose the proper one for your gun and your trigger, follow the instructions and your trigger should be sweet, right and tight. Hope this helps. - Clay

 

[Sunray]

OP is 7 years old.

 

[Dibber]

Yeah, I know. I was just hoping that my experience might help someone who was perusing this blog.