SAA clones any difference?

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What are the differences Between a Taylor's, Uberti, a Stoeger Uberti and the Uberti branded gun.

I see them for sale online at Bud's and they all look the same.
There is a $200 price spread between the Taylor and the Stoeger so what do you get from Taylors vs Uberti and Stoeger and is it worth the price difference?

Thanks
 
"... they all look the same."

Maybe because they are all made in the same Italian factory by the same workers. The importers usually do nothing but take boxes out of a container and put them in boxes to be sent to retailers. Some importers do have the factory tweak something so they can claim an exclusive feature, but there are no basic differences.

Jim
 
Cimarron has the best finish of all. All my BP pistols and rifles are from Cimarron. Buffalo Arms also sells Cimarron firearms for a little cheaper.
 
It is usually a matter of degree of finish and fitting.

The importer can specify how guns, that they order, should be fitted...and it will usually be reflected in the price they pay.

It is much like the STI Spartan which is made in the same factory as the Rock Island Armory 1911s. Final assembly/fitting is separated
 
The importer can specify how guns, that they order, should be fitted...and it will usually be reflected in the price they pay.
That's the myth that gets perpetuated but it's only the product of marketing.

I have Uberti guns from Cimarron, Taylor's, Dixie Gun Works and Stoeger and can find no discernible difference between them. Cimarron has QC techs at the Uberti factory and some importers order configurations and/or chamberings the other do not but those are the only differences. The guns all come off the same manufacturing line.

Cimarron does give the consumer the option of engraving, fancy finishes and custom grips but that is all done stateside to completed guns.

The only Italian replica I ever had to send back was a Cimarron and that was due to fit/finish issues. Its replacement remains my roughest Uberti-made firearm.
 
The importer can specify how guns, that they order, should be fitted...and it will usually be reflected in the price they pay.


Yup, that is a myth that has been going around for years. I started shooting CAS in 2001 and I remember hearing it then.

As far as Cimarron being the best, another myth. I had a Cimarron Cattleman once that had the worst trigger pull of any revolver I have ever owned. On top of that, the barrel was not screwed in correctly and the front sight leaned perceptibly to one side. Got rid of it and used the money as a down payment on a Vaquero.
 
Sample of one, but I have a Stoeger Uberti El Patron, and other than maybe that there are some sharper-than-I'd-like edges near the loading gate, I can't think of anything they could've done better as far as fit, finish, or action.

... Well, okay, I don't like the "trigger slap" when the hammer comes down, but I'm pretty sure that's just the SAA design.
 
What are the differences Between a Taylor's, Uberti, a Stoeger Uberti and the Uberti branded gun.

All are made by Uberti.
Taylor's & Co add their own touches.
As does Cimarron.

Are they better??? I don't think so.

I had a Cimarron & it did not shoot as accurately as my Uberti although both guns started life as identical twins.

But I DO have my eye on a Taylor's & Co 3 1/2" 45 Colt with a birdshead grip.
Love that checkering.

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/hand...man-checkered-birdshead-grip-45-lc-3-1-2.html

Be aware, some of Cimarron's stuff is not Uberti, it's made by Pietta.
 
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Even just comparing the Uberti guns there certainly is a difference and I have slowly culled the others and replaced with Cimarron. The Cimarron model P does not have the dumb hammer block safety built into the hammer and is like a SAA is supposed to be. It only has the two position main pin to act like a safety.

Even with the regular finishes the barrel and other markings are not done as gaudy as a regular Stoeger and for whatever reason it always seems they are just a step up on fit, finish and out of the box smoothness.

If they are nickel finished models they are done by Ford's plating and not the cheap crap that flakes off of the Stoegers and others. Also Cimarron offers "real" case color hardening with their US finish.

I am in no way associated with Cimarron I've just had enough of the different models to see the difference. The Taylor guns always seem to be a step up also.
 
Even just comparing the Uberti guns there certainly is a difference and I have slowly culled the others and replaced with Cimarron. The Cimarron model P does not have the dumb hammer block safety built into the hammer and is like a SAA is supposed to be. It only has the two position main pin to act like a safety.

Even with the regular finishes the barrel and other markings are not done as gaudy as a regular Stoeger and for whatever reason it always seems they are just a step up on fit, finish and out of the box smoothness.

If they are nickel finished models they are done by Ford's plating and not the cheap crap that flakes off of the Stoegers and others. Also Cimarron offers "real" case color hardening with their US finish.

I am in no way associated with Cimarron I've just had enough of the different models to see the difference. The Taylor guns always seem to be a step up also.
If your guns is 5-6 years old or less, and it doesn't have the hammer safgety, it's most likely a Pietta, not a Uberti.

Take a look under the barrel. What does it say, A. Uberti-Italy, or Pietta-Italy?

And what exactly is the definition of "real" case color hardening. I doubt they use bone and charcoal in the process.
 
And what exactly is the definition of "real" case color hardening. I doubt they use bone and charcoal in the process.

Howdy Again

None of the Italian imports uses traditional bone Case Hardening. They use a chemical dip that adds a little bit of hardness and some color. If they were using traditional bone Case Hardening, they would cost a lot more because true Case Hardening is a labor intensive, expensive process.
 
Driftwood, you are partially right that the Italians don't import anything but the chemical fake case coloring but you are wrong that none of the Italian imports are available with real case coloring.

The Cimarron US finish is not the chemical fake case coloring applied by the Italians.

The finish is called US finish because it is done here in the US. I have even sent additional parts off of my Cimarron guns to the same people to get them CCH to match and had them do other firearms parts for me. Great people and do great work.

http://classicgunsinc.com/
 
If your guns is 5-6 years old or less, and it doesn't have the hammer safgety, it's most likely a Pietta, not a Uberti.

Take a look under the barrel. What does it say, A. Uberti-Italy, or Pietta-Italy?

And what exactly is the definition of "real" case color hardening. I doubt they use bone and charcoal in the process.
Wrong, I have two new model P Uberti Cimarron's with the Ford's nickel plating. Neither have the hammer safety in them.
 
"Dumb" safety?

For those of us that like to keep six (instead of 5) in our carry guns, that "dumb" safety is the best mechanical safety shy of the transfer bar. The base pin safety is more likely to get you in "trouble" if that's what you choose (ask a cas/SASS shooter who uses one).

Besides, a S.A.A. doesn't have a two position base pin. (Like a real S.A.A. should have)

"Dumb" ( thank goodness) isn't universal.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
"Dumb" safety?

For those of us that like to keep six (instead of 5) in our carry guns, that "dumb" safety is the best mechanical safety shy of the transfer bar. The base pin safety is more likely to get you in "trouble" if that's what you choose (ask a cas/SASS shooter who uses one).

"Dumb" ( thank goodness) isn't universal.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
Then why not buy a Ruger where it is truly safe to carry six? Many of us prefer a SAA action to be like it was originally designed. Although I have to admit to liking the coil spring plunger hand spring.
 
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So, what kind of ammo should I use?
What kind of car should I buy?
Where should I move to or is where I live now OK?

You people that seem to be above the rest of us and always want to tell us what, how , when where and why.

Like I said, thank goodness "Dumb" isn't universal.
My El Patron IS truly safe to carry six.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
See, that's how different people are. Just because you may not like something, that's your choice. The spring and plunger hand mechanism works but it does a poor job of keeping throw-by (over rotation) at bay. The original setup is actually a progressive tension setup that works rather well. So I prefer the original setup over the spring and plunger as far as function goes.
You can use a Ruger to illustrate "throw-by" at will.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
I personally never paid much attention to the safeties. I figure they are intended only to get the guns stateside and that no one really intends folks to actually use them.


And what exactly is the definition of "real" case color hardening. I doubt they use bone and charcoal in the process.
To confirm what Cliff said, the "US finish" option is real bone charcoal case coloring and that is done by a domestic 3rd party, Classic Arms.
 
yeah to each his own I guess but I've actually had more trouble with throw by from weakening traditional hand springs. Once set I never have trouble with the coil springs.

I certainly would rather trust a modern transfer bar action for carrying six rather than some cheesy lawyer safety add on to a 150 year old design. I would never carry six even with the hammer block models, if the gun was dropped how could I be assured the hammer or pin couldn't break and still allow a discharge?
 
Regarding the safeties. The two position base pin doesn't bother me. If the slight extra protrusion bothers someone they could shorten the pin or replace it.

The hammer block mechanism in the hammer is what I never liked. First it just doesn't look right and it's one more thing that could get gummed up and cause a malfunction particularly when you shoot only black powder as I do.
 
Yeah, I guess you're right, base pins never work loose. And I guess S.A.A.s had them (the two position pins), I just didn't know.
How do you set your coil springs up? I always like learning. I could set my Rugers up correctly.



Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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I just go by how it seems they should feel with a good original type hand spring. I just work the action and push the hand with the cylinder out.

I usually take the little screw out and let the grip frame hold the spring and plunger in. Sometimes then I have to either stretch the stock spring slightly or use one from a bic lighter. Also mirror polish the back of the hand where the plunger slides.
 
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