Safe time!

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KY DAN

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https://www.ruralking.com/88-gun-firesafe-10-gun-cabinet-13185

So after watching videos on youtube of gun safes being broken into I notice some common attributes that determine the ease or difficulty of this task. With that said it is my believe that nothing avaiable to the civilian market is impervious to "cracking" however it appears that following simple guide lines can greatly improve the security you have with a import "bargain safe".

#1 Don't show case your safe, its not furniture and it's certainly not intended to be a topic of conversation for every visitor in your home. ( I have a preacher friend that brags of the size of his gun safe, and yes shows it to everyone who visits his living room)

#2 Corners and walls are always your friend. Any place that does not allow leverage is a BIG plus

#3 Bolt it down! I can not stress this enough any place you can get a bolt do it, if it means drilling holes, using all thread and going thru the floor and the walls do it. If the safe can't be flipped you buy yourself time.( Remember according to the FBI most and i say MOST burglaries are less than 12 mins)

#4 The openings of your safe let tools come in. The $##,### plus safes will not hardly allow a credit card to enter the side openings of doors. (My thought for a fix is to weld 4 '' steel strips around the door covering the openings out to the edges of the frame?

#5 Lets just face it 10-14 gauge steel can be peeled all day with harbor freight cut off wheels and since that is what the majority of safes are it just means your screwed. So how do we change this, simple we armor clad it and that is open to your own interpretation . The safe listed above in my mind can be made "hard" with a simple concrete form mold assuming its going in a out building and all efforts are made to bolt it down.For interior service plate steel from 1/8'' to 1/4'' attached via weld or at least a copious amount of bolts would be better than nothing when applied to all accessible panels of the safe.

With everything said lets use the above safe as the article of discussion for improving and securing.
 
I have looked at multiple types of safes and have come to a very simple conclusion. None of them are perfect. They need only to be durable enough to dissuade the average burglar, or discrete enough to not be found. Hidden in plain sight is a very real thing. I know exactly where my wife’s uncles safe is, what is in it, and I have been in it... but I couldn’t find it again if I tried. Elusive means confusing, frustrating, and time exhausting. Hardened means even more time and frustration. When I feel I have moved for the last time in a long while I will firmly secure a safe. Anchored directly to a yard of reinforced concrete and in a location very difficult to simply stumble upon. I have considered a bank vault before, but they too have flaws and are expensive, but they are very hard to conceal.
 
#6 Reinforce the bolts/door edge from being pried open (Twisted bolts)(See U-Tube)

I spent more than that on my Sturdy, but when my house was broken into, it saved my guns. They had plenty of time
 
put the side of the safe or cabinet with the lock against a wall. if you watch the videos of people cracking safes, they end up prying the door open at the lock. If the side of the safe is against a wall, you can't get any leverage to pry it open.
 
Look for used safes. Talk to local Locksmiths, Safe Movers, & shop Craigslist then be patient. Do go for the fancy looking safe but the old school heavy safe with lots of steel.
 
Never buy a "Safe" that doesn't have details about the steel, components (UL rated lock?), or how it is built. That safe is being sold on "value" alone by size and price. Never buy based on those if you really want some security.
 
I'm an apartment dweller. And I've moved several times over the last 15 or 20 years (gotta follow the work.)
First thing I look for in an apartment: Where do I put the safe? It has to be (1) not visible from any window and (2) not visible from the doorway.
 
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