School me on flintlocks

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Jessesky

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I consider myself a pretty advanced collector. However, one area which has evaded me is flintlocks! I’m a complete novice!

I’ve had the opportunity to pick up a couple of original .54 pistols from the 19th century and couldn’t resist the history behind them. I certainly want to shoot them, but being original I’d like to take extra care in preserving their finish and condition.

For you black powder guys, what advice do you have for cleaning, powder types, loads, loading methods, and general tips and tricks.

Jesse
 
Eric Bye's book, Flintlocks: A Practical Guide for Their Use and Appreciation is good.

If you want to go simple, the NRA/NMLRA guidbook to muzzleoading. It covers rifles, shotguns/fowlers and pistols (both revolvers and single shots).
 
hot soppy water is your friend, don't use any petroleum based oils/lube. some guys will use 3f for flash powder an in the bore, lighter loads seem to shoot best. don't get powder in the flash hole hen you fill the pan, you would think powder in there would be better but it's not. have fun.
 
Use real black powder. The substitutes have a high flash temp that doesnt work as well. They seem more corrosive too.
4f in the pan for best results. 3f will work.
Ballistol is good cleaner/patch lube.
So is Hoppes BP solvent.(my favorite).
Match your round ball a patch material so that their sum is about .005 bigger that your(edit...I meant bore)....ie .440 ball + .015 patch = .455 for a .45cal.
Pillow ticking or pocket drill fabric is best for patches. Or you could buy them .....lol.
 
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If you SHOULD decide to go with a modern black powder substitute, I have had success with first loading a small charge of 4F powder then loading a charge of modern powder on top of it. Seat the ball solid and prime the pan with 4F.

Modern powder can be tough to ignite with a flintlock action. The small charge of 4F in the barrel helps the modern substitute powder ignite. Works for me.
 
Stick with black powder, you can use the same powder for the pan as you do for the main charge. Make sure the lock sparks well. Use only enough powder in the pan to barely cover the bottom. Clean immediately after you get done shooting. You'll do just fine.
 
Sounds like fun!
To clarify, “modern powder” mentioned above is NOT smokeless powder. Use only actual black powder or a specifically designated black powder substitute. Or you will have a bad day.
 
I use Alliant Black MZ in my flintlocks. Has a lower ignition point than the other subs, is less expensive at $10 a pound and is virtually non corrosive. It is kind of chunky bout a 2F granulation. I grind small amounts for my priming horn.
 
Wear your shooting glasses!. Get behind a flintlock and what comes out of that pan, is like very hot sand, and it goes right into your eyes!
 
I have hunted exclusively with flintlocks for nearly 20 years and rarely shoot anything else at all. I got my first one in the 1960s. 1. Use real black powder. 2. Clean with water and thoroughly dry, don't be afraid to use denatured alcohol to get that last drop out. 3. You can use gun oils/WD40/etc to protect the bore as long as you swab it with alcohol patches before shooting. 4. Barricade can't be beat for protecting the bore. It dries and doesn't even have to be swabbed out; it does dry, ya' know. 5. Get with some EXPERIENCED flinters to help you; not some other tyro who knows less than you.
 
Black MZ works in my pedersoli 50 flinter and my Bess.

Clean with water and dish soap or possibly just a touch of simple green.

I use ballistol to oil the bore.

The 50 likes a cleaning patch with mineral oil and 60 grains of powder.
 
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For plinking maybe 25 to 35grs of 3F - hunting 50 to 60 [ it's a pistol ]. I use a piece of medium weight leather to hold the flint in the jaws. Find some flints that will just allow the frizzen to close and barely not touch. Get some that are sharp on both ends so they can be turned around. Call Dixie Gun Works and tell them how far it is from the screw in the lock used to hold the flint in place and the frizzen at half cock. They will be glad to help. "Track of the Wolf" would also be helpful. Get English flints. I've only used BP so can't talk about the subs. Hot soapy water, then clear water for cleaning, and although many talk against regular gun oil it's all I've used for 49 years and Rem-oil has served me well. Oh, look for pure cotton in the fabric stores. Make sure it doesn't have " sizing " in it. Pillow ticking is usually around .010 thickness. A .530 or 535 RB and pillow ticking should work in a 54. Let us know how you do.
 
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