Semi auto buying tips

[Rugertommy]

OK....here we go!!..I'm looking for any help you all can offer in choosing a semi auto handgun. I haven't been able to find anything simular to the wheel gun check out for revolvers. Just the if you see this it's probably not a good one type stuff. I haven't really decided on a cal. or make but I am looking hard at the Walther P99 in .40 cal. I like the way it feels and looks. I just really don't know what to look for when I'm at the counter checking it out. I am very familiar with and own a number of revolvers but I feel kinda out of the loop when it comes to semi autos. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Chupacabra]

If you can, try before you buy. Picking one out of the display case, racking the slide and dry firing IMO doesn't provide enough for an informed buy. Go to a range that has a bunch of semi-autos for rent, pick 3 or 5 that you are interested in and put as many rounds as you can afford through them. Then go back and try out a few more. The biggest thing for me when picking out my first auto was finding one that had a comfortable trigger. SW99 and Glock triggers felt really weird, but I really liked the triggers on H&K USPs and Sigs (and later, the 1911)

Try different calibers too. You may have your heart set on a .40, but find out later you really love the .45

 

[Black Snowman]

I don't know, renting a 1911 dispelled a lot of my unwarented prejeduces against them and now I'm buying one in 10mm. Could be a dangerous thing

Good advice though, have friends/relatives let you shoot all their handguns and rent whatever you can. You'll never know what you'll end up liking. I started with a Glock 24P, added a Browning Buckmark 5.5 Nickle Target, a Taurus 669 revlover, a Desert Eagle .50 AE and now I'm getting the 1911. I just have no loyalty at all

 

[Rugertommy]

thanks for the info. I've handled and fired a number of semi autos just never really kicked the tires so to speak. I have experiences with glocks (don't care too much for how they feel in my hand). Rugers but, I think they are a little too blocky/heavy(at least the ones I tried out). I've fired one of Sprinfield Armory's offerings it was ok but had seen a lot of use and felt rather loose. There have been others that I have tried but they were all range guns or borrowed. I'm not really settled on a .40 hell even a .9mm if it fills the bill. I liked the .45s too. I would feel more comfortable with a solid gun. The cal. would be second to that. I feel that with all of the ammo options out there that just about any cal. can get the job done.

 

[Ford]

It all depends
For what ?
What size...Full Size, Service, Compact, Ultra Compact?
How much $$$ you wanna spend?

I love 1911's.
IMO the best guns for the money out there
Government...... Kimber Custom.... in my area $650 to $750
Compact ... Springfield Compact . .... about $650... although I like Kimbers a little more but for about the same gun in a Kimber you are looking at about another $75 to $100
I don't have a 3" 1911 so can't help you much their.

For non-1911's I think that bar none the best value out their is Springfield Armory's XD line. I like mine better than my Glocks. YES YES. Glocks are great blah blah I know. I think they are good guns yes. I personally like the grip angle and the thinner grip of the XD. I also think that the XD has a better trigger. You can get one of these for under $500 all day long.

 

[Rugertommy]

If would help, I'm looking for a full sized leaning towards a polymer framed semi auto. I've tended to stay with stainless in the revolvers I have. Though I wouldn't be opposed to getting something blued.I like the tenifer(sp?) of the glocks or the one Walther is using. As far as $ goes I'm would like to keep it around the $600 dollar range. I would be using it for just about everything. Right now I carry a 4 inch GP100. I know that many say that something that size isn't the best choice for a ccw but I have no problem with it. As I've said before I'm really just looking for some general do's and don'ts when looking at any particular semi auto. But, if the make and model is that relevent then I would be interested in the Walther P99 or maybe a well....hell who knows what! I just know that there are certin things that you look for when inspecting any revolver regardless of cal. or make and I was hoping for some similar pointers for the semi autos

 

[sm]

Another Vote for Try before you buy. I also suggest you try the holsters too. When I assisted in CCW we had a variety of guns and holsters. We actually preferred/suggested students try first, and with holsters.

I also would suggest you use the search function, the float at the top for firearm recall info, ask questions here...and there are forums for specific guns. ( Glocks, Sigs, 1911s...).

I prefer 1911 style for 45 ACP. BHP in 9mm ,and for wheelies I like the old smiths. Always have been, one of these has always been my CCW (primary and/or BUG). I only own one polymer gun, it fills a "niche", I won't own another.

BTW I prefer blued guns, though I do have some stainless...has to do with the quality of metallurgy. IMNSHO.

 

[10-Ring]

Here's another vote for try before you buy There aren't many bad choices in polymer gun niche. Do a little homework, shoot the contenders on your list & buy the one that works best for you. Me, I always recommend the HK USP to those asking So, in your case, the USP 40 would be my choice. Go check out cdnn, they've got a good deal on them right now.

 

[NEtracker]

I'll agree on that. Try the ones you are interested in either by renting, or better, if you have friends with them.
I can say that for me, my Walther P99 9mm has been a consistant performer, but some of my friends can't seem to hit paper with it.
The same can pick up my Hi Power 9mm and punch out the black.
For Bullseye work, I go to my BHP or my 1911 .45ACP.
(Sidenote, Wheelguns are fun at the range and a good training tool, but I just find my 4" 686 a bit heavy for carry)

 

[Sean Smith]

Most people are missing the topic starter's point. Look at the sticky topic under the Wheelguns section concerning things to check out prior to buying a revolver. It is bascially "look at this stuff to make sure your gun will work right" type info.

Autoloader designs vary alot more than revolver designs do. Here are some general things to check for.

ALWAYS DOUBLE-CHECK THAT THE GUN IS UNLOADED BEFORE TRYING EACH OF THESE ACTIONS.

0. Ask if you can dry-fire the gun. If you can't, I would strongly suggest not buying it, as being able to do so allows you to check several things.

1. Dry-fire the gun. Assess the trigger pull to see if it is excessively heavy, uneven, gritty, and so forth. Double-action triggers should have a long, but smooth and even pull. Single-action triggers should have a short, relatively light pull with a small amount of takeup and minimal to no creep. Good single-action triggers "break like a glass rod" and have ~5lb pulls or less.

2. Test the operation of any manual safeties. Attempt to bypass them and see if hammer falls/firing mechanism operates. For example, try to dry fire a 1911 without depressing the grip safety and/or with the thumb safety in the "safe" position. The hammer should not fall in either case.

1911-style pistols should also have a working half-cock notch, especially those without firing pin blocks. Partially cock the hammer, and it should stop short of falling against the firing pin.

3. Press the slide out of battery about 1", then pull the trigger. The firing mechanism should not operate due to the disconnector. An autoloader that will fire out of batter is in dangerous condition.

4. Test the slide-to-barrel fit by pressing the barrel hood through the ejection port. The barrel should not move, or only have VERY slight wiggle. Poor slide-to-barrel fit is the major source of inaccuracy in recoil-operated autoloaders.

5. Examine the extractor, and ensure that the extractor hook is not chipped.

6. Check the slide to frame fit. Some wiggle is acceptable, here, and will not impact accuracy. Extreme excessive play will result in impaired accuracy and long-term durability, however. Conversely, extreme excessive tightness (e.g. making the gun extremely difficult to cycle by hand) will result in impaired reliability

 

[Penforhire]

The P99 takedown is so easy you should compare the innards to a NIB P99 and look for wear or damage. After thousands of rounds my barrel and slide have some mating finish wear but otherwise nothing 'different' than I would see inside a NIB gun.

The P99 has a striker block that requires the trigger to be swung through its normal arc. You might see if you can still hang-up the trigger with a straight pull at the top of the trigger. You can also check the loaded-chamber and striker position indicators with snap caps. Don't know what else to verify (how do you check .40- mags unless you fire 'em?).

 

[Rugertommy]

Thank all of you for your replys. I knew that if I asked I would get plenty of good input here. Thank you again and yes that was exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for Sean. Now I have some idea of what to look for. Am I missing something concerning .40cal mags in the P99? From what I understand the pistol was designed more or less as a 9mm and that the.40 operates at a higher pressure. I know that the slide is a bit differant on the two but was the rest of the P99 beefed up to withstand the .40 cal. pressures?

 

[Sean Smith]

Actually, the SAAMI spec'ed pressure is the same for both: 35,000 psi. 9mm +P and +P+ actually exceed .40 S&W pressures by a fair margin. .40 S&W also generates about the same, or slightly higher, muzzle energy than 9mm +P+ (400-500 ft-lbs). Recoil energy is higher for the .40 S&W, but not by a huge amount. Some ROUGH numbers from playing with a recoil calculator, assuming:

2.5lb gun for all,
Factory published velocities,
Powder charge based on Accurate Arms load data

9x19, 124gr @1,100 ft/sec, 2.63 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 8.23 fps.
9x19 +P, 124gr @1,200 ft/sec, 3.34 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 9.27 fps.
9x19 +P+, 127gr @1,250 ft/sec, 4.04 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 10.2 fps.

.40 S&W, 180gr @ 950 ft/sec, 4.31 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 10.53 fps.
.40 S&W, 165gr @ 1,150 ft/sec, 5.58 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 11.99 fps.

.45 ACP, 230gr @ 850 ft/sec, 5.3 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 11.68 fps.
.45 ACP +P, 230gr @ 950 ft/sec, 7.16 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 13.58 fps.

10mm Auto, 155gr @ 1,350 ft/sec, 7.26 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 13.67 fps.
10mm Auto, 200gr @ 1,250 ft/sec, 9.98 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 16.04 fps.

And for the curious...

.44 Magnum, 300gr @ 1,270 ft/sec, 22.47 ft.lbs and the recoil velocity is 24.06 fps.

Excess data aside, going from 9mm to .40 S&W isn't that big of a deal generally, unless the gun's design was of marginal strength for 9mm to begin with.