shotshell reloading.

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bkjeffrey

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Ive been reloading for about 6 years. I still use the same Lee single stage that I first bought to learn on, needless to say Ive upgraded to RCBS powder throwers and digital scales. But none the less, I still squeeze on a single stage. Ive had great success loading 5.56 and 308 as well as subsonic 308s.

Lately Ive been interested in reloading shotshells. Ive searched and searched the web for info. I just want something cheap and simple to learn on. I really took in interest in casting slugs a while back after watching this video:

Homemade slugs from wheel weights

The Lee loader he uses would be fine with me to start with, but what else is out there that wont break my finances?

Another interest I have is loading "short shells". I see people loading them for higher capacity in tube magazines. I'd like to find a press capable of reloading short shells.....

Thoughts?
 
I use a 35+yr old Mec 600. These can normally be had pretty cheap on the used market. With shotgun shell if your loading with shot you want a tray under the press for those minor spills that accour.
 
Well, first if you follow that DF's advice, you'll damage your gun or yourself. As the hole in his wood block gets burned out bigger, so does the "slug". Which is just a chunk of lead, hardly a precise projectile.

The most cost effective shotshell loader is the lee load-all.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=436640

It works, but is a pain to use for high production rates, and a real pain to empty the powder and shot containers. Also there's no way to make shorter shells than 2-¾.

As for a slug mold that works quite well, there's the lee key slug mold. You'll need a means to melt lead, which could be as simple as a pot on a camp stove and a ladle to pour it with;

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=770274

To load shorter shells, there's really no machine set up for that. I converted my MEC 600 jr. to load 2-½ 12 gauge with a star crimp after cutting the original 2-¾ crimp off. I also made 2" shells that used a roll crimp and the lee slug for 3 gun extended mags.

Completely unexplored territory for loads with shortened shells. As far as which powder charge, and the wad column. Without my nearly 50 years of shotgun loading experience, I would NOT have attempted it. Some shotgun actions will not function or handle the short shells.
 
first if you follow that DF's advice, you'll damage your gun or yourself.

I'm not sure what DF stands for but after watching that video, I can come up with a few good guesses. :what:

That has to be one of the most dangerous reloading video's I've seen since this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98I1i8Toj8E (which is obviously a spoof and a funny one at that; but some DF will probably take it seriously :banghead: )
 
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The Lee Load-All is crap - cheap lastic and casting with no adjustment capability- a used MEC Jr, will run 50-75 bucks on Craig's list = better yet, go to your local shotgun club (trap/skeet) and check their bulletin board - someone is always selling something

As to short shells for higher capacity - another fallacy as they tend to get hung up trying to work them into the chamber
 
There is some info at Balistic Products about loading short shotshells that they endorse but I am still leery of something like that. Also they have a excellent roll crimper and hull cutter. Short length shells should be used for manual feed arms only (single shot/double etc.) or risk disaster IMHO. I am still learning to roll my own so as such no great expert---But I try to stay safe always.:scrutiny: It is said that fools often get lucky--"Are you feeling lucky". as the say'in goes.

FWIW I have several used (read inexpensive) MEC 600 jr's with adjustable charge bars and they fit my needs well. Also I use brass hulls for 410 and reload them using 444 dies but the loading techniques are different.
 
Mr Jeffery -
Just got into this myself. Shot shell reloading is nothing like metallic reloading. In shot shell you want to get a recipe and follow it exactly. The change in any single piece changes the entire chamber pressure, usually to your detriment. In shot shell, the hull, powder, wad, and shot all work together.

If you look around there are tons of published recipes, but I've never seen one for shortening the hull. That sounds like a disaster in the making. Be safe.
 
I just started doing this a few weeks ago, and I will share with you my beginner's advice: if you can find a Mec 600 cheap that is in good working order you might want to go that route, but if you don't have aspirations of loading a few hundred shot shells and hour, you can churn out very usable ammunition at the rate of about 75 rounds an hour on the Lee Load All. It works like a champ and it includes all of the powder and shot bushings available. With a MEC or RCBS or Hornady you will need to purchase shot bars and powder bushings if the few included don't meet your needs. They are not expensive, but not super cheap either. The Lee Load All II is a complete package for about $50. For another $2.00 (+ $12 shipping :cuss: ) you can get a spare lid for the load all and cut a drain hole in it to empty out your shot and powder when you need to empty it out. Also, I did not purchase the automatic primer feeder because it's not super nessasary for shot shells. You can start the primer just by pushing it in the primer pocket by hand.

A shot shell recipe includes the specific hull, powder charge, wad, shot charge and primer. Any substitution of components is ill advised, however there is load data out there for most popular combinations. Lyman makes a great shot shell reloading book that covers pretty much everything you need to know to get you up and running. It also has exhaustive loading data. It is worth your while to get this book first if you are considering shotshell reloading.
 
You can start the primer just by pushing it in the primer pocket by hand.

Why would you do that and risk misalignment or contamination form something on your fingers.

There are a lot of possible substitutions for certain components, including wads, hulls and primers, but one needs to do one's due diligence and research in that regard

Again the Lee is mostly cheap plastic and pot metal, nothing is adjustable (the biggest issue), you still need a scale, as the bushings never drop exactly what they are supposed to
 
I'll tell ya what, I don't think anyone makes a better shotshell press than Mec. I bought a Mec 600 Jr. in 1980 and I'm still using that same press after thousands and thousands of rounds. The only thing I've ever had to replace was the plastic start crimp and finishing crimp thingy. I don't think either one of those parts was more than $4 or $5, and probably not that much.
Lee makes a shotshell loader and I bought one back in the mid 1980's for 20 ga. loading. It is called a Lee Load All and it was almost impossible for me to use after having owned a Mec. After just a few boxes of 20 ga. I sold that Load All, it just wasn't a good shot shell press, it felt very unstable and didn't produce a consistent product. It always felt like I was going to break it with normal use.
Mec 600 Jr. 's are no doubt the most popular shotshell loaders on planet earth and are easy to find used in excellent working condition for $25 - $50. If you should stumble across a Mec Grabber or any other progressive Mec for little expense, just make sure it is working normal, and if so, buy it.
 
For what you want to do the lee load all and a $20.00 lee slug mold will work just fine. The load all sounds like a giant bowl of rice crispies... snap, crackle, pop. It does however get the job done and i have used them for over 20 years and have loaded many shells on them and they do a fine job with new hulls. If you want the best single stage reloader made, then take a look at the mec sizemaster which i also use and recommend for a high volume lifetime purchase. It is no trouble to empty the shot/powder hoppers on the load all and in fact can be done quicker than unscrewing the bottles on my mec as the entire assembly slides off the square column for emptying by simply pulling the handles away from the pins on the sides of the carrier.
 
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