Smith & Wesson K22 troubles... help!

[usp9]

I've recently come across a S&W K22, 6" barrel, serial number 2457**, adjustable rear sight, square butt. Any insight into this revolver would assist me, as I'm not very knowedgable regarding revolvers, but I have one major problem I need help with. After firing, when I go to extract the spent .22 cases, the extracting mechanism is stuck, and I mean stuck solid. With unspent ammo, or unloaded it works just fine. Can someone explain why this happens and how to fix it.

I can't figure out how to remove the cylinder from the frame either. There are rings in each chamber at the area the case end would be. I'd like to remove the cylinder so as to soak it in cleaner and try to remove the rings. Thanks.

 

[M2 Carbine]

After firing, when I go to extract the spent .22 cases, the extracting mechanism is stuck, and I mean stuck solid. With unspent ammo, or unloaded it works just fine. Can someone explain why this happens and how to fix it.

I'd guess that the chambers are crusted with residue. 22's are right dirty burning.
It can also be the ammo. Try some different brands. I have a K-22 and some fired cases stick more than others.

I can't figure out how to remove the cylinder from the frame either. There are rings in each chamber at the area the case end would be. I'd like to remove the cylinder so as to soak it in cleaner and try to remove the rings. Thanks.

A good cleaning would be a god idea.

Look at the right side of the revolver. There's three screws. Remove the front one. Don't lose the screw, it's small
Then open the cylinder and it will slide forward off the frame.

 

[Master Blaster]

Then open the cylinder and it will slide forward off the frame.

The cylinder and the crane/yoke will slide forward together if you let them, dont try to, seperate them by pulling the yoke forward till it seperates from the cylinder which you are holding stationary in your hand. if you slide them together you will scratch the cylinder or the frame or both.

Use a good solvent and a proper brush to clean the cylinder, .22 lr uses a heeled bullet meaning the bullet is the widest part of the cartridge, it sits outside and over the case unlike centerfires which are inside the case.

I find all my .22lr revolvers need to have the cylinder brushed good after every 200-300 rounds, or you get difficult extraction, and Failures to fire, where the firing pin seats the bullet in the crud on the first strike and then fires on the second attempt.

 

[MrBorland]

With unspent ammo, or unloaded it works just fine. Can someone explain why this happens and how to fix it.

The K-22 is an excellent piece and generally very accurate; part of the accuracy stems from chamber diameters with tight tolerance to begin with. Add to that, .22LR brass is pretty soft and expands when fired to the point it can be difficult to extract. I have a K-22 and a 10-shot 617. I haven't had trouble with the 6-shot K-22 6-shot, but if I allow the 617 chambers to get too dirty, it really gets difficult to extract 10 rounds.

As others noted, cleaning of the cylinders will help. Personally, I wouldn't risk losing the crane screw or scratching the bluing just to clean the chambers, so I'd just clean them with the cylinder attached. Also, nothing would look worse to me than a buggered-up screw on a nice K-22

When cleaning, pay attention to the surface of the chambers too, where the rim seats, as well as under the extractor star. If the rounds don't seat completely due to dirt on the chamber face, or the ejector star has crud under it, it'll feel like a very gritty or stubborn trigger, but it's really due to the rounds hitting the frame as they rotate into position.

 

[M2 Carbine]

As others noted, cleaning of the cylinders will help. Personally, I wouldn't risk losing the crane screw or scratching the bluing just to clean the chambers, so I'd just clean them with the cylinder attached. Also, nothing would look worse to me than a buggered-up screw on a nice K-22

True.
You can give the cylinder a good cleaning without removing it from the gun.


Just yesterday I had to tear down a recently purchased used K-22 (nice condition). Someone had installed too weak a Rebound Spring.

 

[1BLINDREF]

There is probably a combination of two things that is causing your problem:
1. Dirty cylinder
2. Ammo

When my K-22s' cylinder gets dirty, it doesn't eject Remington UMC .22 ammo easily. It will however eject the Federal American Eagle .22 ammo.
I don't know if Remington uses a thinner case on their .22 UMC and therefore it expands just enough to stick in the cylinder.
I will only shoot Federal .22 through my K-22 now.

The other problem is that the cylinder is probably dirty.
If you really want to clean your cylinder, its best if you take it off of the gun and soak it in Hoppes #9 for two or three days.
I have a jar filled with Hoppes that I use to soak my cylinders and semi barrels. You'll be surprised at how easy it is to clean the cylinder this way.

It's very easy to take the cylinder off of your K-22. The most important thing is that you use the right type and size screw driver tip. You should invest in an inexpensive set of gunsmithing tools with a variety of different size screw driver bits (B Square makes a nice set for about $25)



Just remove that screw with the cylinder closed.
Then open the cylinder and slide it forward out of the frame of the gun.
Then slide the cylinder off of the ejector rod and you'll be good to go.
Soak the cylinder in the Hoppes #9 for two to three days.
If the barrel end of the cylinder has lead deposits on it (which it probably does), use a brass brush to scrub it off. The brass brush will not hurt your guns blueing.
Then run a brush through each chamber.
Then run a dry patch through each chamber.
Lastly, run a patch with a small dot of oil through each chamber.
Now you are ready to put the cylinder back on to your gun.
Just reverse the process and you are finished!

Good luck - Hope this helps!

 

[ClemY]

I remove the cylinders to clean revos. I also use a cordless hand drill and bronze brushes to clean the chambers.

The 17 was tight to help accuracy. I believe in the 90's, S&W loosened up the chamber size to make loading and unloading easier, and it degraded accuracy. With the use of CNC machinery to make cylinders, they have retightened the chambers to get accuracy back. But they do have to be cleaned, preferably every time they are used.

 

[MrBorland]

I've recently come across a S&W K22, 6" barrel, serial number 2457**, adjustable rear sight, square butt.

I'm assuming there's actually a "K" prefix in front of 2457** - if so, yours was made in 1954. A fine revolver, indeed. Enjoy it!

 

[usp9]

I'm assuming there's actually a "K" prefix in front of 2457** - if so, yours was made in 1954. A fine revolver, indeed. Enjoy it!

Yes, there is a K before the number.

I haven't owned or handled a revolver in over thirty years and it showed. Thank you all for your help.

 

[dogngun]

K-22's are famous for this problem - the chambers are cut very tight, and the brass that is expanded from being fired is really tough to get out. It will lock up the entire cylinder. It helps to remember that this was designed as a real target gun with very tight tollerances and it works best with low velocity/standard velocity ammo.
It will probably still stick, but not as hard.
It's not a malfunction, most all of them do that. bring something to clean it with to the range - I use a bore snake - and clean it frequently while shooting.

FWIW, my K-22 is nearly 40 years old and was used as a police training gun before I got it, and it still shoots way better than I can hold it.

mark

 

[MrBorland]

I haven't owned or handled a revolver in over thirty years and it showed.

Well, your taste in revolvers is excellent - a lot of guys here would love to have such a gun. It'll outshoot nearly everyone here, too. Take good care of it!

 

[usp9]

Well...the cylinder came off easily, soaked and brushed to a like new shine. I'll try standard ammo, as I may have been using mini-mags (not sure). Thanks again. I love the internet...thank you Al Gore.

 

[1BLINDREF]

thank you Al Gore.

LOL...... thats funny

My K-22 likes Federal American Eagle, but every gun is different.

 

[Virginian]

"Go Hokies" Not funny, but this Hokie will gladly second it.

 

[Master Blaster]

cci standard velocity, aguilla extra standard velocity, federal bulk, all shoot well in my 17, 617, and K22s.

I stay away from any remington rimfire ammo as it has been junk for some time.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

I've had 2 smith .22 revolvers, model 63. Both had chambering/extraction issues. I suspect their chambers are very tight. One day when I get around to it I'm going to polish the chambers. That should correct the problem.

 

[Dain Bramage]

My K-22 likes Federal American Eagle, but every gun is different.

Mine's not different. My Model 17-4 likes Fed Am (HP and RN) better than any other load I've tried. And the price is right too.

And I've only had extraction issues right after firing Aquila 60g SSS, with the shorty cases. A cleanup fixes it.

 

[capbuster]

I started shooting 22 shorts in my K22 to get around the problem mentioned. I would prefer using the long rifle rounds but I have gotten over it. take care.

 

[jad0110]

I stay away from any remington rimfire ammo as it has been junk for some time.

Yeah, my K-22 doesn't like the Remington ammo either.

My Model 17-4 likes Fed Am (HP and RN) better than any other load I've tried. And the price is right too.

Mine likes Federal too. Even the cheapo Wallie World Bulk packs. And it's cheaper than the Remington aw well, a nice bonus!

FYI, here's how I remove the cylinder (copied from an earlier post of mine):

The most important point to remember (in addition to using the proper gunsmith screwdriver) is to hold the cylinder in the partially open position, in place, while drawing the crane arm out from the gun. If you try to take the entire assembly out at once (cylinder and all) you are almost guaranteed to scratch the cylinder on the frame. Not a problem on a stainless gun because it can be polished out, but not good on a blue or nickel one. It is easy to spot a gun with a cylinder that was removed incorrectly - the scratch appears as a thin, horizontal drag mark on the cylinder.

Reassembly is basically the reverse. Hold the cylinder about where it would be located when it is partially open, then slide the crane assembly onto the gun and cylinder.

It is a lot easier than it sounds.

Also, when you remove screws (again, with the correct gunsmith screwdriver), guide the tip of the screwdriver onto the screw head with your fingers so as not to nick the finish. While still holding it at the tip, tap downward on the other end of the screwdriver so that the tip "sticks" to the screw a bit better, reducing the risk of slippage. I usually just tap it with the wooden handle of a small hammer.

 

[Deanimator]

+1 on ammunition dependency. With some brands (Russian Sniper brass?) I have to rap the ejector rod on the back of the shooting bench. When I shoot CCI Standard velocity through mine, I don't have problems. But then I notice distinct differences in different brands with my High Standard Citation too. I had to stop using Aguila Standard Velocity because it stuck in the chamber, causing stoppages. I went back to CCI and the problem completely disappeared. I reserve the Aguila for my K-22 where it doesn't have to eject with EACH shot.