Some N/K-frame questions...

[Feanaro]

I've about decided that I want, nay, NEED a .357 revolver. And I want one with class. No plasticy grips, soul-dead stainless steel, or full underlugs. To be specific, I am looking at the S&W 19, 27, and 28 models. To the questions(please forgive me if these have been asked before, I did a few searches already).

What is all this dash two stuff? Like 27-2 or 19-3? I assume this indicates changes in the design. If so, what are the changes in the 19, 27, and 28 lines?

How much of a recoil difference is there between to the K and N frames? Significant?

Do you think a four inch barrel balances better than a six? I'd like to compare myself but until then I'd like to hear what others think. I'm not really interested in the ballistic differences, I'm not going to be hunting deer or the like.

Suppose, for a moment, that I wanted to CC this revolver in the winter.(I don't right now, not old enough for the license) Would it print badly or be uncomfortable in a good vertical shoulder holster(under a large leather jacket)? I know there are a lot of variables but I'd still like to hear some opinions. I might mention that I am large of shoulder. Would a six incher be more uncomfortable/harder to conceal or would it be about the same?

What stocks do you find to be the most ergonomic? I like the looks of the target grips but I wonder how well they fit. Again, I know it's rather subjective.

Will shooting nothing but 158 grain Magnum loads significantly reduce the life of either the N frame or K frame revolvers? I've already heard of the negative effects of hot 125 grain loads.

Is there any reason to get a K-frame from a strict target shooting perspective?

How well does the nickel plating on these revolvers hold up? I've heard that when nickel "goes" it goes really badly. I've also heard that this only applies to really old guns. Between bluing and nickel, which would you choose?

All other things being equal is there any reason to get a 27 over a 28? I know the finish is a matte and the checkering on the top of the frame is different. Anything else?

 

[Gordon]

If you don't want a 'collectors gun' think about a 686! Its got it all: frame heavy enough to hold up to any load, the fast action lock work of the K frame in a package only a little bigger/heavier, and made out of stainless with NO finish to worry about. Many people feel 686s are the MOST accurate out of the box S&W. 27s & 28s are big old sweet hearts, with their cylinders shorter than but much bigger around than K frames. I like K frames the best for combat and concealment though. I have evolved to shooting 3 to 6 boxes of .38s for every box of .357s so K frames will out last me! I have a 2.5" model 66 and a 4" & 6" model 19. Also a Model 13 3" heavy Barrel round butt which is slicked up. All real good guns! Also have a 3.5" pre 27 and a 5" 'Original Magnum commemrative' , beside all those Colt's. Notice NO 686 !! BUT if I was buying just one , it'd be a 4" 686 S&W!

 

[Feanaro]

I really, really, REALLY hate the looks of stainless steel and full underlugs. Stainless steel has many practical advantages. But most are moot as the revolver will likely be exposed to the range and little else. And if I do use it for CC as I outlined I shouldn't need the corrosion resistance properties(I also border on the Obsessive-Compulsive when it comes to keeping firearms clean and lubed). I don't sweat much on the sides and there would be a shirt between myself and the revolver. And though I haven't tried the 686, I haven't liked the balance of ANY fully underlugged revolver. I will admit that I haven't tried too many though.

And darnit, I want the gun Dirty Harry has!

 

[denfoote]

Something I can answer!!

All other things being equal is there any reason to get a 27 over a 28? I know the finish is a matte and the checkering on the top of the frame is different. Anything else?

The 28 is a "value edition" of the 27, with none of the "fancy".
The 28 was produced as a more servicable, less expensive sidearm for police officers. They can be had, quite easily, at gunshows for about $300. That's what I paid for mine.

 

[yesterdaysyouth]

If so, what are the changes in the 19, 27, and 28 lines?

there are many, just know that a no dash model is just as good as one made 30 years later, most would say better...

How much of a recoil difference is there between to the K and N frames? Significant?

quite a difference, with magnums the k frame will punish the recoil sensitive, not so much with the n frame...

Do you think a four inch barrel balances better than a six?

yes, unless it's stainless..

Suppose, for a moment, that I wanted to CC this revolver in the winter.(I don't right now, not old enough for the license) Would it print badly or be uncomfortable in a good vertical shoulder holster(under a large leather jacket)? I know there are a lot of variables but I'd still like to hear some opinions. I might mention that I am large of shoulder. Would a six incher be more uncomfortable/harder to conceal or would it be about the same?

probally wouldn't print at all, barrel length wouldn't make a big difference until you sat down..

What stocks do you find to be the most ergonomic? I like the looks of the target grips but I wonder how well they fit. Again, I know it's rather subjective.

i love the square butt target stocks when shooting mags...

Will shooting nothing but 158 grain Magnum loads significantly reduce the life of either the N frame or K frame revolvers? I've already heard of the negative effects of hot 125 grain loads.

yes, the harder you work a machine the shorter it's life....

Is there any reason to get a K-frame from a strict target shooting perspective?

for strict target shooting i would get the n frame...

How well does the nickel plating on these revolvers hold up? I've heard that when nickel "goes" it goes really badly. I've also heard that this only applies to really old guns. Between bluing and nickel, which would you choose?

the nickle isn't plated directly onto the steel, but the steel is plated with copper first then the nickle is applied... solvents that disvolve copper will do so when the nickle has been removed, one small spot will grow like a fungus... i have both but would prefer the blue...

All other things being equal is there any reason to get a 27 over a 28? I know the finish is a matte and the checkering on the top of the frame is different. Anything else?

i consider the 27 a collector, the 28 more of a shooter...

bottom line is this... by the time you turn 25 you'll probally have more than one example of each. as long as it passes the CHECKOUT, then buy it...

 

[Feanaro]

bottom line is this... by the time you turn 25 you'll probally have more than one example of each.

I hope not or I will be one broke young man.

probally wouldn't print at all, barrel length wouldn't make a big difference until you sat down..

After taking some measurements(my side versus the listed length of a 6 inch N frame) I figure you're right.

 

[yesterdaysyouth]

I hope not or I will be one broke young man.

it ain't nearly as bad as it sounds...

 

[BluesBear]

I hope not or I will be one broke young man.

Being broke will keep you out of trouble.

Seriously. If you don't spend the money on guns you'll just pi$$ it away on something else. I might as well be something that'll last a lifetime.

 

[Checkman]

I find the 4" M28 to be more "packable". The 6" model balances very nicely and is better for target shooting. If you're looking at performance the six inch barrel gives you just that much more. The 27's had a deeper midnight blue finish as well as seratinons on the top strap and barrel rib, a wide target trigger and a wide target hammer. The 27 was also available with different front sights. The 28 was introduced in 1954 at the request of cops who wanted a more affordable version of the 27. The 28 had a satin or matte blue finish, an adjustable rear sight leaf that is non-serrated as well as a smooth barrel rib. It was only available with the Baughman Quick Draw front sight and came with the .400" semi-target hammer and the .265" serrated trigger or the .400" smooth trigger.Also only a handful of 28's were made with a nickel finish. Until the late seventies the 27 was available with 3.5", 5", 6.5" and 8-3/8" barrels. In 1979 the 3.5 and the 5" models were eliminated and the 27 became available with a 4" barrel.The 28 (mfd 1954-1986) was only available in 4" and 6" models. MEchanically both guns are the same.Hope this helps.

 

[Majic]

The lower the dash number the more interest it will draw from the purists. The P&R (pinned barrel and recessed cylinders) models will be the most sought after models. Most believe they are the better quality revolvers.
The N-frame (M27 and M28) is much heavier than the K-frame and will soak up a lot more recoil.
The 4 inchers will carry better (that extra barrel length will get in the way while sitting) and stocks are always a personal matter as we all have different hands. You should go to a store or gunshow to handle the Target stocks to see if they fit you. Some like them just fine and others have no use for them.
Both the N and the K frame was designed around the 158 grainers and they can shoot them all day long with miminal wear. The hotter 125 grainer can cause problems with the K-frame (forcing cone erosion), but the stronger N-frame will have no problem with them. The K-frame is better suited to shooting mostly 38sp cartridges for a long life.
For a range gun the N-frame can be comfortably shot all day and handle any sane load you choose to feed it. The K-frame was designed as a carry gun.
Nickel is tougher than bluing, but when it wears it wears ugly. It blisters and peels as the copper underplating is destroyed. Bluing when it wears gives the revolver a personality. It shows the revolver has been used, but still well cared for. There is some grace and class in that IMO.
The M27 is the Cadillac and the M28 is the Chevy. The price range is closing rapidly as the M28s aren't as cheap as they once were. If you want just a working revolver then the M28 is the way to go. It's not as pretty as the M27, but it will shoot right beside it. If you want bragging rights then you want a M27.

If you do decide to get an early M27 then finding a 4 incher may be a problem. That's probably the hardest barrel length to find. Have no fear though as most believe the 5 incher to be the best barrel length of them all. It balances perfectly for a N-frame and the barrel is long enough to take full advantage of the cartridge. There is also the 3 1/2 incher for a carry revolver, but they usually demand premium prices and are highly sought after.

 

[Coltdriver]

I can help with a few of your questions.

I recently acquired a 3 1/2 inch N Frame in .357.

Mine came with service stocks for grips. Too small for me. I got a set of target grips for about $5 new! Much easier to control for me.

As for recoil I created some full house Elmer Keith 158 grain loads. Totally comfortable to shoot from this 45 ounce masterpiece of a revolver! I hate recoil that causes me to be unable to control the gun, especially for a follow up or second shot. Plenty of muzzle rise but controllable and not so "snappy" that it precluded a second (reasonably accurate) shot.

As for concealed carry I was a little amazed to find that with a decent high ride belt holster that I could carry mine under a jeans jacket or wind breaker with no problem!

 

[Feanaro]

Thank you gents, I appreciate the advise. So far I think what I want is a blued 28, 4 inch barrel, and target grips if possible. Could be a bit before I can bring one my way but I'll roam the gun shows.

 

[Checkman]

Good hunting Fenaro. I paid $350 for my 4" M28 last June. It was manufactured (at least the frame was) in 1979. Don't know when the factory shipped it. I believe that Eagle is now making reproductions of the S&W target grips. If not you can alwasy go with Houges, Herrets, Pachmeyers etc. My experience was that the 4" model was harder to find. I own a 5" M27, but I wasn't even looking at the time. It was for sale and I got permission from my wife to buy it. Oh and welcome to the N-frame club.

 

[MrMurphy]

The L-frame (686) also came in the blued 586 and 581 models (I had a 581).


The 2.5, 3 and 4" barrels are the easiest to hide, the 3" is the perfect mix of hidability and accuracy (which is why the FBI issued 3" Model 13s and 66s and 19s).

A 3" or 4" 19, 66, 65, or 4" 581/586 would do well for you. You can find a half-underlug L frame too.

 

[Standing Wolf]

What stocks do you find to be the most ergonomic? I like the looks of the target grips but I wonder how well they fit. Again, I know it's rather subjective.

Why not be completely subjective? http://www.herrett-stocks.com

 

[tim71]

Go with a 6 inch 27

I was at a gun show the other day and saw a 6 inch m27 and thought, here's my chance to hold one and see how this "too big" cumbersom gun felt. Let me tell you I fell in love with that gun and I have no doubt that I could shoot it as well as any other. I expected it to be much bigger than it was because of all I've heard. BTW, I'm 6' tall with average sized hands so I've not got abnormally large hands. Anyway, I handed the gun to my Dad and he agreed that it felt just right. I have no doubt that I could carry it in a shoulder holster "I know I know just like Dirty Harry" and get pretty proficient with it.

I will own one someday or maybe a .41 mag. I loved the way that gun felt, stock grips and all.

Tim

 

[magsnubby]

The big ole N frame .357's are really under rated. I have a 28-2 6" that my brother bought new. I Finally managed to talk him out of it last Christmas. I got it for $200.00. It has a little wear around the cylinder edges and on the end of the barrel. it's in exellent mechanical condition. It eats the hot loads like they're candy. It's on my list of "never get rid of guns".

I guess people are starting to relize what great guns the 27's and 28's are. A couple of years ago i would see them at gun shows for around $200.00 to $225.00 in nice condition. Now the same guns go for around $350.00.

Check E-Bay or Gun Broker for grips. You can get some nice grips at fairly reasonable prices.