TINCANBANDIT
Member
Thanks for the info, I have some more projects with birch or beech stocks
Interesting model, never seen one of those in real life.Stevens model 73, the previous owner gave up on the project stating that he could not find a replacement for the lost bolt. I was able to find the bolt and refinished the rifle, I have less than $23 in the project
Before and after pictures
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I decided it needed a sling, so I made one from an old leather belt
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blog posts with pictures of the process
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2019/07/the-stevens-model-73-project-part-1.html
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2019/07/the-stevens-model-73-project-part-2.html
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2019/07/the-stevens-model-73-project-part-3.html
That in fact is my Camp 9 that I have mentioned in other threads. Bought as a complete basket case. The thing was painted. I stripped the paint and TinCan did the rest.
Very interesting. What was the turn-around time involved?
you can't "fill in" the metal, you must sand the high spots down until everything is level and smooth again
here is another one I did, this is a 1956 vintage Remington model 58
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you can see more pictures and the process here:
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/10/another-shotgun-project-remington-model.html
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/10/another-shotgun-project-remington-model_10.html
As posted earlier with my finger groove sporter 10/22, I was able to purchase a few of the left over steel 10/22 receivers from the failed Kingston Armory. They were building M1 & M1A tribute rifles using a 10/22 action as the basis for the rifle. They had some 10/22 receiver copies cast in steel and then machined.
Anyway since I blue guns I decided to buy some of the receivers "in the white" (bare steel) and give them a high polish blue. I polished the receiver to a 5000 grit finish. Then I took one of my extra new-take-off barrels and give it the same high polish blue job. Then I bought a new anodized aluminum trigger housing from Pike Arms and a new walnut International stock (factory Ruger) from S&P Outfitters.
This is the result
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Here are my blog posts showing the process
https://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-ruger-1022-continental-project-part.html
https://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-ruger-1022-continental-project-part_6.html
https://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-ruger-1022-continental-project-part_8.html
So, how do you keep the engraving so crisp when the surface it is on is pitted? In the example quoted above the engraving appears factory depth and very crisp. I’ve also seen some of your other work and even when the pitting is deeper you seem to be able to keep the engraving crisp.
When sanding I used a block of hardwood, I just remove enough to make the pits disappear. When the pitting is too bad or the roll marks/engraving too shallow, I have to make a choice. On one project (a Marlin model 1893) I found some pictures of the factory roll marks on a mint rifle, had them converted to vector images and then had a laser engraver reapply them in the exact locations, they looked like factory roll marks when finished.
This poor Ruger was left for year(s) in the back of a Jeep that was parked out in the weather. The gun was thought to be junk, but thanks to someone using grease as a lube and a thoroughly leaded bore, the damage was only cosmetic
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Here is a picture showing the progress on the barrel
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an origianl sharps CW percussion carbine, wood damage
used epoxy mixed with powdered paint colors to match wood.
fitted very tight, grain and wood matching .
perfect. cannot see the repair,
better than the picture shows. Ken
you can see the full write up here: http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2013/08/redemption-for-unloved-gun.html