Squeaky bolt and hard to lift bolt on new rifle

[bjp04b]

I purchased a Sako A7 rifle, and I've been cycling the action. It's really hard to lift the bold after pulling the trigger compared to my other bolt action rifles - a Weatherby Vanguard and a Howa Mini Action. It's probably twice as hard. My wife can't do it without a lot of difficulty, and even I have a hard time lifting the bolt while keeping the rifle shouldered.

Like I said, the actions on the other bolt actions I've owned have been easy to work, but I've only owned two and I don't know what counts as normal. Is this something that could ease with time? Or is it something that might need gunsmith attention?

Another issue is a squeaky bolt when lifting and closing the handle. It's really loud. Once again, the opposite of my Weatherby and Howa. I've oiled the bolt but there's no change, and I'm wondering what it could be.

Finally, closing the bolt with a standard 30-06 Remington Core-Lokt round was kind of tough. It took extra pressure to close the bolt compared to with an empty chamber - seemed like quite a bit, but once again I'm not sure what's normal.

All in all I'm frustrated to have three complaints about the gun after owning it for just a few days and would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

 

[troy fairweather]

weird maybe check the locking lugs

 

[mrmeval]

You did not say exactly which A7. Sako is too good a rifle for that symptom. Completely take the rifle out of the stock. See if that changes the symptom. It may become more apparent what is happening once you've disassembled it. Still if it's warranty I'd talk to Sako either directly or through the dealer. If you bought it used you may try returning it. If not warranty and the dealer is uncooperative then send it to Sako and let them quote you to fix it. They may or may not cover it warranty but it's worth a shot.

 

[bjp04b]

You did not say exactly which A7. Sako is too good a rifle for that symptom. Completely take the rifle out of the stock. See if that changes the symptom. It may become more apparent what is happening once you've disassembled it. Still if it's warranty I'd talk to Sako either directly or through the dealer. If you bought it used you may try returning it. If not warranty and the dealer is uncooperative then send it to Sako and let them quote you to fix it. They may or may not cover it warranty but it's worth a shot.

It's a Big Game 30-06. Got it on clearance so maybe I should've lowered my expectations. It's under warranty, but I'd love to avoid sending it in if there's an easy fix or if this is something that will work itself out over time. I'm sure I'll end up sending it in.

 

[Slamfire]

Make sure the cocking cam is lubricated with a moly lube or semi fluid grease (LSA). It make be too late to prevent galling of the firing pin cocking piece nose and bolt cocking cam. If you have evidence of galling, gouges, on the nose of the cocking piece or the bolt cocking cam, get those replaced before spare parts become unavailable. You cannot fix galling. I assume those surfaces would be hardened, one way to do it is with a case hardening compound, and if the surface material is worn through the case, nothing you can do in terms of polishing, is going to improve things for the long term. The hardened surface is gone.

Since you report this is under warranty, call SAKO and get your case registered before the warranty expires. And, send the thing back while it is under warranty.

 

[bjp04b]

I'm planning on sending the rifle in. Oiling the lugs helped somewhat, but the action is still stiff and noisy. I took a closer look at what was happening to the rounds I put through the rifle. They were slightly deformed after being chambered. I asked someone at the gun store where I bought it what he thought, and he said it might be because I was using Remington Core-Lokts and that I should try with a different kind of ammo.

Could this be the fault of the ammo? I've never had a rifle that wouldn't properly chamber standard economy ammo like Core-Lokts, but I still have a lot of learning to do about rifles.

 

[Slamfire]

I'm planning on sending the rifle in. Oiling the lugs helped somewhat, but the action is still stiff and noisy. I took a closer look at what was happening to the rounds I put through the rifle. They were slightly deformed after being chambered. I asked someone at the gun store where I bought it what he thought, and he said it might be because I was using Remington Core-Lokts and that I should try with a different kind of ammo.

I don't understand specially what is deforming your rounds, or what you mean by slightly deformed. There are times that the cartridge headspace, that is the distance from base to shoulder of the case, as shown in this cartridge headspace gage



is longer than the chamber headspace. That will result in a crush fit of cartridge and chamber and will cause difficult chambering and sometimes, difficult extraction. Factory ammunition is particularly good in chambering, as factory cartridges are seldom oversized or over length.

If the bullet is jammed into the lands, which can happen, then the bolt will be difficult to close, and difficult to open. I learned to carry a cleaning rod with me to the firing line. There were many, many times at Camp Perry, we are all on the 600 yard line, ready to fire, or firing, and some stupid fisherman gets into the impact area. Targets were pulled into the pits and you had to make safe and unload your rifle. If you soft seated your bullets, and did not fire the thing before the targets went down, opening the bolt often left the bullet in the chamber throat. Which would result in a massive powder spill, right in the receiver ring, and a call for a cleaning rod to knock the bullet out of the throat.

Bullet ogives vary a lot, you would have to try different factory ammunition to see if you have a Remington Core Lokt problem, but, I doubt it.

The Sako A7 is a triple lugged bolt. Instead of a 90 degree bolt lift, which means the cocking cam will have a shallower slope, yours is going to have a 60 degree bolt lift (typical).




That means, by design, this rifle has to be much harder to open than my Sako Finnbear with its two lug design. I have 90 degrees of movement to compress the mainspring, assuming similar mainspring strength. It would be stupid to cut main spring coils as that would increase the chance of misfires, especially in cold weather. The ignition systems of the typical sporter rifle is less than military rifles. This is due to many factors, one of them is, multiple lug designs. The designers come up with a multiple lug design, basically for marketing reasons, and with a standard strength mainspring, customers complain about a stiff bolt lift, so, the mainspring is weakened. Given that the ignition system was probably marginal in the first place, shooters have ignition issues, in the cold, with less sensitive primers. And when the mainspring weakens, as they do, ignition problems just get worse.

 

[jmr40]

Three lug rifles are typically harder to open. But it is a trade off since they don't have to be opened as far.

 

[JeffG]

Are you sure it's the original bolt? There may be serial numbers engraved into it....that should match the rifle. What about scope mounting screws? Any chance one of them is protruding into the action?

 

[Dibbs]

Have you looked carefully at the chamber ? A metal shaving jammed in there could be causing you grief.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Remove the front action screw several turns and then try the bolt. It's possible that front screw is poking into the action just far enough to hit the bolt. If that's the case, just trim off one or two threads from the end of the bolt.
Also, a light smear of anti-seize grease on the inside faces of the lugs may help. A dry fit of the bolt lugs to the inside action faces where they rub can, and will, create metal galling.

 

[30Aught]

I purchased a Sako A7 rifle, and I've been cycling the action. It's really hard to lift the bold after pulling the trigger compared to my other bolt action rifles - a Weatherby Vanguard and a Howa Mini Action. It's probably twice as hard. My wife can't do it without a lot of difficulty, and even I have a hard time lifting the bolt while keeping the rifle shouldered.

Like I said, the actions on the other bolt actions I've owned have been easy to work, but I've only owned two and I don't know what counts as normal. Is this something that could ease with time? Or is it something that might need gunsmith attention?

Another issue is a squeaky bolt when lifting and closing the handle. It's really loud. Once again, the opposite of my Weatherby and Howa. I've oiled the bolt but there's no change, and I'm wondering what it could be.

Finally, closing the bolt with a standard 30-06 Remington Core-Lokt round was kind of tough. It took extra pressure to close the bolt compared to with an empty chamber - seemed like quite a bit, but once again I'm not sure what's normal.

All in all I'm frustrated to have three complaints about the gun after owning it for just a few days and would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Sorry to hear that. Sometimes a hard bolt lift would be high pressure rounds- but after firing. Or sometimes leaving oil in the chamber. Could also be machine marks in chamber that need polishing(and a few other things). Keep this in mind for the future. For now do a quick check for debris in the lug recesses and maybe take the stock off and inspect everything. Sounds like the bolt or bolt handle are rubbing against something. I would bring it back to the dealer or better yet send it to Sako. I know that is an inconvenience because I never appreciate it when I have to do it. But it is worth it.Call Sako first and explain your grief. When rounds don't fit thats often too big an OAL(overall length) from bullet seating or shoulder needing bumping or base of case needing better sizing when reloading. But factory rounds should fall within SAAMI specs. I hate to say your chamber may not be within SAAMI specs or not true. Be persistent with the dealer and Sako. And if they don't solve it at first try again. I know this is a pain but Marlin just replaced my rifle after I sent it back the second time. And my Kimber I told them If a cape buffalo kills me because I couldnt lift the bolt for a second shot on a charge I would wager my wife will be in a lawyer's office. This is no joke-so stay at it and be patient. Initially they may sometimes try to avoid a big fix due to liability.' But don't threat abruptly- I usually appeal to their pride and start with I don't understand how a rifle with such a fine reputation could let a rifle out of the factory. Ask them how this could have happened and that your confused about that.Both my rifles were years beyond warranty and got them to pay for delivery and fix at no charge. Always throw in that they really should be replacing the rifle when it is a lemon.

 

[30Aught]

I don't understand specially what is deforming your rounds, or what you mean by slightly deformed. There are times that the cartridge headspace, that is the distance from base to shoulder of the case, as shown in this cartridge headspace gage

View attachment 822245

is longer than the chamber headspace. That will result in a crush fit of cartridge and chamber and will cause difficult chambering and sometimes, difficult extraction. Factory ammunition is particularly good in chambering, as factory cartridges are seldom oversized or over length.

If the bullet is jammed into the lands, which can happen, then the bolt will be difficult to close, and difficult to open. I learned to carry a cleaning rod with me to the firing line. There were many, many times at Camp Perry, we are all on the 600 yard line, ready to fire, or firing, and some stupid fisherman gets into the impact area. Targets were pulled into the pits and you had to make safe and unload your rifle. If you soft seated your bullets, and did not fire the thing before the targets went down, opening the bolt often left the bullet in the chamber throat. Which would result in a massive powder spill, right in the receiver ring, and a call for a cleaning rod to knock the bullet out of the throat.

Bullet ogives vary a lot, you would have to try different factory ammunition to see if you have a Remington Core Lokt problem, but, I doubt it.

The Sako A7 is a triple lugged bolt. Instead of a 90 degree bolt lift, which means the cocking cam will have a shallower slope, yours is going to have a 60 degree bolt lift (typical).

View attachment 822246


That means, by design, this rifle has to be much harder to open than my Sako Finnbear with its two lug design. I have 90 degrees of movement to compress the mainspring, assuming similar mainspring strength. It would be stupid to cut main spring coils as that would increase the chance of misfires, especially in cold weather. The ignition systems of the typical sporter rifle is less than military rifles. This is due to many factors, one of them is, multiple lug designs. The designers come up with a multiple lug design, basically for marketing reasons, and with a standard strength mainspring, customers complain about a stiff bolt lift, so, the mainspring is weakened. Given that the ignition system was probably marginal in the first place, shooters have ignition issues, in the cold, with less sensitive primers. And when the mainspring weakens, as they do, ignition problems just get worse.

View attachment 822247

Those Slotted Sheridan gages are sweet. I got the Wilson case gages but am going to get the Sheridans also.