Staining brass for identification or aesthetics

Status
Not open for further replies.

Esoteria

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
137
So the second batch of .45 Long Colt I ever made, a little over a year ago, I made with Pyrodex P. I had decided to sell my BP cap and ball revolver for a flintlock, and therefore needed to go "real BP" instead of substitute, and so I had little other use for the leftover Pyrodex except in a cartridge.

Anyway, after firing I tumbled the cases like I normally do (wet stainless steel pins), but without rinsing them first. All the Pyrodex crud stained the cases inside and out. At first I was mortified because my expensive .45 LC brass was "ruined," but after I loaded them up I realized they looked pretty darn cool, especially for an older cartridge.

Since then I've run the cases through another 3 or 4 batches and each time about 30% of the stain goes away, so at this point it can be a little tough to tell them apart from normal ones.

Has anyone done this intentionally (or unintentionally) and got a good result like I did? Any easy way to do it? Obviously I could shoot off some more Pyrodex but then I have to clean that crap out of my guns too, which I'm only willing to do from time to time. I've considered just pouring a teaspoon of unfired Pyrodex in with the brass when I clean them, but I'm not convinced that'll work.

I've read about lemon juice and other ways of turning the brass black, but they seem to have a similar or worse lifespan to the stain.

EDIT: I repeated the original results, and I'd forgotten just how discolored they get after the first run. (Note that the first 20 or so posts existed before this edit)
Left side: Normal cleaned brass (mixed 1 to 5 cleanings)
Right side: Brass cleaned exactly the same way, but contained ~25 gr Pyrodex P when fired. These are NOT nickel cases. Note the brass kind of shows on the case head just in front of the rim. These looked like the left side before Pyrodex.
Center: Some loaded cartridges with brass made the same way as right side, but fired with smokeless powder and cleaned normally 4 or 5 times since that happened.
The transition between the right side and the center color goes through a sort of purple hue, which is pretty cool. The silvery, almost case hardened look doesn't last all that long (1 or 2 more cleanings)
21odh14.jpg
Cleaning recipe: Stainless steel media, Harbor freight tumbler, filled with hot water, ~1/2 tsp Lemi-shine, 2 small drops of dish detergent. Tumbled for 1.5 to 2 hours. Rinsed in warm water, hand dried.

I do think this has some potential utility beyond the cool factor for e.g. keeping track of 9x19 vs 9x18. However, given the mess that comes along with BP and BP substitute, I think it only makes sense if you can do it an easier way, which I haven't tried yet. Again, I'm not convinced that unburned powder will give the same result, but I'll try with some throw-away 9mm brass later.
 
Last edited:
Ive done the same thing but only in 44-40. that was about 5 reloads ago now they look like new. at first i thought they were going in the scrap bucket
 
Anyone for blue or red brass? ;)

It would be nice to be able to stain brass to have an easy way of sorting similar-looking cartridges. Might be a new hobby turned business if it can be perfected.
 
I actually took a picture yesterday, but due to the lighting it was too hard to tell the difference between the "yellow" brass (3 on the left) and the stained ones so I didn't post it. Again, the stained has been worn off over 3 or 4 cleanings, so it's only about 50% of the darkness it was originally.

I'll post some pictures at the next opportunity, though.

Patocazador, I was reading a thread about this, actually, and it linked here. Unfortunately the process seems to require some chemicals I don't exactly have lying around.
Also, if I had to guess, I'd say the stains will come off after cleaning with these methods as well, although maybe they wouldn't with traditional dry tumbling....
 
The staining must be mainly from the sulfur.

rcmodel - great link. I think several of those would be no go. For example, purple. But others may be OK. Very cool though!
 
Teenage Bright Idea or Astounding Ignorance?

When I first got started reloading, I was reloading .30 M1 Carbine. I knew from the Speer manual that brass got work hardened from the cycles of firing and being resized and so had a limited life. A friend told me about Birchwood Casey's Brass Black so I decided to "paint" roman numerals on the side of the case with a q-tip each time I reloaded it. It sort of worked. The Brass Black did make a legible mark. But since I didn't own a tumbler, the discoloration from firing made it hard to distinguish the mark, so I gave up on the idea.

Since then, I got an education and am now winding down a 30+ year career as a forensic engineer so I know any conversion coating that only effects the surface of the brass will largely, if not completely, be removed by tumbling the brass between firings. Any conversion coating that goes deep enough to not be removed by tumbling could well have had an adverse impact on the mechanical properties of the brass.

Proceed with caution.
 
Great.

They will be rebranding it at the 2017 SHOT Show as the all new, 'Purple People Eater' PD ammo for home owners. :rolleyes:

rc
 
I would really like a lasting solution to this question.
I trim 9x19 brass to 9x18 to load for a Makarov.
 
Simple solution for your situation...I do similar but I convert 30-30 to 7-30 waters. Use nickeled brass for one, yellow brass for the other. Even if you have to buy new nickel brass, it's really nice to be able to tell at a glance. Too bad I'm running low on nickeled 30-30. Need to find a source once I regain employment.
 
Staining brass.....

Guys, I have been using different colored Sharpie permanent markers "circling" the primer and pocket, for many years. Works well, cheap too. :what:

Just food for thought,

HV
 
I have been using different colored Sharpie permanent markers "circling" the primer and pocket
I do that for my 9x18 mak loads, with fifty in the case I draw five lines to mark the case heads with a black sharpie. This goes away after tumbling.
 
I use an ink stamp pad to mark the head for identifying my brass at busy ranges, or for different loads. Just press the head into the pad to mark it. It is quick and easy. It is not permanent, but lasts through a couple tumblings in walnut media.
No idea if it would last through a stainless pins cleaning.
 
The staining of cartridge brass chemically in a myriad of colors is discussed at length in Nonte's Monumental work HANDLOADING cartridges. This data can be obtained in a marvelous NEW place to access information, a place called a " Library ".
And so it goes...
 
I have a set of "8-color Broad/Large-Tip" Sharpies, and use single & double stripes across the base to ID loading variations. Works great. Annealing can also cause coloration on brass, as would blueing solution.
 
The staining of cartridge brass chemically in a myriad of colors is discussed at length in Nonte's Monumental work HANDLOADING cartridges. This data can be obtained in a marvelous NEW place to access information, a place called a " Library ".
And so it goes...
Nonte's work is not in every library system. Rather obscure, actually.
 
I did the same thing with some 45LC years ago, shooting round ball in it with Pyrodex. I still use that brass, but it's a constant of what I'll NEVER do to my gun again. Pyrodex is dirty, nasty, and corrosive. Lots of better BP substitutes available today.

If you want to use Pyrodex to stain your brass, you don't have to fire it. All my brass spouts, flasks, and brass accessories for my muzzleloader look the same as your brass.
 
Yeah, I'm still working on the one pound I bought a couple of years ago. I don't really plan to buy more unless the unburned powder does stain well.
 
I know next to nothing about Pyrodex. What if you laid the cases in some Pyrodex and lit the Pyrodex, so as not to dirty up the gun or waste bullets? (don't try this at home, or at least not at your own home.) I know a guy who shoots steel plate matches and stripes the circumfrince of his brass with markers so nobody picks it up "inadvertently" and takes it. He might like an easier marking method.
 
Got a 7 pack of the wide tipped sharpies from Wally World. The tips are wide enough usually 1 or 2 passes marks the bottom of the case.
Sharpie mark comes of when tumbling but otherwise seems to hold up well.

I think the 7 pack was about $7.99.

Light green
Light Blue
Green
Blue
Red
Orange
Purple

Lighter charges start with light cool colors working up to Red.
I have a Black one I will also use to mark the side of cases I don't want to save. (lose pockets, last load in Bottle neck etc) That way I can toss them.

Also works great for telling your .223 brass (with crimps removed) from all the other .223 brass about.

Not as nice looking as stained ones however
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160223_183056543.jpg
    IMG_20160223_183056543.jpg
    110.8 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
Trying to keep track of my 10mm strays has been a challenge. Buddy on here suggested to get the nickle plated because they stick out more and they really do. Hes went through it too and marked his with a sharpie. They are easier to spot in a pile of brass.

If I had a Bigger Brass catcher I could eliminate the majority of the case chasing fiasco. :banghead:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top