Stone preference for action work; ceramic or Arkansas or India?

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becket

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For revolver action work such as smoothing/polishing double action flats of hammers, return spring blocks and frame contact areas, and general metal to metal fine work, which size/shape/material stones do you prefer?
 
For revolver action work such as smoothing/polishing double action flats of hammers, return spring blocks and frame contact areas, and general metal to metal fine work, which size/shape/material stones do you prefer?

I have all three for trigger work and other such purposes. I prefer Spyderco's kit of ceramic stones for fine adjustments (https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/stones/shaped-ceramic-stones-prod12610.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=SPYDERCO) because you simply use water with it and this replaces Arkansas stones (quartz) for fine work (hard and black) which you can use with water but fine mineral oil is better to keep the pores from getting clogged.

The spyderco set does similar to the hard Arkansas and black in that it polishes and cuts very little. Trigger work is more precision and polishing rather than removing material as a general rule.

The India stones, I use for cruder metal removal but not trigger work and one of the reasons it is cheaper. These are fairly brittle, clog easier, and are really best stored in oil. I don't bother with that as much for the really course India stones like 60 or 100 grit. You can simply buy them cheap via Amazon with a polyurethane plastic backer and use them much like a file. You apply oil to these at the point of use. Unbacked India Stones, store them in oil.

Pretty good summary from Norton Abrasives here.
https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/resources/expertise/choosing-sharpening-stone
 
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Arkansas stones are not all the same. Neither are India.

I compare stones individually because of that. Some of my stones are Arkansas, some are ceramic.

Generally speaking, my India stones are rougher and used for fast removal, but that could be simply what I happened to find first on the day I was looking for that grit. Once I fill a slot, I tend to stick with that stone until (usually) I drop it and break it.
 
Thanks guys, I’ll try a mix on scrap and see what works best for what. Makes sense since
On the frame behind the trigger return spring where it slide, the revolver could be blued or stainless steel; and also aluminum on the lightweight ones like Colt Cobras/Agents, or modern S&W snubbies, etc.
 
I use only ceramic stones for finer work on triggers. I use Windex for lubrication. It cleans the stone as you use it and it provides ever so slight lubrication which makes fine work a little easier.

on less fine work I use abrasive wet/dry paper and my surface plate.
 
I use only ceramic stones for finer work on triggers. I use Windex for lubrication. It cleans the stone as you use it and it provides ever so slight lubrication which makes fine work a little easier.

on less fine work I use abrasive wet/dry paper and my surface plate.
Interesting use of Windex. I can see where it might do a bit better than straight water with a little more lubricity. Any observed effect on the ceramic?
 
Interesting use of Windex. I can see where it might do a bit better than straight water with a little more lubricity. Any observed effect on the ceramic?

Like @drband, I have had no ill effects to my stones

I also have a few Spyderco bench stones and use them for sharpening knives, woodworking tools, and small lapping chores. Also use windex for those jobs. It also works great for diamond stones. I believe it was a woodworker named Paul Sellers who put me on to it. I really like it for the way it keeps the stones so clean.
 
Like @drband, I have had no ill effects to my stones

I also have a few Spyderco bench stones and use them for sharpening knives, woodworking tools, and small lapping chores. Also use windex for those jobs. It also works great for diamond stones. I believe it was a woodworker named Paul Sellers who put me on to it. I really like it for the way it keeps the stones so clean.
I have a bench stone that I use for planer blades so glad to know this trick. Thanks for posting it and to you also @drband
 
I have several india stones from my days in machining, and pocket knives. One that I got from a Norton Rep is really fine and I use it to touch up my knives and it would be good for trigger work.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
Windex; cool, Something new every day! Thanks for all the great info. Now I gotta buy another range club to try all this stuff I just learned out; like I needed another reason, lol!
 
Instead of polishing the sides of S&W hammers and Triggers look for rough spots on the frame. The internal boss should keep the sides from touching.
I like the fine and medium india stones for general work. Arkansas stones seem brittle for me.. 400 grit paper and higher can be used with a steel backing.
I have been spoiled with a set of Ruby stones. There from 1980 and the corners are still fresh and sharp. Cost is a object,
Harbor Freight sells a set of diamond coated jeweler files that are very handy.
 
Instead of polishing the sides of S&W hammers and Triggers look for rough spots on the frame. The internal boss should keep the sides from touching.
I like the fine and medium india stones for general work. Arkansas stones seem brittle for me.. 400 grit paper and higher can be used with a steel backing.
I have been spoiled with a set of Ruby stones. There from 1980 and the corners are still fresh and sharp. Cost is a object,
Harbor Freight sells a set of diamond coated jeweler files that are very handy.

Arkansas stones are indeed brittle but that is also why the hard ones are used for putting fine finishes on products such as a knife edge, they combine polishing and slight cutting but they work better with oil. That is one of the reasons that I am increasingly using ceramic synthetic stones for quick jobs as they provide the same function without the mess as water is pretty easy to deal with.
 
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