Suppressing a 116 Year Old Marlin

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MachIVshooter

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Last month, while recovering from hernia surgery, I was pretty bored and spent some time perusing Gunbroker. I've watched auctions on vintage Marlins in .25-20 before, but they usually go higher than I'm willing to pay. Well, this time I lucked out, was able to score this really nice little model 1894 .25-20 that was made in 1903 for $500. I was thrilled, this has been on my short list for years, just not at $800+ even for total beaters. No shortage of patina and stock dings on it, but that's part of the appeal for me; this rifle has been used, probably put dinner on the table many, many nights before someone set it down to pick up a 1903 Springfield and go fight the Germans the first time around. It likely continued to feed a family through the Great Depression until it was perhaps again stuffed in the closet while it's owner carried an M1 Garand through the battlefields of Europe or the South Pacific. Lord knows how many children were taught to shoot and hunt with this Beautiful, functional piece of history.

At any rate, I was a little hesitant to do this, don't especially like modifying such classics, even if they're not particularly valuable. But it's not a pristine gun, and I did the job in such a way that it really doesn't detract from the rifle's aesthetics or originality.

I absolutely did not want to cut back magazine and turn threads where there used to be octagon profile. Nope. Yuck! With the amount of meat on the .25 caliber barrel, another solution was perfectly viable. I chose to ream the bore back .500" and thread the barrel internally. I would like to have gone a little bigger, but the dovetailed piece for the magazine screw precluded stepping up to 7/16" or 1/2" thread size. So I did the internal threads 3/8-28 and made a 4150 chromoly adapter

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Did have to square the muzzle, but it didn't take a lot.

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The adapter has an internal 5/16" hex for removing/installing. Milled, not broached, hence the radiused corners

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It looks a little wrong, but sounds so much more right!

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And with the adapter removed, one would have to look real close at the muzzle from the front to know there was an alteration

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.25-20 is, of course, still a pretty zippy little cartridge, around 1,600 FPS with 86 gr. bullets, so sonic crack means it's not exactly a mouse fart, but sound is similar to suppressed .22 Hornet. I can probably drop the muzzle report a little with a can geared toward small volume cartridges, as my .26 caliber Phantom 8 is meant for full power rounds burning 40-60 gr powder charges. I think this neat little rifle also deserves a vintage looking blued steel suppressor with some octagon shaped end caps to match the barrel profile!
 
I have a Savage Model 23 bolt gun in 25 20 that I have suppressed using a Thompson Machine Zephyr 22LR can factory modified so as to allow .257/.258 diameter projectiles to pass through (they bored it out to .300 diameter and charged me an extra 25 bucks for the modification)

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If you would like a more slim suppressor so as not to obscure your front sight this may be something you could look into.

My first choice of 25 20 rifles to suppress was my somewhat modified/rebuilt (circa 1909) Winchester Model 92.

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It has no collected value and I paid next to nothing for it but finding someone to thread the bolt gun was much easier so that’s the route I took.

By the way, if you handload for the 25 20, 2.1 grains of Red Dot and an 85 grain flat point Missouri Bullet Company projectile is subsonic in my Savage and is whispering death on jack rabbits.
 
Unbelieveable, just looking at the same Marlin 94 rifle today at LGS and they wanted $1000 ! Bore was not good either. You are an incredible talent ! I am very jealous of your abilities and admire them. Think you need to do a Larand style suppressor for it tho . Thanks for sharing .
 
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Last month, while recovering from hernia surgery, I was pretty bored and spent some time perusing Gunbroker. I've watched auctions on vintage Marlins in .25-20 before, but they usually go higher than I'm willing to pay. Well, this time I lucked out, was able to score this really nice little model 1894 .25-20 that was made in 1903 for $500. I was thrilled, this has been on my short list for years, just not at $800+ even for total beaters. No shortage of patina and stock dings on it, but that's part of the appeal for me; this rifle has been used, probably put dinner on the table many, many nights before someone set it down to pick up a 1903 Springfield and go fight the Germans the first time around. It likely continued to feed a family through the Great Depression until it was perhaps again stuffed in the closet while it's owner carried an M1 Garand through the battlefields of Europe or the South Pacific. Lord knows how many children were taught to shoot and hunt with this Beautiful, functional piece of history.

At any rate, I was a little hesitant to do this, don't especially like modifying such classics, even if they're not particularly valuable. But it's not a pristine gun, and I did the job in such a way that it really doesn't detract from the rifle's aesthetics or originality.

I absolutely did not want to cut back magazine and turn threads where there used to be octagon profile. Nope. Yuck! With the amount of meat on the .25 caliber barrel, another solution was perfectly viable. I chose to ream the bore back .500" and thread the barrel internally. I would like to have gone a little bigger, but the dovetailed piece for the magazine screw precluded stepping up to 7/16" or 1/2" thread size. So I did the internal threads 3/8-28 and made a 4150 chromoly adapter

View attachment 829952
Did have to square the muzzle, but it didn't take a lot.

View attachment 829951

The adapter has an internal 5/16" hex for removing/installing. Milled, not broached, hence the radiused corners

View attachment 829950

It looks a little wrong, but sounds so much more right!

View attachment 829949
And with the adapter removed, one would have to look real close at the muzzle from the front to know there was an alteration

View attachment 829953

.25-20 is, of course, still a pretty zippy little cartridge, around 1,600 FPS with 86 gr. bullets, so sonic crack means it's not exactly a mouse fart, but sound is similar to suppressed .22 Hornet. I can probably drop the muzzle report a little with a can geared toward small volume cartridges, as my .26 caliber Phantom 8 is meant for full power rounds burning 40-60 gr powder charges. I think this neat little rifle also deserves a vintage looking blued steel suppressor with some octagon shaped end caps to match the barrel profile!

You live and learn. Or you don't live long.

Robert A. Heinlein
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"Time Enough for Love". Book by Robert A. Heinlein, 1973.
 
Case hardened finish on the suppressor would be awesome with octagon end caps too, but that would be a pain to do...

True CCH, yes, but I can flame color it. The patterns and colors aren't as brilliant or intricate, but similar effect. Ti gives really pretty colors with flame anodizing, but they'd be a bit bright for this application

IMG_2900.JPG

I have a Savage Model 23 bolt gun in 25 20 that I have suppressed using a Thompson Machine Zephyr 22LR can factory modified so as to allow .257/.258 diameter projectiles to pass through (they bored it out to .300 diameter and charged me an extra 25 bucks for the modification)

If you would like a more slim suppressor so as not to obscure your front sight this may be something you could look into.

Nice little Savage! I've watched a couple auctions on those, but they also usually go higher than I want to pay, same as Remington model 25s.

As for Thompson cans, they make some neat stuff, but I don't have any reason to buy another manufacturer's products. I have a piece of 1.25" OD .049" wall 4130 tube left over from another project that I had no plans to use in a production model, but it's perfect for this. We're gonna go 7" long, using more of a supersonic rifle baffle profile, but with rimfire-like spacing & quantity, and serviceable so that cast bullets are an option. It gives me an excuse to prototype a suppressor for these small caliber, small powder charge cartridges that are more potent than magnum rimfire but not into the territory of .223. One would think, logically, that greater internal volume translates to better suppression, but it doesn't actually work out that way. If the volume is so much that the smaller cartridge has insufficient gas volume & pressure to make use of the baffle features, you end up with more sound pressure exiting the front. My Accipiter, for example, is meant for .338-.375 cal rounds burning 90-110 grains of powder. The 1.8" x 10" critter works very well in that role, but is actually louder on a .308 bolt gun than my 1.5" x 9" Furtivus 30. And that's the issue with running my Phantom 8 (a 9 ounce hunting can I designed for .308 & .30-06 based cartridges) on a pipsqueak like the .25-20.
 
I know of a 35 rem 336 with a can, and it’s stinkin cool. The little quarterbore would be even cooler. Well done on the work too. If you end up building it it’s own can, I would suggest using hex stock, even if it’s just a slip cover.
 
True CCH, yes, but I can flame color it. The patterns and colors aren't as brilliant or intricate, but similar effect. Ti gives really pretty colors with flame anodizing, but they'd be a bit bright for this application

View attachment 830011



Nice little Savage! I've watched a couple auctions on those, but they also usually go higher than I want to pay, same as Remington model 25s.

As for Thompson cans, they make some neat stuff, but I don't have any reason to buy another manufacturer's products. I have a piece of 1.25" OD .049" wall 4130 tube left over from another project that I had no plans to use in a production model, but it's perfect for this. We're gonna go 7" long, using more of a supersonic rifle baffle profile, but with rimfire-like spacing & quantity, and serviceable so that cast bullets are an option. It gives me an excuse to prototype a suppressor for these small caliber, small powder charge cartridges that are more potent than magnum rimfire but not into the territory of .223. One would think, logically, that greater internal volume translates to better suppression, but it doesn't actually work out that way. If the volume is so much that the smaller cartridge has insufficient gas volume & pressure to make use of the baffle features, you end up with more sound pressure exiting the front. My Accipiter, for example, is meant for .338-.375 cal rounds burning 90-110 grains of powder. The 1.8" x 10" critter works very well in that role, but is actually louder on a .308 bolt gun than my 1.5" x 9" Furtivus 30. And that's the issue with running my Phantom 8 (a 9 ounce hunting can I designed for .308 & .30-06 based cartridges) on a pipsqueak like the .25-20.

I don't get twisted about what people do to their firearms but have to admit that when I read the title I thought, well, I won't say what I thought but it went along the lines of "why on earth---". After seeing the results of your project I have to say you did an excellent job of making what you wanted and basically preserving the looks of the old rifle. However, I have to ask that after molesting the old thing why the colors on that suppressor would bother you? :D
 
That looks much better than I imagined. With as good of work as you can do, you should do an octagon can that is just small enough to keep the sights functional.
 
That looks much better than I imagined. With as good of work as you can do, you should do an octagon can that is just small enough to keep the sights functional.

That's the plan. I had started one with 1-1/4" OD .049" wall 4130, but it moved in the vise while I was milling the flats, made a spot so thin I was able to press through it with my finger, so I'm waiting on a new piece of .060" wall.
 
@MachIVshooter , as others have said great job on the design and execution! I have a Marlin 1894 Cby in .45 Colt with a 20" octagon barrel that would be fun to suppress. I'm planning on buying a SilencerCo Hybrid soon for my .450 Bushmaster AR15 and I'd like to use it on my Marlin 1895 SBL in .45-70 Govt. Could I pay you to thread the muzzle of the 1895? :D
 
@MachIVshooter , as others have said great job on the design and execution! I have a Marlin 1894 Cby in .45 Colt with a 20" octagon barrel that would be fun to suppress. I'm planning on buying a SilencerCo Hybrid soon for my .450 Bushmaster AR15 and I'd like to use it on my Marlin 1895 SBL in .45-70 Govt. Could I pay you to thread the muzzle of the 1895? :D

Doesn’t hurt to ask ;)
 
Wrapped up the can today. 1.25" x 7", 4130 chromoly housing with hardened 440C mount, cap and baffles. It's a bit of a hybrid between rimfire and centerfire rifle cans, smaller blast chamber than the centerfires and baffle count for length more like rimfire (11 in this guy), but with more spacing, and using the steeper 50° asymmetric radius clipped cones I do for rifle cans. It's serviceable, since cast bullets will be on the menu. Sounds pretty good, seems like a proper balance of size & design for supersonic cartridges like the .25-20, .218 bee, .22 Hornet, etc. that are burning more powder than rimfire, but not in the same league as other centerfires. A little hefty for it's size with the all steel construction (12.4 oz), but doesn't affect the balance of the rifle. No dB figures yet, but I think right around 127, 128 with the 60 gr./2,200 FPS loads I was running.

Calling it the Ninety Four

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@MachIVshooter , as others have said great job on the design and execution! I have a Marlin 1894 Cby in .45 Colt with a 20" octagon barrel that would be fun to suppress. I'm planning on buying a SilencerCo Hybrid soon for my .450 Bushmaster AR15 and I'd like to use it on my Marlin 1895 SBL in .45-70 Govt. Could I pay you to thread the muzzle of the 1895? :D

Yeah, I can do them. Unless there's something weird about yours, I do 5/8-24 on the 1895. Shoulder is a little narrow, but sufficient. I actually haven't threaded my personal 1895, but it ends up about the same as the Camp Carbine .45, which I did thread mine:

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MachIVshooter said:
Yeah, I can do them. Unless there's something weird about yours, I do 5/8-24 on the 1895. Shoulder is a little narrow, but sufficient. I actually haven't threaded my personal 1895, but it ends up about the same as the Camp Carbine .45, which I did thread mine

I measured the O.D. at the muzzle of my 1895 and it's .782" which is almost .060" more than the recommended minimum of .725" for 5/8-24 threads. It's .500" from the end of the barrel to the dovetail cut on the underside which is a bit short given the recommended length of .600" from the shoulder to the end of the barrel.

1895_muzzle.jpg

I think that it would be much more of a challenge to figure out how to add a suppressor to the end of my Marlin 1894 Cowboy in .45 Colt. The flats measure at .720", the corners at .768" and it's only .322" from the end of the barrel to the dovetail cut.

1894_muzzle.jpg
 
I measured the O.D. at the muzzle of my 1895 and it's .782" which is almost .060" more than the recommended minimum of .725" for 5/8-24 threads. It's .500" from the end of the barrel to the dovetail cut on the underside which is a bit short given the recommended length of .600" from the shoulder to the end of the barrel.

That's a bit thicker than my 1895SS

I don't ever do .600" tenons unless it's specifically requested. A lot of muzzle devices will bottom out the fully cut threads on a .625" AR tenon without crush washer or shims.

My standard practice is:

.550" for centerfire rifle
.500" for PCCs
.450" for pistols
.400" for rimfire, unless SiCo spec'd threads

There'd be no problem with .450" tenon on the 1895, although we'd have to get a little creative with shortening the magazine & plug. Or we can do internal 5/8-24 threads with an adapter as my 1894.

I think that it would be much more of a challenge to figure out how to add a suppressor to the end of my Marlin 1894 Cowboy in .45 Colt. The flats measure at .720", the corners at .768" and it's only .322" from the end of the barrel to the dovetail cut.

Well, it's doable. One option is to shorten the barrel and cut new dovetails for the magazine screw plate & sight further back, thread it conventionally. Alternately, with the strength of materials like 17-4 and 440C, we can get enough strength out of short & thin tenons on adapters that we could get away with internally threading it 5/8-24 only .300" deep. It doesn't look to me like there's enough meat at the bottom of the dovetail cuts to counterbore & thread past them even with 9/16-40 (Same D min as .578-28).
 
@MachIVshooter , the internal threaded adapter seems like the best way to go for the 1895. Would you aim for the min minor diameter of .5800" and min major of .6250"? I'll PM you to set up a road trip for the 1895. The 1894 should probably be done the same way to keep it as original as possible. That one can wait a few months at least. Thanks.

MachIVshooter said:
I don't ever do .600" tenons unless it's specifically requested.

TBAC shows that .600" dimension on their drawings but I'm not sure how they arrived at that value.

MachIVshooter said:
.500" for PCCs

PCCs? Pistol Caliber Carbines? :p
 
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