Suppressor QD Mount and muzzle device preferance

[Sgt_Mike1]

Which is your preferred mount and corresponding muzzle device ( not the suppressor itself, just mounting system to host)?
And why?
You get two votes so you can add your runner up.

I think it would be interesting to see what others Like and why.

 

[Havok7416]

I have several Ecco Helix's and several SilencerCo ASR mounts. Those mounts are all to support just 2 cans on a total of 3 guns (4 in a pinch). Everything else (5 total) is direct thread and all the cans are basically permanently mated to the gun they are on, even though most of those cans are interchangeable.

 

[mavracer]

I don't have experience with all the systems I have a Gemtech ONE and have their biloc style mounts on 3 guns and have 2 with Lantac Dragon brakes for the Gemtech. It's an ok system very quick. The Lantac brake on my 16" 5.56 unsuppressed is the most neutral brake I've ever shot the gun just doesn't move.
I voted for Griffin and specifically their taper lock. I love the variety of styles and that there are some very light options the best thing IMHO is with their plan A adapter it adds basically no length over direct threading.

 

[Demi-human]

I voted “Who cares, I direct thread only…”

However, I am here to see the pros and cons to differing mounting systems that other humans are running. I don’t care, per se, but I am rather interested in this subject before I buy five additional mounting caps and put yet another piece of metal on nine of my firearms.

Thank you for asking the question for me @Sgt_Mike1 .

 

[Sgt_Mike1]

However, I am here to see the pros and cons to differing mounting systems that other humans are running. I don’t care, per se, but I am rather interested in this subject before I buy five additional mounting caps and put yet another piece of metal on nine of my firearms.

@Demi-human Yes it is pretty much why I started it, hoping some would comment on alignment, or better locking features. I just ordered a YHM 3060 Phantom QD mount to try on the Silencerco can I have. So that I can compare it to the Bravo QD mount that came with my can. Just waiting on the mini Phantom Muzzle brake to get back in stock, or just order the Yankee Hill 430228A QD Light Tactical Flash Hider.
Here is the mount:


here is the mini Phantom muzzle brake






The other mount that Yankee Hill that interest me has is the sRx QD Mount which is also a 1.375-24 and the "Kurtz" type. But honestly I really need to check out the ECCO gyrex QD before the sRx or kurtz from YHM

(man those images was a lot smaller when I did a link to them ???)

 

[Sgt_Mike1]

Now I can speak / address the YHM Wraith XL series in 45 cal. The mount to the can is welded so I can't share it with anything but that setup. so it is zero interchangeable but aligns and locks up just like the previous video I posted.

I really like the Wraith XL setup and there is dimension difference between the Flash hiders and the cans that prevent one from screwing a 9XL can onto a 45 XL flash hider (host). I prefer it to the Silencerco "bravo" ASR mount on the Silencerco can (Omega 300)


The video is about 5 years old, and the YHN 3060 doesn't index exacly like in the video But does index on the chamfer of the FH / MB / muzzle device

 

[N555]

I do direct thread or direct thread with thread adapter. Those tend to be lighter, cheaper, shorter.

 

[mcb]

I am still using 51T...

 

[MachIVshooter]

I do direct thread or direct thread with thread adapter. Those tend to be lighter, cheaper, shorter.

But slower to remove & install, and less repeatable than a good taper mount, which can affect POI consistency.

Direct thread is also prone to loosening up, especially on autoloader when subjected to higher rates of fire.

I prefer taper mounts for virtually all rifle applications. The only rifle cans I direct thread are for big game hunting where I am counting ounces. I run our Gyrex on everything else, and aside from the retention and repeatability, another advantage of standardizing on one system is being able to move cans around from host to host without swapping mounts. When a customer comes out, we can put a Gyrex brake on their host and grab a half dozen models for them to try, don't need to bring tools and waste time changing out DT mounts.

There's also the aspect of brakes acting as sacrificial blast baffles, which is a consideration with short barreled autoloaders. Flash hider muzzle devices, OTOH, will actually accelerate baffle wear if they're an open tine design.

 

[Sgt_Mike1]

There's also the aspect of brakes acting as sacrificial blast baffles, which is a consideration with short barreled autoloaders. Flash hider muzzle devices, OTOH, will actually accelerate baffle wear if they're an open tine design.

That is something I had not considered. luckily I only have one that is open tine, easily replaced

prefer taper mounts for virtually all rifle applications. The only rifle cans I direct thread are for big game hunting where I am counting ounces. I run our Gyrex on everything else, and aside from the retention and repeatability, another advantage of standardizing on one system is being able to move cans around from host to host without swapping mounts.

In observing the mounts, although I haven't actually did a side by side comparison yet. The yankee hill YHM-3060 mount I ordered is in (which also indexes on a taper, although not as pronounced in appearances as the ECCO). I'll be soon be ordering the ECCO setup (next month outta my allowance LOL) to see which mount I prefer.

There are things I do like about my Silencerco "ASR" QD mount, but there are some things that are lacking. That being said I think there is are better mounts. Which is the reason for this thread.

But like @MachIVshooter stated my objective is to actually pick a QD mounting system /type that I can swap off two differing Cans with the same system to various host with minimal POI and increased repeatability. thus allowing one type of muzzle device across differing host.
BTW I have not voted because I haven't settled on which I prefer yet.

 

[mavracer]

There's also the aspect of brakes acting as sacrificial blast baffles, which is a consideration with short barreled autoloaders. Flash hider muzzle devices, OTOH, will actually accelerate baffle wear if they're an open tine design.

Just out of curiosity can you see any difference on a meter between having a brake with a suppressor vs a flash hider or direct thread?

 

[MachIVshooter]

Just out of curiosity can you see any difference on a meter between having a brake with a suppressor vs a flash hider or direct thread?

Yes, and sometimes it's enough of a difference to be audible, as much as 4-6 dB. But as with anything suppressor, it's more than sum of parts, so just because that kind of additional reduction was realized with a particular can on a particular host doesn't mean it will translate to others.

Improving blast chamber efficiency is the entire purpose of the design on our helix port brakes. They're not great open air brakes, not designed for recoil reduction and not good for prone shooting where there is dirt or debris on the ground. But we did see notable SPL reduction in every test using high velocity rifle rounds, moreso with shorter suppressors and higher exit pressures. With low pressure & subsonic stuff, just not enough gas pressure & volume to make them do what they were designed to do, so the benefit is negligible.

 

[mavracer]

Yes, and sometimes it's enough of a difference to be audible, as much as 4-6 dB. But as with anything suppressor, it's more than sum of parts, so just because that kind of additional reduction was realized with a particular can on a particular host doesn't mean it will translate to others.

Interesting. I have one of the Griffin Paladin brakes on my Ruger Precision 22 and their three prong mount on my American Rimfire 22 mag. I might flip flop them and see if I can hear any difference. It might maybe (probably not lol) be beneficial to have the brake on the mag to save a little wear on the baffles. I doubt I shoot it anywhere near enough to wear it though. But it costs nada.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Interesting. I have one of the Griffin Paladin brakes on my Ruger Precision 22 and their three prong mount on my American Rimfire 22 mag. I might flip flop them and see if I can hear any difference. It might maybe (probably not lol) be beneficial to have the brake on the mag to save a little wear on the baffles. I doubt I shoot it anywhere near enough to wear it though. But it costs nada.

Unless the .22 WMR is full auto and your baffles are aluminum, I wouldn't worry about that. It takes a lot more heat, pressure and particulate than the round produces. We've hammered the .030" thick 7075 aluminum baffles in some of our early Ocelots with mag dump after mag dump on the1,200 RPM 10/22 postie with virtually no effect.

Short barreled 5.56, on the other hand, can make short work of blast baffles with heavy rapid/full auto fire. Get the can good and hot to where the metal is softer and keep hammering it with the flame front and supersonic particulate, erosion happens pretty quickly. Better to have that erosion occurring primarily on a cheap and easily replaced non-NFA part.

There is one precaution to take with all muzzle devices, brakes included: If they are too close to the blast baffle, they will focus everything on the second baffle, which is usually not as thick and sometimes made of less heat & abrasion resistant materials. I would recommend an absolute minimum of 1/4" between muzzle device and blast baffle with high velocity rifle rounds, preferably more.

 

[Sgt_Mike1]

I would recommend an absolute minimum of 1/4" between muzzle device and blast baffle with high velocity rifle rounds, preferably more.

@MachIVshooter that 0.250" at minimum you suggest is not the first time I've heard that from a type7 SOT making suppressors. several make that very same statement of distance from end of muzzle device to first blast baffle especially in the 5.56mm bore.
While everyone was responding to this thread I checked the SilencerCo Can (Omega 300) I have which comes up short for ECCO mount and muzzle device. With that said I also know that I can work around that with a mount extension to gain my desired internal distance.



the above item (mount extension ) will add 0.750" so where I come up short with my Omega (Ecco recommended 1.6" distance to first baffle versus my actual distance to first baffle of 1.530") that extension would allow my existing can to work with the ECCO Gyrex system.

Now the Yankee Hill setup (YHM 3060 with the mini Phantom Muzzle brake YHM-3102) I want to try versus the ECCO Gyrex system will not require the extension. bottom lefthand picture



Now which one will be the best for ease of quick change, alignment and general usage. I'll just have to check /test between the two differing mounts.
Now this is not a shameless plug for MachIVshooter, it is me however looking at his design and having a open mind. Then testing it against another manufacturer that I like as well (Yankee Hill). With that being said I have contacted him about his mount conversations on a older suppressor that the manufacturer is no longer in business I own, which I'm stoked about his attitude and pricing to have it done. But before that can be done I need to settle on a mounting system that will be used on the Omega and the older can before a conversation can be done.

The existing SilencerCo mount has a attribute I'm personally not too found of with it's locking (the locking ear wear rapidly when a person attempts to remove it without unlocking first, or trying to attach it on while it's in the locked position). Amazing how your offspring and friends can show you how to abuse your equipment even when you explain to them proper use before they use it.
As such I find it important for folks to vote in case I'm overlooking a good mounting system

 

[mavracer]

Unless the .22 WMR is full auto and your baffles are aluminum, I wouldn't worry about that. It takes a lot more heat, pressure and particulate than the round produces. We've hammered the .030" thick 7075 aluminum baffles in some of our early Ocelots with mag dump after mag dump on the1,200 RPM 10/22 postie with virtually no effect.

Short barreled 5.56, on the other hand, can make short work of blast baffles with heavy rapid/full auto fire. Get the can good and hot to where the metal is softer and keep hammering it with the flame front and supersonic particulate, erosion happens pretty quickly. Better to have that erosion occurring primarily on a cheap and easily replaced non-NFA part.

Yes I was less concerned about baffle wear than just wondering if I could hear any difference even though I know I probably won't because "the sum of my parts" are stacked to the side of minimal change.
I have the 2 port Paladin brake in my 5.56 SBR and was thinking when I did it that the brake would be a good idea glad to have it confirmed.
Like I said it would cost me nothing but a little time anyway.
I really wanted to get the Griffin taper mount Levang style linear for my rimfires but the 22 version was out of stock everywhere which is how I ended up with the 3 prong mount.