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paladinj

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Hi all,

I just did a trigger job on my semi-auto 12 gauge Turkish shotgun. The pull is just a bit better, but I noticed that when dry-firing there is no longer as much noise or shaking.

I did not cut any springs at all, and just polished with fine file and dremel polishing bit the trigger and sear engagement surfaces. When I fire the trigger pack outside of the gun it punches into wood and hurts quite a bit.

Since these semi-auto shotgun trigger packs are pretty common are there any particular problems that can arise out of this?

I wanted to test for light strikes , so I took a spent shell, hammered the primer out, flattened it out with an exact fitting punch and forced it back in to the spent case. It was difficult to get it back in the chamber but I closed on it and dry-fired on the spent primer. The dimple was quite shallow, but then again I'm concerned that I hammered the spent primer out too far and reinforced it too much.

I did another test with a small cotton buffing wheel placed on the center of the bolt with the gun pointed up. The firing pin shot the piece of cotton almost through the entire 20" barrel. What indication is that? Could someone try that with a small cotton buffing wheel on their functioning 12 gauge?

Any way to test without firing live ammo?

Maybe the reduced noise and shaking because I oiled up the trigger components and got the grit out?
 
Your spent shell test. Seating a primer to hard can make the case head concave. A case head surface that curves inward moves the primer away from the firing pin. Live ammo is a better test.

ince these semi-auto shotgun trigger packs are pretty common are there any particular problems that can arise out of this?

If the hammer sear engagement is to light , the hammer may follow the bolt down.

Or the hammer may be delayed by the sear just long enough to fire the second round. Like in full auto. Doesn't matter if the disconnector is engaged .
 
Thank you for the response. The pull is at 8 pounds right now down from what must have been eleven.

I checked both situations, the hammer never follows the bolt down and when the trigger is held down and the action cycles the hammer does not release, although if this is done excessively the trigger binds and must be disassembled in order to free the snagged tension leaf spring.

Do you think it's likely that oiling cleaning grit would bring the volume of dry firing down?

I guess I will have to schedule it for testing.
 
Dear friends, something freaky has happened,

I realized that I put in the trigger tension spring backwards, and that this as the source of the rare previous jam.

Now that it is in correctly I have what must be a 3 pound crisp break. :what:

I smacked it from all directions, dropped it from standing height directly on the buttstock a few times and no hammer release. I dropped it with the bolt locked to the rear and the vibration was so great it released the bolt forward but did not fire.

I will keep checking to see if I really did install it correctly.:what:

EDIT: This trigger is better than my deer rifle, albeit I keep it at a conservative 4.5 pound crisp break

Apparently, the safety on this model only engages when the mechanism is cocked, I guess this is so that someone can check whether they are cocked or not and know that an empty gun is ready to go the moment it is loaded unless the safety in engaged? I just noticed now but I think it was always like this.
 
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Nevermind, it's safe, but its in wrong, the trigger itself and not the mechanism will not reset unless the mechanism resets it, so that tension spring is not working for some reason, even though it it installed correctly.
 
The torsion spring is dead and no longer a spring, but the action still resets the trigger and the hammer cannot release unless the trigger is pulled, albeit with 2.5 pound trigger pull.

Did this tacticool shotgun always want to be a custom competitive skeet gun?

Should I call it a day? o_O
 
Take it to a gun smith before firing, to see if its safe to shoot.

Seen more than a few auto loading shotgun problems made , by not having the parts under the forearm installed correctly. Or a part was lost.

The trigger can be more dangerous, if something is not done correctly.

Good luck with your project. Be safe.
 
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Thank you for the advice, glad I caught a mistake.

Upon further scrutiny I discovered that the disengagement of the safety engaged with the hammer forward would trigger the hammer to fall forward again, making the safety a second trigger. This was resolved by returning the spring to the original factory position and some adjustment of it. Trigger pull is unchanged except with a slight amount of takeup added, still a light crisp break.

The issue does not occur and all safety tests are passed, trigger resets to normal position even without cycling of action.
 
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