The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Welcome. I was lucky, had b/p pistol as a teen, many yrs ago, and always wanted the ROA, my idea of the Rolls of the B/P revolvers, finally jumped in the early90's before they stopped making them and prices were more reasonable, got another as the prices started to climb, I do own some of the Italians, but mostly shoot the ROA's, they're my only stainless and much easier to clean up.
 
Here's my joining pics
Recently picked these beauties up from a club member that was giving up shooting. Couldn't resist buying both. Have yet to shoot the fixed sight, was meant to get to the range this morning but we've got snow, sleet and rain here in England so will have to wait till next week.
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Hoppo7

Welcome to THR and congrats on picking up to fine looking BP revolvers! That fixed sight ROA is sure a beauty!
 
BullSlinger said:
I have not had problems with RWS and ROA original nipples.So I have no idea what may be causing the problems but as others have stated a change of nipples may be in order. Not an expensive way to try and solve your problem. Good luck and let us know what happens.
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Hi again. I did order new nipples from Track of the wolf, and i tried them today for the first time. Still jamming caps. I have an idea that the cap gets stuck on the hammer and pulled into the slot when i cock it. Polishing of the hammer maybe is worth trying. What kind of powder do you guys use? I can get swiss and 777 here. The 777 is more expensive and i have heard that you have to compress it exactly the same everytime to get good precision. Any thougths on that?
 
Stellan said:
Hi again. I did order new nipples from Track of the wolf, and i tried them today for the first time. Still jamming caps. I have an idea that the cap gets stuck on the hammer and pulled into the slot when i cock it. Polishing of the hammer maybe is worth trying. What kind of powder do you guys use? I can get swiss and 777 here. The 777 is more expensive and i have heard that you have to compress it exactly the same everytime to get good precision. Any thougths on that?
Click to expand...
I've got 2 stainless ROA's and polished them and rounded all the sharp corners on the hammers, haven't had a cap problem since. Real Black is always the best way to go, especially if it's cheaper, and Swiss has velocities close to 777, so why pay more.
 
robhof said:
I've got 2 stainless ROA's and polished them and rounded all the sharp corners on the hammers, haven't had a cap problem since. Real Black is always the best way to go, especially if it's cheaper, and Swiss has velocities close to 777, so why pay more.
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Same problem with one of my stainless ROA's (Still yet to shoot the other so may have same problem) New to this polishing lark so forgive the dumb question, did you round off the four edges of the hammer? also don't have any fine files, would 1200 grit paper be suitable?.
By coincidence I was only just watching a you-tube on exactly this fix although that was to do with the hammer safety notch burrs sucking the caps on a Colt. Obviously the ROA doesn't have the notch on the hammer so can't understand why the caps occasionally get pulled back by the hammer.
 
Hoppo7 said:
Same problem with one of my stainless ROA's (Still yet to shoot the other so may have same problem) New to this polishing lark so forgive the dumb question, did you round off the four edges of the hammer? also don't have any fine files, would 1200 grit paper be suitable?.
By coincidence I was only just watching a you-tube on exactly this fix although that was to do with the hammer safety notch burrs sucking the caps on a Colt. Obviously the ROA doesn't have the notch on the hammer so can't understand why the caps occasionally get pulled back by the hammer.
Click to expand...
Grinding an polishing is something that i have spent more time on than anything else, so i can answer that. 1200 grit paper will work just fine, but depending on how rough the surface is, you might have to be rubbing for a while. If you are about to polish eith some paste, by hand without machine, it might be a good idea to get som 2000 grit paper to use before polish.
 
I use mostly Olde Eynsford by Goex which was made to compete with Swiss. It's give similar velocities but at a cheaper price and supports American jobs. I also still shoot Triple 7 but not so much anymore.

What caps are you using? I've not had any cap jam issues and use Rem #10's. But I never had issues with jamming from CCI #11 mags (failure to fire often enough though).
 
rodwha said:
I use mostly Olde Eynsford by Goex which was made to compete with Swiss. It's give similar velocities but at a cheaper price and supports American jobs. I also still shoot Triple 7 but not so much anymore.

What caps are you using? I've not had any cap jam issues and use Rem #10's. But I never had issues with jamming from CCI #11 mags (failure to fire often enough though).
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I can only find CCI:s and RWS here in Finland, and since it is classified as explosive, it would be really expensive to import Remingtons from the US.
 
Yeah, I also have CCI No11 and RWS 1075's at the moment. I probably only get one cap jam once in every 4 or 5 loads. I'm fairly new to black powder so don't know if this is a normal average. Might also try some Remington's as we don't have any problems buying these in the UK, along with polishing the hammers.
 
I have never had a cap jam. I've used an old tin of Rem #11's that needed pinched to stay on, a few tins of CCI #11 mags that often needed two strikes to ignite, and maybe 25-30 tins of Rem #10's that fit nicely and work well as long as the priming compound hadn't fallen out.
 
Noz said:
Remington #10s will solve most of your cap gun problems. Pair them with good aftermarket nipples and you have a very reliable gun.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately Remington caps aren't offered where he is in Europe.

With that in mind I'd see what nipples seem to pair well for RWS.
 
rodwha said:
Unfortunately Remington caps aren't offered where he is in Europe.

With that in mind I'd see what nipples seem to pair well for RWS.
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The Rws fits really well on the Totw-nipples, the never fall off and they always fire, but they stick on the hammer, and locks up the cylinder. But, i hope the hammer polish will do the trick. Otherwise i will import a big bag of Remingtons from the US to have for the rest of my life
 
Stellan said:
The Rws fits really well on the Totw-nipples, the never fall off and they always fire, but they stick on the hammer, and locks up the cylinder. But, i hope the hammer polish will do the trick. Otherwise i will import a big bag of Remingtons from the US to have for the rest of my life
Click to expand...

The CCI's you've tried, where they the standard #11 (non magnum)?
 
Stellan said:
Standard. I have not seen the Magnums here. What is the difference?
Click to expand...

The Magnums have a hotter ignition meant more for substitute powders. With more priming compound they didn't fit quite right and often required a second strike to ignite as the first would seat it a bit further.
 
This might be a stupid question, but is there a "correct" way to hold a revolver with grips like these? I think i have a better feeling when holding it with all fingers, but then the trigger finger rests to much on the frame. If i hold it like in the other picture, i get better feeling for the trigger, but less feeling for the revolver. Any ideas to share with a rookie?
 

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