Thinking of getting another AR while they are cheap

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Balrog

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AR prices are so low right now I am thinking of getting another. I would probably want to just get a standard model. I am thinking of either the S&W M&P Sport II or equivalent Ruger.

How do S&W versus Ruger AR's compare to each other?

My reference point is the Colt 6920. How do they compare to the Colt?
 
AR prices are so low right now I am thinking of getting another. I would probably want to just get a standard model. I am thinking of either the S&W M&P Sport II or equivalent Ruger.

How do S&W versus Ruger AR's compare to each other?

My reference point is the Colt 6920. How do they compare to the Colt?
go ar10 308 20 inch barrel or 22

skip the ar 15s if i were you can use it for long range snipering also
 
I have an M&P 15 and can recommend it.
I can also vouch for the M&P. To compare the two you are splitting g very fine hairs and they are essentially the same. As far as I know the rugerhad a 1:8 twist vs the S&W which had a 1:9.

The only thing I came to discover about my smith that I didnt really like is that the BCG is not FA. Does it really matter? Probably not. It has never failed with any type of ammo.

I could be wrong but I also believe the ruger is hammer forged while the Smith is melonite. Personally I think I prefer melonite. If you put a psa, ruger or smith in front of me to choose I dont know if I would pick one over the other. I really like the smith and PSA can be had for less but every bit as good imo
 
Both the S&W M&P Sport II and the Ruger AR-556 (the most common models of these guns) have a strange quirk: they have bayonet lugs, but the distance from the bayonet lug to the flash hider is too long to mount a standard bayonet. Why have a bayo lug at all? This is a deal-breaker for me because I like to keep my guns as mil-spec as possible.

(The Colt 6920 is the same way. The reason these guns are configured in this way is that they wanted to use a standard M4 carbine length handguard, but with a legal 16" barrel. A better solution would have been to use the M4's 14.5" barrel with a permanently pinned, slightly longer flash hider.)

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...a2-flash-suppressor-22-caliber-prod64584.aspxhttps://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...a2-flash-suppressor-22-caliber-prod64584.aspx

I like the S&W as a stripped receiver. It has very classy markings (the S&W monogram on one side and "M&P" on the other). I have one on my favorite A2 build.
 
I can also vouch for the M&P. To compare the two you are splitting g very fine hairs and they are essentially the same. As far as I know the rugerhad a 1:8 twist vs the S&W which had a 1:9.

The only thing I came to discover about my smith that I didnt really like is that the BCG is not FA. Does it really matter? Probably not. It has never failed with any type of ammo.

I could be wrong but I also believe the ruger is hammer forged while the Smith is melonite. Personally I think I prefer melonite. If you put a psa, ruger or smith in front of me to choose I dont know if I would pick one over the other. I really like the smith and PSA can be had for less but every bit as good imo

The Ruger AR-556 does not have a "full auto" mil-spec BCG either. In fact it has an unshrouded lower around the firing pin, and there's a cosmetic difference in that the bolt carrier is faceted rather than cyljndrical. However, neither if these keep it from functioning well.

I have several AR-15s and not all have mil spec "fa" bolt carriers. All of tgem, however, function just fine.

The Ruger, as I've noted elsewhere, has a nice Delta ring characteristic; it unscrews rather than being spring loaded. This makes handguard swapping real easy, should you consider it important.
 
So many flavors and we’re choosing between two vanillas! Honestly though there are scores of configurations that turn the “chore” of practicing with your AR into a pleasant experience. I recently got my hands on a Magpul Slimline handguard and now I’m rethinking my RRA upper project. A few rifle length gas MLOK uppers have me thinking I need even more of the same, and I’ve been eyeing a few tube forends for sport builds.

There’s nothing wrong with either the Smith or Ruger, and both were excellent values when they hit the market. The slight downside is that both have been eclipsed by other makers in both price and features. If you’re undecided, pick up a few completed lowers or stripped lowers and lpks for when the mood strikes.

Between vanilla and vanilla I’d pick the M&P I suppose and spring for a heavier buffer and Troy rear sight.
 
The Ruger AR-556 does not have a "full auto" mil-spec BCG either. In fact it has an unshrouded lower around the firing pin,
The unshrouded BCG, if that is what it has, is a serious drawback. This was introduced by Colt, back in the early 70's. The idea was that, in combination with the notched hammer, it would jam the gun if the disconnector was removed in an attempt to have uncontrolled automatic fire. But the gun might jam anyway if a normal firing pin is installed instead of the special small-collar pin. I wouldn't want this possible unreliability in my gun.
 
The unshrouded BCG, if that is what it has, is a serious drawback.

I have fired many thousands of rounds through mine with good and bad ammo and havent found it to be a serious drawback. I do however prefer just a mil spec FA BCG.

I just havent had any issues with it and I've run it really dirty. I just dont want the OP going "oh my God oh my God now I have to rethink this whole thing because of the non FA BCG". Lol. Besides you can always buy a mil spec BCG for $50-$70 if you feel you really need to.... or if you want a really bombproof BCG eat the bullet and spend $150 on the BCM BCG
 
Both Ruger and S&W make good guns for sure, but At that price point, you might consider PSA.

I used to avoid them a few years ago, but I think they’ve come a LONG WAY towards consistency and customer service. And they really do focus on these platforms quite well.

Just a thought.
Yeah, PSA might be the way to go because you can get CHF or 4150CMV at a lower price point and the 2 PSA builds I have I couldnt be happier with. You could also get a complete rifle with an upper with a free floated aluminum handguard for basically the same or less than the 2 options stated before.

If you dont want to build you can buy the complete lowers and uppers or complete rifles too. Sometimes if you go the PSA route you end up with some pricey upgrade for basically free. Like a red dot or MOE upgrades that dont really seem to factor in when you consider the price. I dont really know how they do it.....
 
223 drop

308 drop

Your data looks like gibberish, but I’ll say this as a response - the fact you’re intimidated by shooting 800 yards and actually hitting targets doesn’t mean it’s actually difficult.

You’ve also made quite the mistake in your data somewhere. A 308win is dropping far more than 70.3” at 800 yards. You’ve compared 900 yard data for the 223rem against what would be 560yrd data for the 308win.

223rem 73 ELD’s at 800 yards = ~175”

65880F1E-4E4C-468D-9D1A-B6DE61CBE3E0.png

308win 168 ELD at 800 yards = ~181”

839A82C2-5011-4924-93D4-32E4D8994B6A.png
 
The unshrouded BCG, if that is what it has, is a serious drawback. This was introduced by Colt, back in the early 70's. The idea was that, in combination with the notched hammer, it would jam the gun if the disconnector was removed in an attempt to have uncontrolled automatic fire. But the gun might jam anyway if a normal firing pin is installed instead of the special small-collar pin. I wouldn't want this possible unreliability in my gun.


I checked my Ruger AR-556 against my Colt in this regard. It's difficult to be sure as the Colt firing pin collar is hard to see but the Ruger seems to have a smaller collar. I don't have time right now to disassemble the two BCGs to check actual dimensions.
In any case, it's a relatively easy change-out .... one thing I seem to have acquired in a little quantity is bolt carrier groups and related small parts.

Like DUSTYGMT above my Ruger has had no problems, and from what I've gathered from Internet chatter, many owners like them.

I myself do like the FA carrier but I have several ARs that have other styles and all of them work just fine, in my experience. YMMV.
 
Not much real world difference between the Ruger and S&W entry level AR's. Both will be reliable and do what you ask of them. Both will be looked down on by Colt snobs. If it were me I'd probably spring for a few more dollars and pick up a Ruger MPR, they can be found pretty often for under $600 and has some nice additional features.
 
The unshrouded BCG, if that is what it has, is a serious drawback.

This is really exaggerated. The odds of a spec issue between an FP collar and unshrouded BCG is overstated, and frankly - Don’t use a notched hammer. Problem solved.

Shrouded and unshrouded work just fine. Having a safety feature which prevents the rifle from doubling or running full rattle trap in the event of a part failure is generally a good thing. You’re far more likely to run into a mis-feed from a bad mag, or a failure to fire from a bad primer than run into any issue with an unshrouded bolt carrier.
 
The M&P Sport II vs Ruger 556 is a fair comparison. It's the lowest offering of both lines by quality manufacturers. They are basically the same rifle: 16", carbine gas, entry level. If you're going point for point, make sure you compare the Ruger #8500 to the S&W #10202 (or just make sure you are comparing equivalent models).
Both offer upgraded furniture under different model numbers.

Ruger has a few basic addons, like the grip, QD socket on the FSB, muzzle device is their own - not exactly an A2 birdcage, but not different enough to matter.

M&P SII has plain jane furniture.

1:8 vs 1:9. This doesn't matter enough to tip a decision point. As much as people like to advise bullet weights for certain twists, the individual barrel will have preferences. I have seen 1:7's not shoot 68-75gr well and actually prefer 55gr. Go figure. One of the first uppers I ever had was a 1:9 Rock river HBar

Nitride vs CHF: I noticed that the Ruger is advertised as CHF, but not chrome lined. Sport 2 is nitrided...... oh, I'm sorry. It's armornite'd - hahaha. This decision point is a wash also. If you ever intended on shooting this upper full auto, like 0.1% of America, you wouldn't be looking at these two rifles. If you ever actually get the round count on either that is high enough to break a bolt, either would just go back to the manufacturer for service.

Semi auto BCG: I would have zero concerns over this. Manufacturers have been producing them for years. There are no epidemic problems or recalls. Those who want to pound their chest the hardest that they have a FA carrier typically aspire to an operator lifestyle that will never will never be attained. They wouldn't be looking at these rifles either.

My reference point is the Colt 6920. How do they compare to the Colt?
The 6920 is near the bottom of Colt's line, but is the better rifle. The Colt upper will run full auto. It's chrome lined, but not CHF. It's 1:7 twisted. Plain jane furniture. Not trying to be a jerk, but the Ruger or S&W are more likely to have better accuracy than the 6920 with typical 55gr ammo.

Final thoughts: Just being honest, I dislike the 16" M4gery - haha. How long has it been since you've heard that term! The evolution of the AR makes all three of these rifles look old. I personally would spend more on something that has better features. Like a free float rail instead of staring at a FSB when you put an optic on it. Like 16" midlength gas or 18" rifle gas for smoother operation. Like something that may offer a discounted upgraded trigger. Like something that offers or already has upgraded furniture.

Of these two, the answer to the how do they compare question is that they are basically very similar.
 
To be honest, if you own a Colt 6920, I wouldn't get either the Smith or the Ruger. They're both good rifles, but they're basically identical to what you already have, and you'll find yourself without much of a reason to shoot them.

If you're buying an AR "just 'cause", I would build a kit gun just for the experience and to say you did it. As far as which kit - go for something a little different. DMR build, A1/A2 retro rifle, Mlok free float upper with all the tactical goodies thrown on there, whatever floats your boat. PSA is definitely the best place to get a cheap kit.

EDIT: This is one kit that's been tempting me for a while. Pencil barrel (which I'm a huge sucker for) + stainless + free float + polished trigger + Magpul stock, for $425 with shipping. You would need to buy a lower and a punch set if you don't have one, but I'd be shocked if the final price came out to any higher than the Smith or Ruger.

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...m-lok-moe-ept-rifle-kit-w-mbus-sight-set.html
 
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