Three vs Four blade broadheads

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Ive shot 6 deer w mech heads and all 6 recovered easily.

NAP spitfires....on kinda heavy arrows, from 70# plus compounds, and no steep angles to vitals.

All pretty much broadside except one, that was straight on and peeking through a pine tree at me.

Shot him in the throat patch and he ran w nose on ground and butt in air at Mach speed. Then spun at 50 yards and was dead. Drizzly day, got down and fetched arrow. Walking to him my Scentlok pants were soaked from CRP grass contact. So I wiped em w my hand to sheet some water off. And my hand was red.

Gusher he was.
 
Limited exp w mechs, but all positive.
Many use mechs to "fix" a tune issue.
An improvement seen for many means they think they have arrived.

Then the horrors stories come.

There is no work around.

Mechs offer some advantages. Wont plane and can run smaller fletch....so less affected by wind

High perf gear and longer shots....might be great.
 
You dont shoot critters unless your arrows are flying good.
Unfortunately many think the ability to hold some sort of group is proof of arrow flight quality

Crap can be repeatable LOL
 
Met q mgmnt guy at a shoot.
Had bad arrow flight, made some changes and said it was great.

Then he saw me shoot my bow.

Wow! i can't see your arrows fly!

Told him " you proly shouldnt inside of 20 "
He and other recurve guys were stunned.

Has happened too many times to count.
My Widow was quiet and fast and w white nocks.....lasered em in. Paper tune and bare shaft showed same thing, perfect.

I changed mr mgmnts brace and sideplate and had him shoot his arrows. They were right for the job but his tune sucked.

He was mouth open stunned.

He couldnt see his arrows fly!

They hit lower than what he was used to, but they were also smacking into each other going straight into the target.

Best groups ever.

You can talk on email, forums etc....but for some, until they "see/ unsee" great arrow flight, they have no idea how good their stuff can shoot
 
Just irks me how gear gets blamed....esp when theres no carcass.

Having said that Id run whats been proven on X bows.
Every year theres something new thats hyped in the mags and shows.
Myself I dont need to be the experimenter.
 
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As mentioned above, don't get caught up in the hype of this or that brand. The game you'll be after deserves the best you can give it.

My friend and hunting buddy got me back into archery a bit more than a decade ago. We are somewhat anal about our hunting and we strive for perfection in our gear. He used a recommended broadhead and it failed horribly on a buck he had been after several years. Afterwards, between the two of us, we spent the better part of a year and a half trying different heads from just about every make or style.

Our hunting is usually up close and most shots are long at 30yds. We shot and tuned out to 50 and built our arrows as perfectly as we could. We studied all things arrows and penetration. Ed Ashby is a great read. Our final testing revolved around putting our choices through a ton of feral hog shoulders, ribs, necks and heads. We destroyed quite a bit of equipment but ended up with a deer killing final product. We found small 4 blade cut on contact broadheads, with sturdy sharp blades on FMJ arrows do just what we need on deer or hogs.

Practice is paramount to ranges twice as far as your likely to shoot. We use orange ear plugs to aim at, trust me they are tiny at 40yds but doable. Don't cut corners, don't cheap out, and you'll never second guess yourself or your equipment.
 
I am about to buy a crossbow for archery season and am looking at different broadhead designs. Has anyone noticed a difference in performance between 3 or 4 blade broadheads, or small vs large blades? From my research so far, shot placement is king but the smaller blades allow for more penetration (as does 3 vs 4 blades or more weight). I think I am going to try a 1 1/8 three blade or a 1 3/16 four blade first to see if they shoot well.

I'll need to test for accuracy of course, just want to decide what to try first. I also know I need to match the total arrow weight with the broadhead weight to match the manufacturer's specifications. For me that will mean a 300gr shaft and a 100gr or 125gr broadhead.

Thanks!
Just food for thought, my state requires a minimum diameter of blades fully extended for archery.
 
I have Magnus Stinger 125gr w bleeders, G5 Striker 125s and Cutthroat right bevel 125s.

Run gold tips so use the weight system as needed.
 
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