Timney Trigger Unit

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Yamavira

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Mar 4, 2011
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Location
NE England. Co. Durham. Land of the Prince Bishops
Ludwig Loewe of Berlin. 1896 Mauser in 7x57.
Wanting to fit an after market trigger to this rifle. Looking at the Timney range of trigger units.
Would welcome advise on which Timney trigger unit, if any, can be dropped into the 1896 Mauser.
Looking on their website would appear that the Sportsman, Lightweight & Lightweight Deluxe can be fitted. However the deluxe appears to have an integral safety on the unit so not sure how this can fit.

Thanks
Yamavira.
 
Three of my five Mauser 98s are fitted with Timney triggers, all using models that lack the trigger-mounted safety -- a super easy upgrade. They preserve the external appearance of the rifles but some additional inletting of the original stocks was required to get them to fit properly. I believe the main difference between their Mauser trigger models has to do with fitting the geometry of the original triggerguard.

I've no experience with Timneys and the 96, but you should get some good advice here. If you still have questions, shoot Timney an email with your particulars. https://timneytriggers.com/contact-us/

BTW, Timney has been around longer than you might think. Here's an ad from the July 1956 issue of Guns magazine:

TimneyAdGuns756p57.jpg
 
I'm using a Sportsman w/safety on my custom t-99 ariska build.
The difference between the triggers I believe is weight of pull.
The sportsman is heavier at 2.5+, the featherweight goes down to 1.5.

The deluxe adds a side trigger blocking safety. If you don't want to fit a low safety to a scoped Mauser that would be a good option, and requires modifying the stock to fit the safety.
 
Minor point of correction. A Loews Mauser in 7x57 is a model 93 or 95. If yours is stamped 96, that is the year it was made. The M-96 Mausers were Swedes in 6.5x55, made by Mauser or In Sweden. They use the same trigger by the way.
I personally prefer the deluxe with side safety on a sporter.
 
If you have a Mauser in original military condition in its original stock, be aware that you will have to cut relief cuts for the trigger cartridge on it to fit. All Ludwig Loewe made rifles are also considered antiques which ups their price a bit. That will affect the value of it if the cuts are are external as the trigger blocking Timney requires. It is less obvious for the ones using the regular Mauser safety as the relief cuts are internal to the stock. On such trigger, that you may or may not be interested in are Huber Concepts triggers that require minor fitting that is not obvious from the outside. Just not as slick as the Timney one piece units.
 
Kp321. Thanks for your input. It probably is an 1895 model Mauser. The rifle was originally the cavalry carbine & not very tidy so I had a SS varmint barrel fitted & a Laminated T'hole stock. The military trigger has been honed & stoned. It is crisp,no creep, but feels heavy at 4.5 lbs. Hence my thoughts on a Timney trigger. Relieved they use the same trigger group as the model 98.
Not being a gun "stocksman" I am quite concerned at any suggestion that the stock may have to be altered in anyway. Timney repeatedly state their units are "drop in".
I would like to have a trigger pull of 2.0 to 2.5 lbs. Can all of the Timney units be reduced to that or as suggested above the Sportsman only comes down to 3 lbs.
I have already fitted a low safety so feel the "deluxe" is unnecessary. Timney triggers are expensive here in the UK so would be quite happy to settle on the "Sportsman" if it can be turned down to 2.0 lbs. If not then I guess it is raid the piggy bank for a "Featherweight" unit.
Thanks for the posts. Very helpful & appreciated.
Yamavira.
 
Kp321. Thanks for your input. It probably is an 1895 model Mauser. The rifle was originally the cavalry carbine & not very tidy so I had a SS varmint barrel fitted & a Laminated T'hole stock. The military trigger has been honed & stoned. It is crisp,no creep, but feels heavy at 4.5 lbs. Hence my thoughts on a Timney trigger. Relieved they use the same trigger group as the model 98.
Not being a gun "stocksman" I am quite concerned at any suggestion that the stock may have to be altered in anyway. Timney repeatedly state their units are "drop in".
I would like to have a trigger pull of 2.0 to 2.5 lbs. Can all of the Timney units be reduced to that or as suggested above the Sportsman only comes down to 3 lbs.
I have already fitted a low safety so feel the "deluxe" is unnecessary. Timney triggers are expensive here in the UK so would be quite happy to settle on the "Sportsman" if it can be turned down to 2.0 lbs. If not then I guess it is raid the piggy bank for a "Featherweight" unit.
Thanks for the posts. Very helpful & appreciated.
Yamavira.
Ill see how low I can get mine sometime tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it should hit 2lbs with little issue.
 
I used the non safety Featherweight on my ''94 Swede. It's lovely. Under 2 lbs and so clean.

"Drop-in" is a considerable exaggeration. I had to remove material from the sear slot and the trigger guard. And not an inconsiderable amount. With the non-safety version, there was no modification to the stock required.
 
I used the non safety Featherweight on my ''94 Swede. It's lovely. Under 2 lbs and so clean.

I have use Timney triggers on a Mauser before and I really like them. I looked at the Timney website and it looks like the featherweight version without a safety is their Featherweight number M95-6. Apparently the -6 stands for Model 96. Timney has good people that will talk to you on the telephone and I would suggest that you call them. Timney triggers may be more bulky and wider than the original triggers so on installing the trigger it is not unusual to have to remove some metal from the trigger slot in the trigger guard and also to remove some wood from the stock in front of the trigger. All it takes to make the adjustments is a small single cut file. If you work on the metal in the trigger slot just touch it up with a black sharpie. That has been my experience.
 
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Kp321. Thanks for your input. It probably is an 1895 model Mauser. The rifle was originally the cavalry carbine & not very tidy so I had a SS varmint barrel fitted & a Laminated T'hole stock. The military trigger has been honed & stoned. It is crisp,no creep, but feels heavy at 4.5 lbs. Hence my thoughts on a Timney trigger. Relieved they use the same trigger group as the model 98.
Not being a gun "stocksman" I am quite concerned at any suggestion that the stock may have to be altered in anyway. Timney repeatedly state their units are "drop in".
I would like to have a trigger pull of 2.0 to 2.5 lbs. Can all of the Timney units be reduced to that or as suggested above the Sportsman only comes down to 3 lbs.
I have already fitted a low safety so feel the "deluxe" is unnecessary. Timney triggers are expensive here in the UK so would be quite happy to settle on the "Sportsman" if it can be turned down to 2.0 lbs. If not then I guess it is raid the piggy bank for a "Featherweight" unit.
Thanks for the posts. Very helpful & appreciated.
Yamavira.
I have 3 Sportsman triggers. One stopped adjusting at 3 pounds. The other 2 adjusted lower. My preferred weight is 2lb 8oz, so I don't know how low it can go.
The wood removing was all done to the inside of the stock. I did one with wood hand chisels. The other 2 were done with a Dremel. I also had to file the slot in the trigger guard to fit the wider trigger blade.
 
I did not think that getting a new trigger unit would be so complicated.
UK dealers only carry the "very popular" units of which the Mauser units are not. So it is a special order & non returnable if I get it wrong. (They are also expensive in the UK. Starting point, before add- ons, is Pound for Dollar)
So from my previous posts.
I have a Ludwig Loewe of Berlin Mauser in 7x57 . It was originally a cavalry carbine. Stamped model 1896. However has been strongly suggested it is a model 95 (being in 7x57 & originally a carbine).
However I believe the trigger unit is the same in both the model 95 & 98 ( from the High Road members).
From the Timney products Lists.
Timney Mauser Featherweight. #201
Suitable for FM98FN & FM95-6. Other drop down shows compatible with German 98 & 98K.
Timney Mauser Sportsman. #101
Suitable for M98FN & M95-6. Other drop down shows compatibility with German 98 & 98K.

What are the differences between the 2 units (apart from colour & cost).
Will either fit the rifle ( hopefully with little or no fettling). If not which unit is the correct, best fit, unit.

Have been corresponding with Timney. They are very patient but do not appear to be looking at the complete picture. Merely answering my individual questions. Hence my asking the expertise which is The High Road membership for advice.

Your assistance much appreciated.
Regards
Yamavira.
 
I did not think that getting a new trigger unit would be so complicated.
UK dealers only carry the "very popular" units of which the Mauser units are not. So it is a special order & non returnable if I get it wrong. (They are also expensive in the UK. Starting point, before add- ons, is Pound for Dollar)
So from my previous posts.
I have a Ludwig Loewe of Berlin Mauser in 7x57 . It was originally a cavalry carbine. Stamped model 1896. However has been strongly suggested it is a model 95 (being in 7x57 & originally a carbine).
However I believe the trigger unit is the same in both the model 95 & 98 ( from the High Road members).
From the Timney products Lists.
Timney Mauser Featherweight. #201
Suitable for FM98FN & FM95-6. Other drop down shows compatible with German 98 & 98K.
Timney Mauser Sportsman. #101
Suitable for M98FN & M95-6. Other drop down shows compatibility with German 98 & 98K.

What are the differences between the 2 units (apart from colour & cost).
Will either fit the rifle ( hopefully with little or no fettling). If not which unit is the correct, best fit, unit.

Have been corresponding with Timney. They are very patient but do not appear to be looking at the complete picture. Merely answering my individual questions. Hence my asking the expertise which is The High Road membership for advice.

Your assistance much appreciated.
Regards
Yamavira.

Could you provide a few data: a side photo of the action removed from the rifle, with the dimension from the bottom of the receiver to the tip of the trigger; a downward photo of the top of the trigger guard, with the dimensions of the rectangular hole for the trigger; a top-down photo of the stock showing the trigger inletting area; and a side photo of the triggerguard, with the top-to-bottom dimension of the inside of the guard.

If you'll provide these, I'll dig out my Mausers and a dial caliper see which/whether any of the Timney units I have are dimensionally compatible for your rifle. That should answer your second question.
 
Hi
Mauser Trigger 1.JPG Mauser Triger inlet on Stock 1.jpg Mauser Trigger Inlet 2.jpg Mauser Trigger.jpg Mauser Trigger Guard.jpg
Measurements & pics you requested.
Bottom of receiver to tip of trigger 2.555"
Trigger slot 0.255" W x 0.680" L
Inside Trigger Guard 1.1625".
From the picture of the stock inlet & bedding in the trigger area you will note that the stock is a laminated af ter market stock & not the origi9nal carbine stock.

Many Thanks
For you assistance.
Regards
Yamavira.
 
Hi
View attachment 839064 View attachment 839065 View attachment 839066 View attachment 839067 View attachment 839068
Measurements & pics you requested.
Bottom of receiver to tip of trigger 2.555"
Trigger slot 0.255" W x 0.680" L
Inside Trigger Guard 1.1625".
From the picture of the stock inlet & bedding in the trigger area you will note that the stock is a laminated af ter market stock & not the origi9nal carbine stock.

Many Thanks
For you assistance.
Regards
Yamavira.


Based on comparison with my Model 95-6 Sportsman (the blue one -- this is the current factory designation) trigger, which is about five years old now, it looks do-able. You will need to modify both your stock and triggerguard for installation. My unit is slightly shorter than your original trigger (2.460"), so bottom drag inside the guard won't be an issue, but the trigger blade is almost exactly the same width as your trigger slot and the latter will almost certainly require widening with a file to prevent binding. Your trigger slot is also quite a bit shorter than mine -- that may require considerable filing or may not be an issue, depending on the geometry once installed. Unlike a military two-stage, Timney's don't require much takeup distance before breaking. Here's how the Timney's sit in the triggerguards of two different rifles:
MauserTimneyTG01.jpg
MauserTimneyTG02.jpg

The second blurry photo is a 20-year-old Timney Sportsman unit for a 98 Mauser, but you can see enough to tell that the slot length depends on which part of the trigger pokes through it.

Your stock will definitely require a little fore and aft wood removal to fit the squared profile of the Timney. That isn't a big deal and can be done in a few minutes with a Dremel tool and cutting burr. It also won't show from the outside if the tool slips a couple of times while you're at it. Here's the relieved stocks of two of my rifles with Timney triggers:

MauserRelievedforTimney01.jpg MauserRelievedforTimney02.jpg
 
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Timney Triggers.
What is the availability of Timney Triggers in the USA.??. Here in the UK it is almost impossible to get a Timney Trigger.
Dealers appear to be waiting for weeks for orders to be delivered. There appears to be no main importer into the UK.
Tried getting one sent directly to me but Timney do not post out of the USA. I find it incredible that a company which has such a good reputation for their products are so difficult to get hold of.
Very disappointed. Their customer service will answer any & all questions regarding their products but not at all helpful in actually obtaining the same.
 
Hi; I have a Timney Sportsman, IIRC, trigger that was on a Swedish Mod. 96 Mauser with a Ram Line plastic stock for over 20 years. Couple years ago the gun got put into a Bell & Carlson stock with an aluminum bedding block. It would have required removing a lot of material from the back part of the bedding block in order for that Timney trigger assembly to be used. I discovered that the Dayton Traister Co. had a model 96 Mauser unit that was a little more compact and would fit without removing too much aluminum so that was the route that was taken. Looks like those Dayton Traister units are getting hard to find or have been discontinued but Midway USA still lists Timneys for the Mod. 95 & 96 Mausers. Don't know if Midway can ship those to UK though. Don't even know if I could ship a used Timney to the UK because I'm ready to give this one away to a good home. Only modification was to grind a tiny bit of metal off the very bottom of the trigger because it slightly contacted the trigger guard when it was in the Ram Line stock. Touched it up with black paint to match the rest of the trigger and now it's almost un-noticable. It's been in my shop all these years and I'm now cleaning things out in my retirement. Still have the original packaging & instructions on the Timney and here it is... IMG_5619.JPG IMG_5621.JPG It's one of those SP - M95-6 models which I assume is the Sportsman trigger for the Mod. 95 & 96 Mausers. I could swear that I got the Sportsman trigger when I ordered this back around 1996. Can these things be privately shipped to the UK ? Without spending large amounts of money ?........ I gotta get my shop cleaned out. Also have a picture of the original Mod. 96 trigger here on the computer and here's that one: IMG_5624.JPG
 
The Timney Trigger unit saga continues. I am now very much aware that a Trigger unit (A GUN part) cannot be exported from the US without paying money for licences & paperwork. This means a $100 trigger unit in the USA will cost about $210 imported into the UK. Absolutely incredible.

So I am now looking at a Plan B as it were. Question to the Mauser owners of this forum. Can a Mauser military trigger be lightened from the present 4.5 lbs to a more reasonable 2 lbs & remain SAFE..

Would welcome comments & advice.

Regards
Yamavira.
 
3-4lbs is about as low as I've gone on a military trigger. You could perhaps go lower, but personally I'd take it to a good Smith to have that much taken off, especially if your trying to reduce pretravel at the same time.
 
Thank you for your reply and sound advice. I intended taking it to a smith but did not want to waste anyone's time asking them to do achieve something which cannot be achieved.
Lots more Mauser rifles in the US and many, like yourself, who have lots of experience "fettling" them.
Regards
Yamavira.

These are a few things that I have learned by restoring Mausers, sometimes from bare receivers including the model 95. Jerry Kunhausen's shop manual on Mausers is pretty useful in explaining the parts interactions and how to check individual parts of the differing models as well as making sure that they function together safely and reliably.

One of the issues with military issued Mauser triggers is that for a long time, these were plain carbon steel case hardened parts. This is especially true for the older small ring actions. They are also designed for functioning in the awful conditions found in wars with almost absolute reliability. Simplicity also ensured that armorers and raw troops in the field could clean and maintain them. Thus, the springs are too heavy, the trigger is a two stage to promote safety and range competence, the clearances are generous, and the sears on small ring Mausers also have a bolt safety interlock that prevents firing if the bolt is not completely in battery. All of this weighs on the trigger pull along with the safety system.

Peter Mauser designed these to work together as a system and simply altering one of the subsystem parts, such as the trigger, doesn't do the job. To do it right and safely, you need to address each part, the bolt sleeve, the bolt channel, the firing pin, the firing pin spring, the cocking piece, the safety, the sear, the trigger, the receiver bottom where the trigger uses it as a lever, the sear spring, the sear and trigger pins. Each piece should be polished without penetrating the case hardening layer, the sear spring should be adjusted and polished, the firing pin channel polished, the firing pin itself polished, the trigger/sear pins polished and trigger/sear pin holes cleaned and lubed without enlarging them, and so on. For an ideal trigger, you want the smoothest possible interface between parts as possible while being safe. However, this does take time and labor which is where it can get expensive. To some degree a moly coating or keeping the working surfaces lubricated can help. Moly coatings such as SentryCote can smooth out a trigger and working surfaces until it wears off, oil lube evaporates pretty quickly on the sort of oils that can be used on a trigger and grease is off the table as an attractant for crud.

It is complicated even more by the fact that most military small ring action parts, with the possible exception of the Swedes for some parts, are nearly all used, some well used. Burrs, rust, pitting, and so on, make it more of a challenge to properly fit the parts. That is one of the reasons that a lot of folks do not like parts rifles as in the factory, a skilled person using bins of parts could select and fit those with the best working relationship and the minimum of fitting. There is a reason that Mausers stamped identifiers on parts to indicate being fitted to a particular rifle.

Outside of that, the action is simple enough that people could simply change parts to get function but without fitting which gives an inferior experience to an original fitted rifle. Over time, hasty repairs, budget issues dealing with obsolete war reserve, etc. and then the uncertain murky world of milsurp sales and middlemen, resulted in a lot of surplus rifles becoming known for the surplus but not so much the fine examples of craftsmanship that many of these rifles, apart from wartime production, exhibited coming off of the assembly line.

Putting in a Timney unit solves some of the issues regarding trigger and sear, and perhaps if you go with their trigger locking safety unit instead of the simpler one, you can also scratch off the safety subsystem as well. But, you will still need to address cocking piece, the bolt channel, the firing pin and spring, etc. At one time, aftermarket solutions existed for many of these but as the number of these still in action has faded and regulatory issues have become so embedded into the firearm industry, the aftermarket parts mfg and sale for these old mausers is drying up.

At least in the UK, you do have proofing which helps weed out the unsafe dogs which tend to wind up here in the U.S.
 
Thank you for your reply and sound advice. I intended taking it to a smith but did not want to waste anyone's time asking them to do achieve something which cannot be achieved.
Lots more Mauser rifles in the US and many, like yourself, who have lots of experience "fettling" them.
Regards
Yamavira.

Bummer dude!

FWIW, I kept the original military-style 2-stager on two of my five 98s because those had predictable let-offs that I didn't think any commercial trigger would really improve. After a decade of Glocks, I've made peace with trigger take-up.

One of my Mausers with the original trigger is a Wehrmann target rifle in 8.15x46R that I wanted to keep authentic to original 1920s-30s competition rules, which prohibit changes to the milspec trigger and sights. That rifle was a veteran bring back with a duffel cut and a seriously nice original trigger. I suspect the mainspring had been shortened and the cocking piece and sear surfaces polished, but their respective profiles don't appear visually different from milspec. I can only guess at what they did, but even with the crap Lange Visier notch sight this trigger has helped produce some pretty nice indoor 5-shot groups at 22 yards:

5Shot22YardWehrmann.jpg WehrmannsGewehr02.jpg
 
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