To Trim or not to trim 38 Special

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gifbohane

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I am just getting into loading 38 Spec. Should I trim to an OAL My initial information says "do not trim."

Thoughts from the members here?
 
I am using all range brass, so the lengths were quite varied, and I like nice consistent crimps, so I trim all sized .38 Spl cases to 1.140, even though I don't reload a lot of .38 Spl with roll crimps, which are more critical than taper crimps.

I am in the minority when it comes to trimming/not trimming .38 Spl cases. :)
 
Unless your recipe requires either:
1) sub-MOA accuracy, or
2) extra-heavy crimps for maximum consistency with H110

then no. I trim some .357 for 2), but no 38 Spl.

Edit: I do sort by Headstamp. . . much faster!
 
I bought a trimmer for 44mag one time. Nothing was long enough to trim. I mean I guess you could try, but I think you're going to go to a lot of effort for no benefit.
 
My first .38 Special reloading log entry is dated Oct 1976. I have never trimmed a pistol or revolver cartridge, don't plan to start. But, as the saying goes.......... Whatever floats your boat, cranks your tractor, spins your wheels, etc.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
If I were you, I'd sort your cases by length and then adjust your seating.crimping die so the bullet crimp is the same. and in the same crimping groove
 
I've got about 12,000 .38 Special cases, and none of them are going to get trimmed. I just finished up loading another 5,000 .38 Special, and none of those were trimmed, either.

Like others, I've been loading since 1963, and I've yet to trim a straight handgun case, and probably never will. Even back when I was shooting on the department pistol team in PPC matches, we didn't trim our brass, and we were shooting at 50 yards.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I trim everything at least once. This gives me a uniform starting place. I love keeping my hands busy though.
A shoe box for shavings and a Lee trimmer helps me get through a TV show with the wife.
 
Generally, I do not trim handgun cases regardless what they are. But...

When I load full power magnum loads, which is rare these days, I do prefer trimmed cases so that the roll crimp is uniform from round to round.

Shortly after Christmas, I started working on a 38 Special wadcuttter M1911. The loads will need a roll crimp over the end of the bullets which will require a uniform case length for a uniform roll crimp.
 
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I find 38 spl range pick up brass will vary in length from 1.143-1.155" with in the same head stamp and some are way out of square. I roll crimp to a groove so yes I trim to 1.145" and the crimps are consistent.
My guess is the ammo makers are using a crimp that does not require a consistent case length.
All of my acp brass that head spaces off the case mouth is pretty dang close, so I don't need to trim it.
 
I am using all range brass, so the lengths were quite varied, and I like nice consistent crimps, so I trim all sized .38 Spl cases to 1.140, even though I don't reload a lot of .38 Spl with roll crimps, which are more critical than taper crimps.
All mine is Winchester Super Match mid-range Wadcutter factory ammo that was once fired when I shot it in my PPC revolver. When I started in revolver competition again, I measured them to get an idea of varience for crimping. There was enough variance in this same headstamped, same lot ammo to convince me to trim them to a uniform length for a uniform roll crimp.

I had several thousand cases so I only trim as many as I use up each year...800-1200 cases
 
If the case length is varied how do you seat to the cannelure / crimping groove?

Since over half of the 8,000 to 10,000 rounds of .38 Specials I load for my wife and me each year will be fired through lever action rifles, I load for the OAL of 1.480". With cast bullets, it doesn't matter where the crimp groove is, since you just roll the crimp into the side of the bullet where it needs to be, as long as it doesn't end up in the lube groove. I've been doing it this way for well over half a century, and it works for me.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Since over half of the 8,000 to 10,000 rounds of .38 Specials I load for my wife and me each year will be fired through lever action rifles, I load for the OAL of 1.480". With cast bullets, it doesn't matter where the crimp groove is, since you just roll the crimp into the side of the bullet where it needs to be, as long as it doesn't end up in the lube groove. I've been doing it this way for well over half a century, and it works for me.

Hope this helps.

Fred
But if the case is at a minimum length isnt there a chance you miss the case all together? Or longer than expected and buckle the case? Thats what im not understanding.
 
When I was using the 4-stage process with a separate crimping step, I never trimmed. Now that I am using a 3-stage process (seat and crimp in same stage), I do trim. But the reality is, I'm not sure it makes a lot of difference.
 
I trim 38 special and 357 cases because I am using a roll crimp and want the consistency. The trimming process is tedious but I tell myself that I will only have to do it once for the life of the case.
 
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