Triple 7 in 45 Colt cartridge?

[HogRider]

Bought a pound of 777 (3F equivalent) and wanted to load it in 45 Colt. Just as I started I noticed in red print on the label "Do not use in metallic cartridges". Oops!

Went to Hodgdon's website and there seems to be some data for the 2F for 45 Colt, but couldn't find anything for 3F. Is that stuff so powerful that it could blow up a Ruger Vaquero ?

Does someone have any experience with 777 in cartridges?

 

[P95Carry]

"Do not use in metallic cartridges".

Mine just says that but without ''metallic'' ..... minor point tho! I cannot actually see why ..... and no reason is given that I have found.

Seeing as this is used much like ''Cleanshot'' and ''Pyrodex'' .... as a volume equivalent to BP I really cannot see what pressure issues might be involved.

If I was experimenting and with a tough gun, I would feel inclined to try working up some loads ... starting well below max of course.

Equally I would call Hodgdon and ask .. why??? I'd sure like to know, tho I don't reload cartridges with any BP or equivalents.

 

[Josey]

My understanding is that it is extremely corrosive. Your brass would only be good once. It would eat the brass up, the cartridge walls would be too thin to use again. The brass may rupture and there would be fouling and residue in the cylinder that could cause sticky extraction. The brass when it ruptured could melt/weld itself to the cylinder. That was the information I was given. I would not try it.

 

[P95Carry]

Thx Josey ... that does make sense ..... however ... what is in that stuff that could make it SO corrosive I wonder ... makes me wonder whether I'll put it thru any of my front stuffers! Might as well stick to BP!

Plus ... thinking ..... it must be way more aggressive than straight BP then .. because IIRC BP reloaders use the brass more than once ... just washing and cleaning beteen reloads.

 

[Josey]

Many BP cartridge users drop their brass in a jug with either Ballistol and water, moosemilk or plain soap and water. There are custom mixtures also. The simple use of cheap windshield cleaner and a spray bottle will clean most corrosive residue quickly in the field. I use a spray bottle and a rag. I wondered about compression of Triple 7 also. I don't have any idea about the use of Magnum primers and compressed Triple 7 in a metallic cartridge. Anybody got a "extra" BP pistol and a Ransom rest? LOL

 

[Josey]

My custom mix is a gallon jug filled with equal parts of Murphys' oil soap, hydrogen peroxide and water. It works well. I usually only run water over the brass, decap, allow to dry and reload.

 

[Smoke Rizen]

Triple 7 in .45 L.C.

I have to own up to being the test case. I loaded 50 .45 W/30grs. Wt. of FFFG poured from the measure,no drop tube, for cowboy shooting. I used my regular .060 wad W/ a 250gr. RNFP lead bullet. This compressed the powder about 1/8". I only use Magnum primers in all my B.P. loads. Well, then I read the label, as my wife say's, last thing I always do. I shot the first few rounds out of a 94 Winchester, no problem, I shot the rest at a cowboy shoot next weekend out of my Vaquero's,no problem. I'm not loading any more of them but I am very pleased W/the clean-up of the cases,and the guns. I am very surprized to hear it is corrosive. It cleaned up W/plain soap and water. The cases ,after washing were as shiny as they were when they came out of the tumbler. I don't recommend shooting the 777 against Hodgdons guidelines, but I have a hundred .45's loaded W/a 1/2+1/2 mixture, FFFG-FFG that I'll shoot this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. S.R.

 

[Smoke Rizen]

Triple 7 in .45 L.C.

I have been using it in my .45 Vaquero's and a Mod. 94 Winchester with no problems. I (as usual) read the label after loading 50 rounds, so I shot them. I used them at a CAS shoot and experienced no adverse effects. I don't think it's corrosive at all. I have always shot Black and used a mix of 1 part Windex with ammonia to 1 part water to prep cases after shooting. They turn brown,I tumble and reload. With the Tri. 7 I just wash them and they shine like out of the tumbler! I am shooting a load this weekend of 30gr. of 1/2 FFFG and 1/2 FFG mixed pushing a 250gr, RNFP lead. I'll let you know how it does. I don't recommend going against Hodgdons guidelines, but I haven't experienced any negative effects. S.R.

 

[Redhawk1]

I read this on the Hodgdon web site. http://www.hodgdon.com/tripleseven/tripleseven-faq.php#corrosive

Cartridges: Use data specifically developed for Triple Seven FFG only. Cartridge loads should be used exactly as listed in this brochure. You may safely use a card or polyethylene wad up to .030" in thickness to protect the base of the bullet. Loading density should be 100% with light compression not to exceed .100". Testing has shown that Triple Seven will perform best when the bullet just touches the powder. Allow no airspace between the base of the bullet and the powder. Do NOT reduce loads by means of filler wads of inert filler material such as Grits, Dacron or Grex. Do not heavily compress powder charges. The use of filler wads, inert fillers or heavy compression may cause a dangerous situation which could cause injury and/or death to the shooter, bystanders or damage property. Do not create loads for cartridges not listed. Contact Hodgdon Powder Company for recommendations concerning other loads. *See WARNING below

 

[Josey]

Checked around. Consensus is don't. Cracked cases in nickel cases, bulges and pressure increases causing sticky extraction. Brass cases bulged and burned through. I get a sense that Triple 7 is not meant to be loaded in cartridges.

 

[Smoke Rizen]

Trip. 7

I get the feeling the label was written by a lawyer. Did you receive any info. on loading T-7 in front loaders? Do they recommend compressing or not in a Muzzle loader. I was always taught a loose load in a front loader equates to a pipe bomb. I shot up a bunch Sat. but I'm going to need a bunch more info. from Hodgdon before I buy 10 lbs. next week. As I stated before I don't believe it to be corrosive, I've shot a variety of corrosive powders, Goex,Elephant, Pyrodex,etc. I shot some "Cleanshot" non corrosive,made here in Clearwater Co. and had good luck with it. It left a lot more residue than the T-7 does, but was a non corossive residue. They may not be making it anymore, as I haven't seen any around. I hope I can get more info. to continue loading the T-7.As so far I have been very pleased with it and have not experienced any signs of excessive pressure . I'll let you know if I have any bad experiences. S.R.

 

[Gewehr98]

I thought that was the selling point of Triple 7?

Namely, the fact that it was not corrosive, since it doesn't have the sulphur component of black powder. Learn something new every day, I guess. I came really close to buying a pound for my .45-70 BP loads.

From their website, the FAQ that says the stuff is not corrosive:

http://www.hodgdon.com/tripleseven/tripleseven-faq.php

(Note what it says about cartridge use)

 

[Gatofeo]

You know, the more I read about 777 the more I want to steer clear of it.
Compared to black powder, it's more expensive, harder to find (in the Salt Lake City area that is), prone to produce higher pressures, quirkier to work with and just as corrosive.
I'll stick to black powder, thank you.
I don't hunt with my black powder revolvers, or need high pressures and velocities to penetrate car doors or barricades. Never met a tin can or paper target that resisted a black powder load.

 

[stevelyn]

I've been using Triple-7 in my .54 Lyman GPR exclusively and have had excellent results with it. As with blackpowder, you DO have to seat the ball on the charge eliminating any airspace. T-7 seems to have a little more energy and velocity as advertised without pressure spikes. It smokes and burns like BP without the odor of BP or Pyrodex. Burning it in the open it kinda flares and hisses like smokeless rather than the explosive flash and Whoof that BP has in the open. The smoke has almost a neutral non-odor to it. It is absolutely non-corrosive (my main reason for choosing it) and it truly does clean up with water. Firing residue seems to be no heavier and no different than residue left behind from some of the dirtier burning smokeless powders. Before cleaning, I noticed the flashhole and powder channel were clear and did not have any residue build up from the burned powder.
My concern before using it was reliable ignition. Those concerns were unfounded. T-7 lights up reliably (everytime) with standard #11 percussion caps (although I've switched to magnums and Red Hot nipples due to the nasty Aleutian climate). All my misfires were attributed to cap residue blocking the nipple.

 

[TaxPhd]

Take a trip over to the SASS Wire and look for some posts by a fella called Strawberry Lars. He is a fountain of info. on loading the black substitutes in cartridges.



Scott

 

[Josey]

I know him! He is a knowledgble fellow. Constable Nelson from Australia is also.