Trouble seating/ crimping LRN .45s for 1911

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Jason977

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I've just started reloading 45s for my new 1911, and I can't seem to get them to chamber correctly. I am using 230grn LRN from a local source, http://www.friendswoodbullet.com/45ACP_230grain_RN/p132676_306866.aspx. I am seating and crimping simultaneously with the RCBS die, and i suspect this is my problem.

To adjust: I first back out the die to seat only, and set the OAL to where the ridge in the bullet is flush with the case mouth. The bullet needs to be seated this deep to clear the slide stop. I then back out the seating plunger, and adjust the crimp die to the least amount of crimp that will chamber in my barrel (using Walkalong's guide) properly, which winds up right at the 0.473 spec. Finally, I can re-adjust the seating plunger to where it stops on my now seated and crimped bullet. That's great for this one cartridge, but the next bullet I seat gets shaved by the case which results in a ring of lead pushed up in front of the case mouth, and the cartridge then essentially headspaces on this ring, such that the rim stands proud of the barrel. :banghead:

I believe my case mouth is properly belled. No shaving when I seat before I crimp.
When I've shot the few rounds I've made, all feed properly, but the gun will not go fully into battery on 1/10 rounds.
Factory ammo works perfectly.

My only past experience reloading is with 9mm, and I didn't have any problem setting up the seat/crimp die with lead. I suspect that separate seating/ crimping stations will solve my problems, but that would necessitate another die and PTX, and I'd like to at least get the production rolling with the supplies that I have.
 
I understand this is why a lot of folks do separate seat and crimp steps, as you mentioned.

There are two operations that are fighting each other. That is, the crimp is going to try to stop the seating movement. Or cause lead shaving if the seater is still moving during the crimp.

You may have to "fiddle" with the two adjustments. I'd suggest backing the crimp out as it sounds like this is doing more than removing the bell.

Remember, .45ACP headspaces on the case mouth, so the mouth should look almost square. No visible roll crimp.

Somewhere in the middle of this sticky are some pictures of .45ACP with taper crimps. Admittedly these are harder to do with a combination crimp/seat die, but it gives you something to use as a guide -

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=469815
 
What brand of die? Common problem, the inside of the die is to small in diameter in front of the crimper. The bell is being removed/closed to soon. Open the die up. Or taper crimp in a separate operation.
which winds up right at the 0.473 spec.
More crimp is needed IMO.
 
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Run all your cartridges through a factory crimp die after you seat/crimp. It adds a 4th stage to the loading process, but it's worth it. I have had the same issues with one of my tight chambered 1911's. Mine would stop at about 1/8" from full lock-up/battery. I could firmly tap the back of the slide and it would chamber. The factory crimp die took care of the problem.
 
...but the next bullet I seat gets shaved by the case which results in a ring of lead pushed up in front of the case mouth, and the cartridge then essentially headspaces on this ring.

From this I'm guessing that further adjusting the case diameter isn't going to solve the problem, (even if you sprinkle Lee FCD pixie dust on it... :) )
 
You are crimping too much

I had a similar problem with my .380s. I was using FMJ, so instead of shaving lead I was wrinkling case walls. I finally got a head puller and pulled some heads. I was AMAZED at how much crimp I had going on. I thought I had dialed in minimal crimp, but I was wrong.

I use RCBS dies like you and seat crimp in one operation. Pull some heads and you might be surprised.

ThumperACC
 
Yep. Just enough to remove the bell, or a hair more.

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As you have been doing >First, back out the die to seat only, and set the OAL to where you want the bullet. Then back out the seating plunger, and adjust the crimp die. Nowwith the loaded round in the raised ram/shell holder, screw the crimp die down by hand, this will let you feel how much you are crimping. Make it tight. If this round will not chamber, you need a tiny bit more crimp applyed.:)
 
Make sure these lead bullets you bought are not oversize. I bought some lead 45 auto bullets a while back that were + .001 to .003 oversize. Bought a Lee bullet re sizer that brought them to .452 which was what my chamber required. Talking about projectile size not brass size.

Also check that your cartridge over all length is not excessive and you are not not trying to push excess lead into the rifling of your barrel upon chambering.
 
Those Friendswood 230 RNL bullets are very nice. I have recently made up a large run with them and they shoot great. I use an OAL of 1.238" with mixed brass, Winchester large primers and a charge of 5.1 grs. Unique. I use an RCBS 3-die set with a taper crimp/seater die all in one operation. No problems. Suggest you go back to the beginning and follow your die set's instructions to the letter.
 
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