Tuner, I want to build a 1911 for my kid...

[Catshooter]

and I want to set it up like the original 1911s were, i.e., you can use the pistol itself for it's own take down tool.

Can you run through the sequence and actions of which part takes down what for me? I tried serch, no help. I see most of it, including the toe of the mag as a screwdriver for the grip screws, but what the heck takes out the firing pin? A grip screw?

My son is in the Air Force, is 27 and has finally gotten his stuff together as a man and since for the first time in years I can at last say I'm proud of him, I'm ready to build him a good 1911.

I've got a Springer 1911A1, box stock that was my fathers. I've gone through it and I can't see any MIM or cast parts. It's proably ten (?) years old. It does have the two-piece barrel which I intend to replace.

Any advise for me? It'll be his 'one' gun, if he ever gets any more I'd be surprised so I want it to be the general all-purpose pistol that a good 1911 can be.

Thanks for your help. (I waited a couple of weeks past your moving, 'cause I know how easy and stress-free that is!!!


Cat

 

[Old Fuff]

Tuner will be back, but right now he's in the middle of moving to a new house.

To remove the firing pin, first remove the safety lock (AKA "manual safety"). With the hammer fully forward use the shaft on the safety lock to push out the mainspring housing pin (one end of the pin shpuld be cupped). Then remove the mainspring housing and sear/trigger spring. At this point you can drop out the grip safety. Use the shaft on the safety lock to push out the hammer pin and remove the hammer assembly. Then use the hammer strut to push in the firing pin, drop the firing pin stop, and remove the firing pin and spring. The firing pin is under tension so be careful it doesn't get away from you! Then use the hammer strut to pry out and remove the extractor.

The firing pin can be used to push out the sear pin, after which you can remove the sear and disconector.

Use the tit on the left leg of the sear spring to turn the magazine latch lock. Remember this is a keyed lock, not a screw. Remove the latch and you can drop out the trigger.

 

[Catshooter]

Old Fuff,

Thank you very much!!

That is the data I lacked. I knew I had seen that written here before, couldn't recall who wrote it and now I bet it was you.

Tuner is still moving!?! You know, if'n he'd break loose of about 40 or 50 1911s and 90 or 100,000 rounds of GI hardball I bet he be done by now!

The poor guy. I'm moving when I retire in about three years, and I'm dreading it.

Oh yea, OF do you recall the proper radius to machine the grip screw slot to? I'll have to get a key way cutter.

Cat

 

[Old Fuff]

Part of Tuners many problems in moving is that he has to get set up with a new Internet provider, and he may be waiting to get a broadband system installed.

If I understand correctly, you want the grip screws slotted to fit the front of the magazine floorplate. I'll see if I can't find that for you.

 

[Catshooter]

That's right Old Fuff, I want to make the grip screw slots the right size and shape for the toe of the mag.

Thanks.


Cat

 

[Old Fuff]

Cat:

According to my USGI drawing the magazine baseplate is .485" -.004" wide. The radius at the front is 1/2 that, or a nominal .242". The plate thickness is .079" - .005". I'd think that a .500" cutter should be close enough. The slot in the screw was cut 5/64" (max) deep from the crown of the screw.

Be aware though, that many aftermarket magazines don't come close to USGI specifications.