Weapon light position question

[tcoz]

I've noted that some people mount their AR weapon light so far forward that it's almost even with the front of the flash hider. I'm aware that the farther forward its mounted, the less of a problem that shadows will be but I'm just surprised that the flash wouldn't damage a light over time, even the most expensive ones. As a result, I have mine mounted just rear of the hider.

So, is it not the problem that I imagine it to be?

 

[OpticsPlanet]

I suppose it would depend on the design of the flash hider - my standard flash hiders have no slots on the bottom, so nothing is directed straight down, but I heep my Inforce WML mounted farther back. I do prefer the light mounted on the bottom, though, at least any shadow is balanced on both sides. One AR has a TLR-1 mounted high (10:00), and I prefer the bottom position.

Mark H.

 

[herrwalther]

I never really understood it either. My weapon light on my duty AR was mounted on the bottom rail just behind the front sight. This created a shadow above the rifle, which didn't bother me because my focus was forward and below shoulder height.

 

[Skribs]

My light on my HD Supernova is actually mounted in the side saddle. Yeah it casts a shadow, but its easy to reach and its more light than if I didn't have one.

 

[Crowcifier666]

My TLR-3 gets carbon buildup on the lens when shooting my 9mm pistol. It sits about an inch forward of the muzzle. I can see it being worse and more of it with a rifle shooting a higher powered round. But I don't see it causing much damage to the light...are you referring to heat damage? Maybe with a full auto rifle, but it's plenty exposed to air to cool between shots....

 

[tcoz]

It's basically damage from heat that I'm referring to, especially if it's right alongside an A2 flash hider during rapid firing. The concussive force would be pretty great there too, but the better lights should be built to take that.

I have an Inforce WML set in momentary so when I position it where my thumb naturally falls to operate the pressure switch, it's well back of the muzzle. If my barrel/handguard combination was such that it would've placed the light right alongside the muzzle, I would've probably gone with a different light setup.

 

[1911 guy]

I simply mount mine where it is easiest to manipulate when i need it. That does happen to be behind the muzzle of my 14.5" carbine, but if i adopted the extreme forward off hand grip in vogue today (it does have advantages) I wouldn't hesitate to move the light forward a bit. I, like Skribs, don't mind a bit of shadow. I'm more concerned with mounting it where it would further obscure my peripheral vision. Besides, most decent quality lights are focused enough that shadowing is minimal.

 

[MrCleanOK]

Muzzle blast is not capable of generating enough heat to damage a light. Most lights generate far more heat just by running than they would ever be subjected to by muzzle blast. Heck, the incandescent Surefires can get hot enough to light paper on fire.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Most lights generate far more heat just by running than they would ever be subjected to by muzzle blast. Heck, the incandescent Surefires can get hot enough to light paper on fire.

Old ones, maybe (although I don't recall my Xenon Surefire getting that hot). I don't think you can even buy a non-LED WML these days.

And FWIW, the heat at the muzzle upon bullet exit is much, much hotter than any light bulb. It's just an extremely short duration. Heat needs time to work; if you run a 5,000*+ oxy-acetylene cutting torch across your skin fast enough, it'll barely singe the hairs.

 

[herrwalther]

In addition to add to my earlier post. I don't mount my lights too far forward for fear of light damage. If you buy a dedicated weapon light from a reputable manufacture, you probably aren't going to damage a light with the recoil or heat from the round. I would be willing to guess that arm length, carry style, and comfort are bigger considerations than weapon light.

For example when I first setup my issued AR, I placed the weapon light on the right rail as far forward as it would go. It came with a pressure switch which I put on the outside edge of the magazine well, so I could activate the light with my trigger finger on my shooting hand. That was comfortable. When the pressure switch broke, I moved it to the bottom rail just forward of a vertical grip. From there I could turn on the light by merely flexing my support hand to push the button tailcap. And that turned out better.

 

[OpticsPlanet]

MrCleanOK said
Most lights generate far more heat just by running than they would ever be subjected to by muzzle blast. Heck, the incandescent Surefires can get hot enough to light paper on fire.

I'm in agreement with that. had a Surefire 6P in my luggage in the trunk of my car, smelled something getting warm. Passenger compartment started to fill with smoke, puled over, popped the hood and - nothing.

Opened the trunk and my 6P had turned on and melted my ballistic nylon luggage, to the point that the melted nylon was smouldering.

The closer to the muzzle a light is mounted, residue will be more of an issue. I've had guide-rod lasers become virtually unusable after a magazine with dirty ammo, and require a lens cleaning with a q-tip and alcohol to restore a well-defined dot.

In shooting a rifle with a light, I like the light on the bottom, where the beam is centered left to right. I think the natural tendency would be to center a threat in the light - obviously that can be dealt with through training.

Good thread, OP!

Mark H.