What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

[TBJK]

I made my LED setup for my loadmaster with a 3/4" aluminum rod sliced to make a heat sink for it. If the heatsink wasn't there it would rapidly get to 180* plus. I then tied that into my home made case feeder power supply.

 

[Steve Cover]

Wrong Venue again.
I've got to learn how to use these computers.... Sorry

Steve

 

[Steve Cover]

There's actually 2 things here. One is pretty obvious - I used to use my small bench top model drill press to uniform primer pockets and also chamfer the inside and outside of rifle brass. I found a better way to do it was to just pull the power head off the press and flip it upside down on my bench. It makes it easier to see what you're doing, it's a more comfortable motion for doing a lot of brass, and it's really easy to do (just two little set screws hold the tool on the press). I also put 4 little rubber feet on the top of the press's lid so it stays in place. It's really quiet, powerful, etc.

The second thing that works really well, is a brass trap I made for this setup. Using the drill press for any of the brass processing usually made a mess with little brass shavings all over the place. I made this little "trap" out of an empty 1# powder bottle. I cut both the very top and the very bottom off the bottle and taped them together with the top inverted. Then I drilled a hole in the center of the bottom for the cutting tool to go through. When I chuck the tool up in the drill, the plastic is trapped between the cutting tool and the chuck, and so it spins. When I do any kind of operation, the brass falls down into the trap, and the spinning action throws it to the outside walls of the container. It does a great job of catching all little brass shavings and any carbon residue that gets removed.

Very Clever.
I've got to give this a try
Thanks for the idea.

Steve

 

[Steve Cover]

Use a ear foamy

+1

(Re pad for inside of a kinetic bullet hammer to protect soft points.)

Steve

 

[Steve Cover]

Also, not sure if this has been posted.

Old used/non-working chest/stand-up deep freezer works well as a "good safe" in the garage (you can often find these for "free" in the classified/craigslist). They are well insulated and fairly sturdy for the intended purpose of "safe keeping" of reloading stuff (I install two heavy clasps and pad locks on the door).

If anyone breaks into my garage, they'll find the deep freezer next to the washer/dryer and probably suspect frozen food to be inside, not reloading stuff. If they try to move the deep freezer, it is anchored to the wall studs.

Of course, if the freezer is working, DON"T turn it on (mine is not plugged in, but you can't see that where it is at).

I also use an old freezer to store some of my reloading components.

To increase safety and efficiency, I made a couple of modifications:

1. Mostly to save weight, I removed the coolant pump and fully drained the system.
(Running compressed air in one end of the cut tube made short work of the liquid still trapped in odd places.)

2. I fully grounded the freezer. (I don't need a static spark in here)

3. There are a series of one inch holes drilled into the bottom to release pressure in the case of a house fire that is bad enough to cause any stored powder to ignite.
(Instead of an explosion when the door latch finally gives into increasing pressure, my freezer will likely become a floor mounted blow torch for a couple of seconds.)
Since heat rises, drilling the gas escape holes near the center of the floor should shield the contents from excessive heat for a reasonable time.

3.1 (Added 06/10) ... Just occurred to me that raising the freezer enough to allow 2x4s to be laid down around the bottom would act as insulation.
In the case that my couple of pounds of powder would ignite, the pressure would push the 2x4s out of the way to allow safe venting.
I'm doing this today.

4. Freezer shelves are designed to carry a reasonable amount of weight. But, I reinforced the mountings with shelving brackets anyway.

5. Naturally a hasp and padlock secure the door. (I placed the freezer against a sidewall so the lock is not overly observable)

There is a lot of unused space in the freezer so it also stores items I don't want to walk away in the case of a break in.

The freezer provides camouflaged, well insulated storage. I like it.

Steve

 

[DRAINSMITH]

I use my broken refrigerator a little different.It has 7 levels to put racks, so I built 7 racks out of 2X2 angle iron and fiber mesh that slip in and out. After I wet tumble my brass I can put aprox. 400 on each rack. I rewired the switch that turns the light off so it will stay on when the door is closed. This heats the inside of the reffer. up to about 120 and removes all humidity. I leave it on over night and the brass is completely dry. In the freezer part I can store 48 lbs. of power. I use a 5w bulb.

 

[HEAVY METAL 1]

I replaced the wing nut on my vibratory tumbler with a round of oak which was the center plug of wood from a cut I did on another project using my hole saw. I then put a threaded T nut in the center. I can spin that down or up in a flash. To accompany that I glued one of the super magnets that reside inside a Sonicare toothbrush head onto the topside of the lid and the spin knob can rest there and not get dropped and roll away.

 

[james layman]

Made 45ACP blanks for Memorial Day celebration. Prep cases per RCBS shotshell dies. Place 10grs of bullseye powder. Followed by 410 shot protector. Seat protector & trim even with case mouth. Roll soft toilet paper & cram into case. Leave about 1/8 inch sticking out. Cut excess off with scissors. Crimp with final die. Gives good report(bang). Must be worked through action manually. Have fun. Jim

 

[DRAINSMITH]

I have noticed that on this form many are having problems priming system on the Hornady AP. I always tell folks to watch Highboys U Tube videos. He has a vast knowledge of this press, the only problem I have is Highboy has the eyesight of a chicken hawk, and I have the eyesight of the chicken.
Now in order to get 100% priming it requires a two step process. The first step is to insure the primer slide receives a primer every time. The small primer is 0.175"in diameter.
The first thing I did was find a brass rod that is exactly 0.175" in diameter. I then loosened the screw for the Lock and load AP bracket for the break away cam wire. The with the small primer tube and the small primer slid in place I pulled the handle all the way down to raise the sub plat to the top. I then put the brass rod in until it hit the slide. Then I pulled the plastic cam rod holder out until the rod dropped. I then tightened the screw down. I then filled with primers. I slowly cycled the press and it feed a primer every time. Now when I speed up the cycling of the press to loading speed, I missed 1 in 10 primers. So now I went back to Highboys videos and found he recommended that the slide should go just past center. So now I took the brass rod and put it into my dill press , slid the small primer tube on and used a jewelers file to remove 0.010" of the end of the rod for about 1/2" making the end 0.165". I then put the rod back down the primer tube and readjusted the break away bracket.This moved the slide an additional 0.005". I once again cycled the press slowly and 10 out of 10 primers feed perfectly, I speed it up to loading speed and got 25 out of 25 primers to feed perfectly. I then ran the press faster than I would ever load for the rest of the 65 primers with no problem. I have reloaded aprox. 70k rounds with out a single missed primer in the slide.
Now the second part of priming is the setting of the primer into the primer pocket of the brass. Once again I have the eyes of the chicken, so I built a timing kit.

This kit is comprised of a #16 shell plate that I have knocked the detent balls in to just touch the sub plate of the press, a .223 brass that I trimmed down just past the shoulder , a 380 brass that I took a Dremmel and cut half away and drilled out the primer pocket one drill bit larger than the primer, a extra .45 bullet setter , a tub of play-do and an allen wrench. Now put the 380 brass in and rotate it to the primer. When you push the primer in it should not touch the brass, if it dose you need to adjust the pawl for the primer.

It is the pawl on the left. If you need the shell to go clock wise, turn the pawl screw counter clock wise. Adjust until the primer doesn't touch the brass.
Now that you have your timing kit out you might as well adjust the pawl for the dies. to do this fill the bullet setter die with the play-do and smooth off, put the .223 brass in the shell plate and with the die installed in the press raise the brass up until it just touches the play-do. The impressions will show you if you need to adjust the right pawl to get it perfectly centered.

 

[egd]

Very good ideas DRAINSMITH. I just did like the Hiboy video and looked in to see the adjustment. Of course I do have to use the "reader" type glasses and FYI, they will increase magnification if you wear two pair at a time for REALLY seeing something. I guess I got lucky with my just past center setting and my primers, all feed just fine.
I haven't tried to really fine tune the die alignment yet as they all seem to work fine. But I do plan on checking it and will use your idea for that.

 

[Steve Cover]

I finally finished reading all 54 pages…. WOW, some great ideas.
I now have several new projects in mind.
Thanks guys.

Here are a few more of my ideas:

1. Back in the days when I was using just a single stage press, I recognized that there was a lot of arm movement involved and found ways to eliminate as much as I could.

First of all was placing each lubricated brass in the shell holder for resizing then reaching for another.
I started picking up two at a time, simply switching them in my hand between my thumb and index finger.
Naturally there was a learning curve involved, but I soon got to where I could size two brass almost as quickly as just one.
This evolved into sizing three brass for each reach of the arm. The third brass was held between the index and middle finger.
Again there was a learning curve involved, but I was soon sizing three brass for each arm reach.
I also attempted four brass at a time, but it proved to not be practical.

Charging cases with powder one at a time also showed a lot of wasted movement.
I sped up this process by mounting the powder measure over the edge of the bench and charging all the brass while still in the (Hurter’s tall rifle) loading block.
Because of the design of the stand, I would have to charge only three rows of brass and then turn the loading block around to charge the last two rows.
After a little practice I was charging cases at a very high rate.
A quick look using a flashlight to check uniformity of charge height and I was ready to seat bullets.


Note the mounting location.

Seating bullets more than one at a time required that I placed a bullet on each case before I started.
I got so I could balance two handgun bullets on top of their brass for each reach of the arm.
When using boat tail rifle bullets, I got so I could seat three for each reach.
Flat based rifle bullets were still seated one at a time.

2. I have made several modifications to my reloading bench.
See my report about it in the Show us a picture of your reloading bench thread.

3. There have been more than a few good suggestions about Dillon equipment so far.
I’ll add this one for the Dillon powder measure.
Because of it’s location changing the charge on the Dillon powder measure is not really easy using an ordinary bench wrench.
So, I cut down an appropriate box end wrench to fit.


Adjustment wrench mounted on the powder measure.

The cut down wrench is long enough to have enough leverage to make very small adjustments and is still short enough to allow 360 degree turning for large ones.

Naturally, such a small item can quickly become lost among the tools on my reloading bench.
I modified the Dillon Allen wrench bracket mounted behind the XL650 press.
A hole was drilled and tapped for a cut down screw.
The screw was also supported by a nut on the back held tight with Super Glue.


Note the brass tube spacer.






Now it is always where I can find it.

4. Several people have suggested using a three ring notebook.
Because of the number of different cartridges that I reload, I have use a separate notebook for each cartridge.
This contains all my notes and reloading records for that cartridge.
There are several cartridges where I have also saved magazine articles referencing that cartridge in plastic page keepers



Steve

 

[Steve Cover]

I finally finished reading all 54 pages…. WOW, some great ideas.
I now have several new projects in mind.

<<< SNIP >>>
Steve

I tried to edit my last post, but was blocked somehow.

Formal reload records are kept on a custom designed Excel page on my computer.

I also print an updated one on 110 pound paper after entering new data to keep in that notebook for that cartridge.
I always review these records before starting to reload.

The header contains Maximum Case Length, Trim to Length, and Maximum Cartridge Length as provided in the loading manuals, and of course, the Cartridge Name.
The sheet contains reload number, number of rounds loaded, and date loaded
The column for the case contains box number (Always kept in the same box number), case make, times fired, trim (Y-N) and crimp (Y-N).
Bullet data is weight, make, type, seating depth and mfg lot number.
Powder column provides charge weight make, type (Bullseye… etc.) and mfg lot number.
(Near max loads are redeveloped from lower charge weights every time I change powder lots)
Primer data includes make, size, and lot number.
The line also has a block for Cartridge Overall Length.
There is also an area to record primer color (color felt tip pen) data for workup loads identification or specialty loads (handgun shot loads etc.).
The last column is for load source (what book etc.) and remarks.

Here is an example:



I also print up cartridge box load data on peel back label paper.

Like some of the others who have addressed this, I also print several sub-forms on 110 pound card stock and cut to size, for other information data.
I put cards in with my brass with total number and updated data from the reloading data sheet about trim and number of crimps.
In the case that the brass has been identified with a color mark, that data is recorded on the card too.
A card is put in with cast bullets listing total number, size and weight, and what the alloy is.

I’d be very interested in seeing anybody else’s reloading record format.
(I never stop incorporating good ideas into my record keeping)

Steve

 

[R.W.Dale]

I cannot take the credit for this one as it was provided by a fellow forum member years ago.

 

[Steve Cover]

Outstanding.

Thanks, I printed one up for reference

Steve

 

[tcoz]

Chargemaster reducing insert

If you have a Chargemaster 1500 and you use the "straw trick" you owe it to yourself to spend $13 (shipping included) and buy one of these reducing inserts. I've had mine for about six months and even though overthrows were never a big problem, the did occur once in a while. Since using the insert I can't remember having a single overthrow. Plus it looks a lot better than having a straw hanging out of the tube. I'm really impressed with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-Charge...902808?hash=item2cad690858:g:Fz4AAOxy9dVTkc8x

 

[thomas15]

commenting on post 1334 DRAINSMITH

Very good post. This weekend I broke the plastic bracket that holds the primer shuttle wire. Replaced it with the spare that came with the press. Needless to say no primers. I fiddled with it a bit and got it to work but then decided to check highboy and reviewed his videos 43 (primer shuttle adjustment) & 44 (shell plate timing). Did the adjustments and I not kidding the press has never worked better.

Moral of the story, take a little time to learn this press and make the adjustments and you will have a fantastic press!

 

[jaysouth]

Earlier post by sbwaters at #1307 and a valid concern:


"Vibrating tumbler: Concerned about lead? Switch to a wet stainless rotating tumbler."

I have a 14 year old grand son who handles my brass, sorting, depriming, tumbling, etc. To keep my conscience clear about contaminants, I wash my brass in hot water to fill the container full of brass, a teaspoon of Dawn, and a couple of teaspoons of white vinegar. After about 20 minutes soaking, rinse and place on tray to dry in the sun or warm oven. Then grandson and one or two of his friends sort, deprime and place in tumbler without danger of exposure to lead salts and whatever else coats dirty fired brass.

If I have any citric acid in the house, I use that to chemically clean and polish brass to a dull luster. Brass so cleaned is not as pretty as tumbling, but it still shoots well.

 

[vaalpens]

Third hand

I use a Lee safety primer, and always had some difficulty when I try to fill it. When filling I use two hands to open the primer tray slowly and then drop the primers on the safety prime tray. I always had to be careful not to spill or drop any primers since I normally tried to keep the safety primer level on my lap.

After a few spilled primers I started looking around what could make life easier for me, actually looking for a third hand to hold the safety primer while I fill it.

What i found, and what work well for me is a 45acp loading tray. The safety primer has plastic tabs sticking out, and the tab fits nicely in on of the tray holes. This now allow me to lay the safety primer flat, with an additional benefit that the remaining holes actually catches any spilled primers. No more trying to find spilled primers on the floor.

This picture shows the safety primer laying flat on the tray with the plastic tab inside one of the holes. It doesn't move and it is lays flat.

 

[jadm]

Originally Posted by deadeye dick View Post
My way of preventing a double charge when load is I use a loading block. decap and prime all 50 rnds, place in block than drop the powder in a case place in block than go to the next and so forth. Occasionally when I weigh a load the case stays in my hand dump in scale pan tap the empty case upsidedown on the bench top to be sure it's empty return to powder drop and put back in block. I find if you only handle the case once you can't double up. I use a Lee turret press. Works for me.


when loading I will use MTM plastic ammo boxes, on each reloading session I put a strip of tape on the lid (ipsc target patching tape, if you want to keep the tradition alive)
I note the the bullet weight/powder charge/date/and how many I loaded that day.
if I loaded 200 today I would say( 45acp/230gr/powder charge/7-29-2016/ 1-of 2 )
if for some reason i have a problem I can isolate the rounds I loaded on that one day
( 2 boxes) if you have a problem it will save you a lot of frustration. not to mention a lot of time on the bullet puller!!!!!!!

 

[drband]

I use a Lee safety primer, and always had some difficulty when I try to fill it. When filling I use two hands to open the primer tray slowly and then drop the primers on the safety prime tray. I always had to be careful not to spill or drop any primers since I normally tried to keep the safety primer level on my lap.



After a few spilled primers I started looking around what could make life easier for me, actually looking for a third hand to hold the safety primer while I fill it.



What i found, and what work well for me is a 45acp loading tray. The safety primer has plastic tabs sticking out, and the tab fits nicely in on of the tray holes. This now allow me to lay the safety primer flat, with an additional benefit that the remaining holes actually catches any spilled primers. No more trying to find spilled primers on the floor.



This picture shows the safety primer laying flat on the tray with the plastic tab inside one of the holes. It doesn't move and it is lays flat.

Try placing the empty safety prime unit (open) upside down on top of an open primer tray. Hold together securely and invert. All the primers should now be in the safety prime tray. Jiggle it a bit to turn the odd ones up, put on the cover, and you're done.

 

[vaalpens]

Try placing the empty safety prime unit (open) upside down on top of an open primer tray. Hold together securely and invert. All the primers should now be in the safety prime tray. Jiggle it a bit to turn the odd ones up, put on the cover, and you're done.

I will check again, but the Winchester primer tray is a bit bigger and the problem I had was that the 4 corner primers were outside round Lee primer tray.

 

[drband]

Then only uncover 7 rows of primers. Cover. Invert. Then carefully tip the remaining primers into the tray. Adjust as needed.
Good luck.

 

[ljnowell]

I use a Lee safety primer, and always had some difficulty when I try to fill it. When filling I use two hands to open the primer tray slowly and then drop the primers on the safety prime tray. I always had to be careful not to spill or drop any primers since I normally tried to keep the safety primer level on my lap.



After a few spilled primers I started looking around what could make life easier for me, actually looking for a third hand to hold the safety primer while I fill it.



What i found, and what work well for me is a 45acp loading tray. The safety primer has plastic tabs sticking out, and the tab fits nicely in on of the tray holes. This now allow me to lay the safety primer flat, with an additional benefit that the remaining holes actually catches any spilled primers. No more trying to find spilled primers on the floor.



This picture shows the safety primer laying flat on the tray with the plastic tab inside one of the holes. It doesn't move and it is lays flat.

That's exactly how I've always done it. It works perfectly.

 

[Skinnedknuckles]

I like the loading tray idea, and now that I have one I'll give it a try. Currently, I use two cartridge boxes and span the tray between them to achieve a similar result.

As far as flipping the primers into the (round) Auto Prime tray I have a cut off funnel that I set on the tray. I can then flip the primers into the funnel, even the large Federal trays, without spilling. I think I got that idea from this thread, but I'm not sure.

I then pick up the funnel, slide the primers around to flip them, and put on the cover.

With the new Auto Prime trays, they open up square so you can cover and flip, but I still like the round design better.

 

[drband]

Stealing the cut-off funnel idea!