What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

I put a 1x2" lengthwise on the floor below my loading bench as a sort of fence to prevent small dropped items from finding their way under my bench. I did not fasten it to anything as I keep my powder bottles under my bench and need access to them.
 
Most obnoxious color fingernail polish I could find; thinned and painted or syringed on primers.
 
Last edited:
Quite sure this tool/usage is nothing new to many folks,,,

Anywho,,,

I reload sitting down,,, I use an office 'task' chair with wheels

I tend to drop pieces of brass,,, (and just about everything else,,,)

Ok, get out of the chair, get what ya dropped, get back in the chair,,,

Been doing that since day one,,,

Had one of these hanging in the garage for months:

https://www.newamstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=197889

Figured I'd give it a shot,,,

Works like a charm on brass!!!!! Has a small magnet in the end as well,,,

It now has a permanent place on my reload bench!

(Feeling rather stupid that I didn't think of it earlier! )
 
I have had some problem with the height of the ‘case pusher’ on the new Lee Breech Lock progressive loaders automatic case feeder causing the case being pushed to be flicked out of the pusher. This was caused by the case above had enough leverage on the lower, pushed case to tilt it and out it went. My solution was to make custom pushers to provide as much support on the lower case to reduce the effect of the case above. I now have pushers for 9mm, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 10mm, 45 acp, 45 CS (cowboy special), and 45 Colt. All work like a charm, no more chasing around flying cases.
 
I have had some problem with the height of the ‘case pusher’ on the new Lee Breech Lock progressive loaders automatic case feeder causing the case being pushed to be flicked out of the pusher. This was caused by the case above had enough leverage on the lower, pushed case to tilt it and out it went. My solution was to make custom pushers to provide as much support on the lower case to reduce the effect of the case above. I now have pushers for 9mm, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 10mm, 45 acp, 45 CS (cowboy special), and 45 Colt. All work like a charm, no more chasing around flying cases.
Any possibility of a photo?
 
I have had a Sinclair concentricity gauge for a number of years and it works great. But due to pressure from the dial indicator plunger on the case neck the base end of the case would flip up and had to be firmly held down. This resulted in a somewhat jerky reading. This was while using my best Starrett dial indicator. I decided that a test indicator would provide less downward pressure and, therefore, result in a smoother reading.

The test indicator "style" concentricity gauges are rather pricey so I gathered up the parts I had and made my own. The magnetic base has an "on-off" switch which allows for easy movement on the steel plate. The knob on the rod that holds the test indicator allows you to lower the indicator's arm onto the case with very little pressure. A much more accurate reading is the result.
7D2_5460.JPG 7D2_5459.JPG
 
Last edited:
Got it. Good idea! Thanks.

I also mark brass, but for a totally different reason: I mark it with a black line across the base to indicate NOT to reload it again.
Growing up the black line meant blackpowder. My dad had a couple Damascus shotguns. He loved shooting them and didn't want to mix them with his brass cases for goose hunting.
 
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share that makes things just that much easier on your reloading bench ?


For me I have used coloured plastic zip ties around my dies to differentiate them in the turret press and also the spare sets that I have for different projectiles.

I also use 9mm MTM case guards to hold .38 HBWC rounds ( wonderful snug fit).

I took my Lyman T-Mag ram linkages apart and fitted fibre washes in the gaps to take out all the play. Made a huge difference in feel with the slop taken out.

I have covered my reloading bench with a sheet of white polymer board (what chopping boards are made out of) http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/starboard.aspx makes for a terrific easy clean and textured top.

I cut 1" of the top of the thread that holds the lid on my Lyman 1200 pro tumbler. It saves time and hassle not having to wind the pesky lid screw that extra unnecessary 1" all the time.

What can you share ?
 
I have a Hornady auto progressive press. I didn’t like the powder drop station due to the fact that an accurate drop is determined by the smooth consistent pull. When I’m in auto progressive press one pull; resizes the brass, deprimes, reprimes, bells, charges, and seats the bullet. This causes inaccuratsies with the powder drop with everything going on at once. I use it to resize and bell. Then the cases are hand batched reprimed, charged with the hornady auto charge, verified on a separate scale before being loaded. Anyone else in this situation?
 
Not to be a smart ass, but it sounds like you wasted your money on a progressive press. If you're asking if someone invented something to make your reloading easier, the only thing I can think of is the press you already have.
Although I would add, what you do is probably better if you're loading for match quality precision shooting. But I just don't see it for everyday stuff. YMMV
 
Back
Top