What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

[tcoz]

To keep cases with smaller mouths from getting stuck inside ones with larger mouths when tumbling them together, put the largest ones in first and turn on the tumbler just long enough for them to fill with media then add the next smaller size and do the same. Continue doing this with each size until you add the smallest mouth cases and then just let it run. Once the cases are filled with media, smaller ones wont get stuck inside.

 

[Gumby0961]

That those cheesy little collet rings that come with inertia bullet pullers are worthless and can be tossed. You can use a press shellholder for the caliber you are pulling and it works much better.

Brilliant!

 

[HEAVY METAL 1]

Tonight I had to pull some "mistakes". I used my old S/T Lyman to decap the cases. This press does not have the original primer catcher so catch the primers I had taken a pill bottle and cut a window in it just enough to stay on the press were the primer seater arm would normally attach. To corral any primers that didn't fall in the bottle and hit the floor I put an old towel on the floor and the primers stayed on the towel and didn't scoot around.

 

[BWS]

I'll admit to being a Brown & Sharpe junky or snob. That's the brand my family seemed to use and was gifted when they passed years ago,so that's my "label"?. These are #607 and one would be enough because they can come in sets with different length rods,I just found a cpl more to speed things up a bit.

I keep reasonably good handloading notes and have gotten used to recording die,body and stem heights when jotting down notes. I saw where some folks were using dial gages for this..... figured I'd show an alternative. Your dial caliper has this depth function but,these bases are much easier to "reach" being wider/longer.

 

[HEAVY METAL 1]

While having to pull apart "mistakes" with my inertial hammer I found it aggravated my carpal tunnel until I put a section of 3/4 inside diameter pipe insulation over the handle. It fit perfectly and I had no more irritation from my CT.

 

[Highland Lofts]

For taking loaded ammo apart with the inertial hammer I bought a 12 inch piece of railroad rail for $20 to smack the hammer on. A couple of wacks and done. A nice heavy steel surface makes it easier. Some times setting up the depth while seating new liads I go just a little to deep, a couple of light taps to get the projectile out of the case a little and reset the depth again.

 

[JFrank]

Why not just st use the rcbs collet Bullet puller ?
Isn’t that much simpler

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Why not just st use the rcbs collet Bullet puller ?
Isn’t that much simpler

Not if you're loading lead bullets. Also, there are a few jacketed bullet profiles that are hard to get a grip on.

 

[JFrank]

Always someone’ well then for those with lead Bullets disregard , the rest of the world - there’s a simple method

 

[wbbh]

Why not just st use the rcbs collet Bullet puller ?
Isn’t that much simpler

I've stuck with the hammer method because the bullets are too tapered so the clamps cannot get enough grip to pull the bullet.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I don't pull that many bullets to justify buying the collet bullet puller. And I use my piece of railroad rail for other purposes.

 

[WelshShooter]

I put sharpie markers on all my dies which act as datums. That way, if I ever need to disassemble the die for cleaning etc then I can quickly get it back to the same setup rather than starting from scratch.

For the seating dies, following on from above, once I have the desired seating depth for a particular bullet I will measure the stem height from the lock ring using the depth gauge on calipers to grossly measure the height and write on my die box. I then make a sharpie mark on the stem to add a datum.

In this particular example, we have a Redding seating die for 7.62x53mmR which shows the stem heights of 15mm for a 155gr Scenar and 17mm for a 185gr Scenar.

It has saved so much time in getting the die set up whenever I need to change bullets over. Of course you will still need to verify your seating depth before making up a batch but you still save a ton of time.

 

[Tilos]

I put sharpie markers on all my dies which act as datums. That way, if I ever need to disassemble the die for cleaning etc then I can quickly get it back to the same setup rather than starting from scratch.

For the seating dies, following on from above, once I have the desired seating depth for a particular bullet I will measure the stem height from the lock ring using the depth gauge on calipers to grossly measure the height and write on my die box. I then make a sharpie mark on the stem to add a datum.

In this particular example, we have a Redding seating die for 7.62x53mmR which shows the stem heights of 15mm for a 155gr Scenar and 17mm for a 185gr Scenar.

It has saved so much time in getting the die set up whenever I need to change bullets over. Of course you will still need to verify your seating depth before making up a batch but you still save a ton of time.

View attachment 864247

I kinda do the same, except I use the depth/step feature on the back of a dial caliper.
I sometimes flatten the stems to get repeatable measurements on seating dies, crimp dies, powder measures, etc.
I don't bother marking the dies but rather record all the reference measurements in my re-loading log book.
Bullet seater:

Powder Measure:

Factory Crimp Die:

I have found that this method does not just get you close but exactly to the previous OAL, Powder weight, etc.
I have also recorded measurements from the top of a die to the lock ring if I plan to change that setting for any reason.
I know I've posted this before and apologize for the repeat.

Edit: I don't use lock nuts on seater dies anymore, just a piece of tape over the top so I know it has not turned/moved. I load a lot of different bullets in the same calibers and not using the nut, just tape, speeds up resetting.

Note the hybrid Disc Measure return, the arm made for use with the chain but with a spring instead
Easily disconnected for throwing a test charge to weigh.

 

[Coyote conquest]

I don't know if anybody has posted this. I went through about 15 pages and did not see it. I use old funnels in my powder measures. I put the spout in the powder measure and the funnel sits on top of the powder measure. I fill the funnel up with powder. They work great as baffles and make it easier to pour powder in them when it's low. When im finished , I use it to put the powder back in the container.

 

[lordpaxman]

For those of you that use a Hornady LNL: Occasionally the shell plate will make a quick jerking action that will cause powder to "jump" out of a number of cases. I believe in my case that's due to the spent primer not dropping down and out but hangs up the plate a bit. At any rate, I used to take those cases out of the press, dump the unknown powder throw and just wait till the end of the session to put them back in line for a powder charge. Then I had one of them there eureka... followed by a duh moment. Sitting on the press is a case activated powder dispenser. Just manually re-charge the cases in question!

 

[BC17A]

When I started to reload 32 Auto, my Guardian would distort the brass just enough so it wouldn't slip smoothly into the sizing die. About one out of five cases would get crunched. I made this tapered tool from a piece of scrap round stock and a Harbor Freight "free" screwdriver handle. During inspection, I just lightly push each case on the tool to straighten the mouth. Works like a charm as I haven't ruined a single piece of brass since I made it.

 

[Speedo66]

That those cheesy little collet rings that come with inertia bullet pullers are worthless and can be tossed. You can use a press shellholder for the caliber you are pulling and it works much better.

Wow, this was posted way back in 2006, last post I can find by this gentleman was in 2008. Great idea, the shellholder fits perfectly in my RCBS hammer puller, holds the cartridge tightly. The piece that came with the puller is held together with an O-ring, with a good wack, will release the case out the top.

It has also definitely decreased the number of hits to release a bullet.

Thanks for the great idea!

 

[skeeterfogger]

Tenon pin locator.

 

[Scrapiron45]

I wanted to work up a load using a lead swc for my marlin 44 mag. The bore slugged at .4315 and my mold was dropping. 430 dia. slugs. I've read about "beagleing " a mold but I wanted a little more control in the process. I had a little arbor press I'd made as a shop project years ago so I put a bullet in it and tapped the arbor with a brass hammer a few licks. After a few practice runs I was able to increase the diameter of 10 each to. 432 and .433. By scribing a line on the arbor at the top of the frame I could be consistent with the sizing. Wouldn't want to do a hundred this way but maybe it'll help me learn what size mold I want to end up with.

 

[1 Cor 2:9]

Brilliant!

to 4TheResistance ; i wonder if this problem will EVER go away? please be aware of the safety issue with using a shell holder to decap rounds. YOU DO NOT DO IT!! i have SEEN what can result if you try to use a shell holder in this way. the shell holder was NEVER meant to be used this way!! the facts is that if you are pulling bullets using a kinetic (read hammer type) bullet puller, DO NOT USE anything but the original parts it came with!!! a shell holder can and HAS caused primers to detonate on impact!! it covers a large part of the rear of the cartridge and that INCLUDES the PRIMER!! the pictures i saw of the persons hand AFTER the round went off were enough to convince me that the 6 bucks for the replacement collet for my puller was a hell of a lot CHEAPER than a trip to the e-ward to have a doctor spend 4 hours removing the pieces of a serious case of stupidity from your hands, face, legs, body, privates, etc. the one i saw was in 1985 in a gun store in Downers Grove just west of downtown Chicago and was the result of a .338 that detonated in the hammer type puller on the first blow to a hard surface.
this guy lost his left eye, had over 30 pieces of the case and hammer removed from the legs, front of the torso, both arms, and lost "one of the boys" need i really go on? the worst was that his older son (mid late teens i think) was hurt too

the way i see it, 6 bucks beats the hell out of $27,000.00 worth of surgery.

the kinetic bullet pullers are built the way they are built to keep you from getting hurt!!
the collet that comes with them DOES NOT COVER the rear of the cartridge FOR A REASON!! it is NEVER worth the risk to you or yours to simple ignore a safety rule when reloading. yes its a lot of fun working with gun powder and primers, bringing forth your own rounds for your effort. but don't forget that all it takes is a single mistake to ruin your whole life!!!

Uncle Don; you should know better!

i have been reloading since 1978 and in all that time i have NEVER had a problem with safety! never had one primer "blow" in the press. not one problem with bullet pulling. yes i have made mistakes, but because i check and re-check my work over and over as many as 10 times to make sure what i am doing is the right thing, i can say that i have NEVER had a mistake that didn't catch and correct no matter how much time or money it takes to be safe in absolutely every thing i do in reloading!! a totally blemish free record is humanly impossible, but that doesn't keep me from trying as hard as i can to get there!! and i am man enough to admit my failures, the three incidents that i had over the years are 1) put the wrong powder load into 793 rounds of 5.56mm, (all were dissasembled with an RCBS collet type bullet puller die to prevent powder spillage and re assembled with the correct load.) 2) had a primer flip over in the seater and had to remove it from the cartridge and reseat it correctly. 3) missed filling the powder throw when i should have and had to rework 19 rounds of .357 mag ammo. that's it. i did it by making safety my personal business, with no exceptions. period.
i would like to hear from the rest of you about this, is a $6 dollar part worth an eye, a finger? or worse?

besides, i really hate stitches!

I think the man has a point. I know I have come up with a good Idea that turned out to be not so good. Sorry if someone else has already posted this but I started at the beginning of this thread/post and decided I would check and see if it is still going when I read your post and felt this would be a prudent post to bring up.

 

[GW Staar]

I think the man has a point. I know I have come up with a good Idea that turned out to be not so good. Sorry if someone else has already posted this but I started at the beginning of this thread/post and decided I would check and see if it is still going when I read your post and felt this would be a prudent post to bring up.

I never found the posts you referred to.....too many posts to few years left

But I'm pretty sure that accidents of this sort occur with cases with "proud" primers.....not set below flush. The problem with using a shell holder is that the cases can slide just enough to allow the proud primer to hit an edge of the holder. The holder does have a hole in back for to drop spent primers through, but they are not big enough unless you have that case set tight and immovable. How you do that is another thing. If you use a plastic puller, the factory part is probably cheapest, easiest, and safest....just requires patience to wait for UPS.

Me? I built a kinetic based on plans in "Handloader" magazine probably 40 years ago.....long before /rcbs and others built them out of plastic.....mine was built out of iron water pipe! and yes the case are held by case holders.....but with a "keeper" to keep it centered. My primers never touch anything put air

I've changed "keepers" over the years based on learning how to make things simpler. If and when I buy a 3d printer I will probably start making them out of plastic. But I wouldn't use ANY kinetic puller without something that keeps a proud primer centered.
Why would I make one of these in this day and age?......probably wouldn't.....until I broke a plastic one......this one has lasted 40 plus years. Anything broke? Yeah I finally split the cap that hits the concrete......cast iron parts at Home Depot parts are cheap..... the reducer on the other end is where the shellholder stops.....the keeper is in the cap over that....molded to center it, then another part slides in over the case.....that final part is what I'd 3d print....as it is I cast one to fit each caliber. Can't explode if it only touches air.

Obviously, foam is in the big red cap in the bottom to catch the bullet.

 

[tcoz]

I’ve seen the same warning in posts over the years on various forums and none of them ever mentioned proud primers but I was also never able to find a reason for the warnings. I guess the appropriate advice here is to be aware of the potential and use a shellholder at your own risk.

 

[1 Cor 2:9]

I never found the posts you referred to.....too many posts to few years left

But I'm pretty sure that accidents of this sort occur with cases with "proud" primers.....not set below flush. The problem with using a shell holder is that the cases can slide just enough to allow the proud primer to hit an edge of the holder. The holder does have a hole in back for to drop spent primers through, but they are not big enough unless you have that case set tight and immovable. How you do that is another thing. If you use a plastic puller, the factory part is probably cheapest, easiest, and safest....just requires patience to wait for UPS.

Me? I built a kinetic based on plans in "Handloader" magazine probably 40 years ago.....long before /rcbs and others built them out of plastic.....mine was built out of iron water pipe! and yes the case are held by case holders.....but with a "keeper" to keep it centered. My primers never touch anything put air

I've changed "keepers" over the years based on learning how to make things simpler. If and when I buy a 3d printer I will probably start making them out of plastic. But I wouldn't use ANY kinetic puller without something that keeps a proud primer centered.
Why would I make one of these in this day and age?......probably wouldn't.....until I broke a plastic one......this one has lasted 40 plus years. Anything broke? Yeah I finally split the cap that hits the concrete......cast iron parts at Home Depot parts are cheap..... the reducer on the other end is where the shellholder stops.....the keeper is in the cap over that....molded to center it, then another part slides in over the case.....that final part is what I'd 3d print....as it is I cast one to fit each caliber. Can't explode if it only touches air.
View attachment 865960
Obviously, foam is in the big red cap in the bottom to catch the bullet.

Post #617 is the post referring to not using shell holders in your kinetic puller way back about pg 24.

 

[Speedo66]

Post #617 is the post referring to not using shell holders in your kinetic puller way back about pg 24.

Thanks for finding that, maybe saved me some body parts. Tried to drill out the shell holder to a size that couldn't contact a primer, but the shell holder steel was more than a match for my drill bits.

 

[oldreloader]

Thanks for finding that, maybe saved me some body parts. Tried to drill out the shell holder to a size that couldn't contact a primer, but the shell holder steel was more than a match for my drill bits.

some shell holders hav a bigger hole. IIRC Lee does but I am not at home now. I’m not telling anyone else to do it but I’ve done it for quite some time. I just make sure that I don’t have a high primer and keep the cap tight.