What is the difference between a rimfire scope and a centerfire scope?

[Lone_Gunman]

They seem to be in seperate categories in catalogs and on manufacturer web sites, but why? how are they different?

 

[R.W.Dale]

Generally speaking the rimfires have less eye relief and they are focused to be parallax free at closer ranges.

 

[Lone_Gunman]

Why would you want less eye relief?

I am looking at scopes to go on a Ruger 77/22 mag bolt action. This rifle is basically sized the same as a centerfire model. Wouldnt I want the same amount of eye relief?

 

[LHB1]

I always thought the centerfire scopes were built to withstand more recoil than the inexpensive .22 scopes also.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

 

[R.W.Dale]

If you look closely at an adjustable objective rimfire and centerfire scope. A centerfire will have a focus set up for sumpin like 100 , 200 ,300 , 500yds ect
Where as a rimfire will usually focus 25 , 50 , 100 , 200. As for eyerelief it aint enough to matter you just wouldn't want to put a rimfire scope on a synthetic 30-06 that could hurt.

 

[CB900F]

Lone;

The major difference is the parallax setting. Most centerfire type scopes are set at 150 yards, give or take among brands. Most rimfire scopes are set at 75 yards, again as a generalization.

Then we get into the variables with Adjustable Objective lens's, commonly shown as; A/O. These days though, side focus is also accomplishing the same thing in a different manner. Think of A/O as being able to adjust to be parallax free at the range you wish to shoot.

Generally speaking, for the type of rimfire shooting I like to do, I prefer scopes that are above, frequently well above, $125.00 in price. That usually means A/O in a centerfire type scope. Not that there aren't very good rimfire dedicated scopes without A/O, but they also frequently don't have other features I want, like mil-dot reticles.

The better rimfire scopes also tend to double as airgun scopes. Airgun scopes have to have better recoil resistance than your run-of-the-mill centerfire scopes believe it or not. This is due to the double pulse fore-and-aft momentum inherent in many airguns.

Many 'budget' rimfire scopes have glass better suited to the bottoms of pop bottles. Eye fatigue can be a real problem even after a short shooting session. I've seen radial distortion in one rimfire scope, that wouldn't have believed if I hadn't seen it myself. This was while helping a friend sight in a gun he'd bought for his boy.

Pay for the glass, it's worth it.

900F

 

[MCgunner]

If you look closely at an adjustable objective rimfire and centerfire scope. A centerfire will have a focus set up for sumpin like 100 , 200 ,300 , 500yds ect
Where as a rimfire will usually focus 25 , 50 , 100 , 200. As for eyerelief it aint enough to matter you just wouldn't want to put a rimfire scope on a synthetic 30-06 that could hurt.

That's not a focus, that's a parallax error adjustment. Rimfire scopes are normally parallax free at 50 yards if the parallax is fixed. Don't even consider those little cheapo .22 scope POSs. They're not worth the plastic they're made out of. But, you probably know that.

 

[MCgunner]

If you look closely at an adjustable objective rimfire and centerfire scope. A centerfire will have a focus set up for sumpin like 100 , 200 ,300 , 500yds ect
Where as a rimfire will usually focus 25 , 50 , 100 , 200. As for eyerelief it aint enough to matter you just wouldn't want to put a rimfire scope on a synthetic 30-06 that could hurt.

That's not a focus, that's a parallax error adjustment. Rimfire scopes are normally parallax free at 50 yards if the parallax is fixed. Don't even consider those little cheapo .22 scope POSs. They're not worth the plastic they're made out of. But, you probably know that.

 

[rangerruck]

krokus and cb900 are right, allthough, youmight want to look at the rimfire scopes to see if they are also designed for air rifle. they are actually made to take hard push pull recoil, very tough!

 

[AStone]

Rimfire v. centerfire focus & parallax

Glad to find this thread. Timely, it is.

Went to the range today to do a second round with my relatively new CZ452 (.22LR) and the scope I bought (at recommendation): a Swift Premier 3X-9X 40mm.

Now, I admit, when I was buying said scope, and even more so after I bought it, I said to self, "This seems a big scope for this rifle."

Racking the bolt is ... tight, with so little room under that 40 mm scope.

Yet I was attracted to its light gathering capacity (squirrels are such crepuscular critters, afterall), and by the confidence of the salesperson (who is a varminter more than squirrel hunter, btw).

So, today, at the range, I noticed that said scope does great at 50 yds.

With my brand new CZ 452, at 50 yds, I can sink 5 rnd groups inside of 1". (OK, OK, 1.5". But hey, it's a brand new gun. It's a freaking tack driver.)

But at 25 yds, I adjust said scope's focus to the maximum (er, minimum) distance, and still the target (numbers and letters on the shot up target that I'm using as "bullseyes") are 'fuzzy'.

So I asked myself, "Self, did I buy the right scope for this gun? Is this a scope more appropriate for a centerfire rifle that shoots 1" groups at 200 yds, or for varminters at 150?"

What would be a better scope for a crackerjack .22LR?

Thoughts welcomed.

Nem

 

[Meplat]

krokus and cb900 are right, allthough, youmight want to look at the rimfire scopes to see if they are also designed for air rifle. they are actually made to take hard push pull recoil, very tough!

Yessir. Quickest way to destroy a fine highpower riflescope is to attach it to an air rifle. Or a .50 BMG with a good muzzle brake.

 

[rockstar.esq]

But at 25 yds, I adjust said scope's focus to the maximum (er, minimum) distance, and still the target (numbers and letters on the shot up target that I'm using as "bullseyes") are 'fuzzy'.
Nem

So if I understand you correctly, you are attempting to adjust the FOCUS and what you're getting is a blurry image. This might be applicable to using your variable scope at it's 9x setting for the short 25yd shot. I find that it's FAR easier to adjust the power ring until both the crosshairs and the image are focused. My thinking is that at the 9x setting, the "sweet spot" for achieving a sharp focus is difficult to achieve. This matter is made all the worse by the typical american style slow focus twist. I have a Euro fast focus type and it works TON's easier for me as I become more aware that I'm twisting the wrong way without 40 turns in the wrong direction. So in order to get yourself back to focused, I'd recommend that you take up a supported position with your unloaded rifle at home near a window. Allowing the rifle to rest on some object, peer through a window at a fairly simple target that is at least 100 yds away. I find that clapboard siding on neighbor houses works great. Now set the power ring on it's lowest setting and adjust the focus until you're satisfied that the image can't get any better. Bringing the power up to maximum might show you that you need a bit of fine tuning. At this point, don't monkey with your focus again. Now any time you encounter "fuzziness" on the part of your reticle, bring the power down until you're back on track. Frequently, I find myself using settings as low as 3x to great effect out to 125yds with my .22LR.

 

[AStone]

My thinking is that at the 9x setting, the "sweet spot" for achieving a sharp focus is difficult to achieve.

Rockstar, thanks for your post.

It will be tomorrow sometime before I fully grok all of it, but i can tell there's useful info there in.

The key term for me was "sweet spot".

I'm a sound system owner, so 'sweet spot' has meaning to me (as the place at the apex of an equilateral triangle formed by the two {hard-driven by thousands of W} speaker stacks and you.

Hey, that's a great idea. I think I'll listen to some music while trying to analyze this scope issue.

Ah, yes. Music soothes the savage beast.

Nem

 

[AStone]

It will be tomorrow sometime before I fully grok all of it, but i can tell there's useful info there in.

I was wrong about the length of time needed to understand your recommendations.

Got it.

Nice ideas.

I'll definitely make sure about the unloaded rifle part, and also use a nearby tree for sighting practice (to further insure neighbor safety).

But yeah, all very reasonable suggestions. Makes sense that focus is coupled to magnification and distance.

Looking forward to exploring this. Thanks, again for ideas.

Report forthcoming.

Nem

 

[MEDDAC19]

Lone

You don't want less eye relief. The reason centerfire scopes have more eye relief is so you don't get the dreaded scope bite. Many inexperienced shooters creep up too close to their scope, and with recoil, get smacked, and usually cut above their eye. Rimfire rifles have little, to no, recoil so having a scope with little eye relief won't be a problem.

 

[CB900F]

Nema;

Without knowing what budget range you're in, it's difficult to make real - your world - suggestions as to scope choices. That being the case, I'm going to give you a range of suggestions.

Basic good .22 scope; Sightron 1S 3-9X rimfire, should be obtainable for $120.00 give or take $10.00 with shipping etc. This is a rimfire specific scope, I've got one.

Scope with frills; Bushnell Legend 5-15X A/O mil-dot, around $190.00 again with the give or take. This scope is a centerfire & below the Elite grade of Bushnell, & therefore not overly expensive. It does have A/O on the objective lens, mil-dots, and a fast focus Euro ocular. I find the fast focus ocular to be a P.I.A. & set mine & then clear siliconed it in place. For fast variables, the mil-dots are great. I use this scope for small varmint hunting where you can get 12 shots a minute at varying ranges & all angles. No time to fuss with turrets, mil-dots are great. I've also got one of these.

Good scope, some frills; Weaver V16 4-16X A/O, FCH. The A/O on this will allow indoor 50 foot range shooting, the Fine Cross Hair reticle is pretty much for target/varmint work. I have had this one on a Volquartsen .22lr for years & am very happy with it. About $275.00, or so.

Very good scope with frills; Nikon Monarch 3.3-10X A/O mil-dot. This scope will most likely cost more than your gun, unless you're in pretty good company. Retail is close to $400.00. I've just got this, but it's not on its intended gun yet. None-the-less, I've already put my money where my mouth is. We shall see how it works, but I'm confident it'll do the job.

900F

 

[AStone]

CB900F (and others),

What do you think of the Leupold VX-I 2-7x28mm Rimfire for a .22LR? (I tried in vain to provide a link to this scope, first on the Leupold site, then other sites. But use of frames prohibited that attempt. <sigh>. Check it out on the Leupold site at http://www.leupold.com/products/scopes.asp. (Meanwhile, I'm considering an email to the Leupold webmaster to tell him how much his website sucks.)

I'm entertaining the idea that I bought (read, was sold) an inappropriate scope for my CZ 452. (See above: Swift Premier 3X-9X 40mm). Good scope it is, but it just doesn't seem right for this gun. Seems like a scope for a centerfire rifle.

I've read and reread this thread several times. Wish there were more posts to it, but going with what's here - especially Rockstar & CF900F's suggestions - it seems like I've not done well with this scope. So, I'm thinking of changing it to a dedicated rimfire scope.

I'm interested in Leupold because I'd like to put a 3X-9X 40mm VX-II on my upcoming 7mm08 (as soon as I decide which rifle and get enough cash to do the sale...). I'd like to stay with a scope maker I know and trust (not that your other suggestions, CF, aren't great scopes, it's just that I'd prefer to stay with a name I know made close to where I live...)

Opinions welcome.

Nem

 

[Lone_Gunman]

Update...

The rifle I was scoping was a Ruger Mod 77 Target in 22 mag. I ended up going with a Nikon Monarch. It is not specifically designated a rimfire scope. The scope works perfectly, and I am quite impressed with the gun as well.

It groups into less than an inch at 100 yards.

 

[CB900F]

Nema;

I just checked Bear Basin & the Loopy site for the scope you're talking about, the Leupold VX-1 2-7X 28mm. That's a $220.00 scope in matte, S&H add $10.00 or so. Let's discuss the Leupold vx the Bushnell Legend 5-15 A/O mil-dot.

The VX-1, being rimfire specific, has the parallax set at 60 yards according to the Leupold site. The Bushnell has A/O. Which one is correct for you depends more on the shooting you're going to do than the feature itself. But, no A/O adjustment to have to turn on the Leupold.

The Leupold probably has the better glass/coatings. But, how important is that? Most rimfire shooting isn't done at dawn & dusk. The last tenth of a percent of light transmission simply isn't critical in virtually all of the rimfire shooting I've done over the decades. The money spent for the best glass may be better spent obtaining other features that will serve you better, magnification for instance.

Some very real world questions are; what's the projected target/game, & at what ranges? The Bushnell at 5-15X better serves me for small varmint shots at extended rimfire ranges in daylight, than 2-7X. But, if squirrels at a max 50 yards were the game, then the Leupold may very well be the better choice. I'm shooting ground squirrels in alfalfa fields anywhere from 0 yards to 125 yards. Yes, I've quite literally shot them between my feet! A head shot at 90 yards wants more than 7X magnification for my old eyes. That's roughly a golf ball sized target, that moves, suddenly. Mil-dots are a God-send, there is no time to adjust turrets. On the other hand, the Bushnell is a larger, heavier scope than the Leupold.

Now then, I recently purchased a CZ 452 LHB for my new gopher gun. These ground squirrels are referred to locally as 'gophers', but are not the little buggers with the stripes seen in the midwest. The scope I'm going to put on this gun, as soon as the rings arrive, is the Nikon Monarch 3.3-10X A/O mil-dot, and that glass cost within a very few dollars of what the gun did.

Over all, if you don't want the size & weight of the Bushnell, & the mil-dots don't serve your purpose, then do a critical evaluation of the Leupold vs the Sightron. The Sightron will save you something close to a hundred dollars that may be spent for other things, like a good Turner sling, that'll also help your shooting.

900F

 

[ID_shooting]

I like leupold scopes and have had excellent results with an M8 4x on my 10/22. With good ammo, it shoots minute of pop can @ 100, also takes whistle pigs out to 125. Before buying the M8, I tried many differnt 3-9 AO scopes, Nikon, Weaver, and Millett to name a few. The M8 was my first "high-end" scope. Now I have leupold on everything. Were I constantly shooting @ 100 - 150 with a 22, I would put an M8 6x, an older 8x from e-bay, or even thier 12x.

 

[AStone]

900F, thanks for your reply. Very interesting advice. It helps me a lot.

I'm honestly not familiar yet with the concept of 'mil dot' (even though I think I know what it is), but will research it before going any further with this.

Here are the key sections of your post that relate to me, I think:

The Leupold probably has the better glass/coatings. But, how important is that? Most rimfire shooting isn't done at dawn & dusk. The last tenth of a percent of light transmission simply isn't critical in virtually all of the rimfire shooting I've done over the decades. ... <snip>

Some very real world questions are; what's the projected target/game, & at what ranges? The Bushnell at 5-15X better serves me for small varmint shots at extended rimfire ranges in daylight, than 2-7X. But, if squirrels at a max 50 yards were the game, then the Leupold may very well be the better choice.

Indeed, the main reason I'm buying this gun is for squirrel hunting. Not ground squirrels, however, but tree squirrels: gray, red, fox...

I may take a try with rabbits, too (jacks over in the desert), but squirrel is my main planned target for now.

I grew up in TN shooting squirrels with a .22 (Remington Nylon 66 scoped with something that I've forgotten now... Swift, I think).

I haven't hunted squirrel in ... 30 years, but recent threads about it (and the recipes! ) have given me squirrel fever.

Therefore, unless the biology of western squirrels is signficantly different than eastern squirrels, I suspect that I will indeed be shooting a lot at dawn and dusk, and even at midday, in our rainforest here, the light is not that great.

And yes, I suspect that most of my shots will be in that sub 100 yd range, closer to 30 - 60 yds, some closer.

It's that closer issue that motivates me to think about 2X - 7X scopes for a wider field of view, especially in smaller diameter scope (e.g., 28 or 30 mm).

It was that kind of scope that I had in mind to buy for this CZ, but somehow, I got talked out of it by my (ostensibly well-meaning) gunshop salesperson. (In his defense, he's a prairie dog shooter, not a squirrel hunter, so I think he was nudging me towards that.)

OK, I'll also check out those Sightrons you speak of.

Again, thanks for your advice. Please don't hesitate to add more if you see fit.

Nem