what to put on leather holster?

[old fart]

i have a duel carry 2 from desantis, it is not molded to my gun although desantis says in time that it will shape itself to the gun. they claim to never add anything to a holster but i can't see the leather never needing anything at all. do ya'll add anything on your holsters from time to time? i know i won't need to put much on and not too often but over time should i use anything and if so what? thanks

 

[JTQ]

This holster? https://www.desantisholster.com/dua...MIt5bV0_Wi4AIVXLnACh0MoQA0EAAYASAAEgKOPPD_BwE

Milt Sparks has some tips in their FAQ section https://www.miltsparks.com/questions.php

FAQ #15 from High Noon https://www.highnoonholsters.com/faqs

Kramer FAQ #1 https://www.kramerleather.com/pages/faqs

Clear paste wax is the typical recommendation.

I've never put anything on my holsters.

 

[JohnB-40]

Renaissance Wax

 

[Varminterror]

It depends in part how the holster is finished originally. For example: Any of the high sheen lacquer types will seal the pores of the leather and won't let it accept any wax or cream - really a low-maintenance finish, but also one of the less natural finishes out there. Non-lacquered, traditional paste luster leathers will only soften with oils, so only waxes and glycerin should be used, and then only sparingly, if ever.

As a leatherworker with a degree in chemical engineering, I've never been a fan of Renaissance Wax for any "using" leather gear. It's a microcrystalline wax, which makes it fantastically stable and enduring for preserving museum pieces, but that structure also means it can damage the collagen fibers in the leather as the leather flexes and abrades itself against the microcrystals. The net result is weakening of the leather over time, apparently softening first, but largely breaking down the "hand" of the leather.

Largely, holsters shouldn't need anything. I use Fiebings paste wax for most of my holster work, only when they absolutely need it - which is almost never.

Galco EZ Draw can be used to help break in the holster to your pistol, as can simple rubbing alcohol - but care must be taken to be understand the nature of the finish, as alcohol can strip or streak colors (and can re-establish some of the firmness lost if a holster is over-oiled). Soaking in water and inserting the pistol wrapped in a ziploc bag then drying will improve the fit as well, but it also runs the risk of poor drying and introduction of mold.

 

[labnoti]

I have some experience with leatherwork, but not holsters. So my question is what is good for a newly minted holster I just made? It is undyed Herman Oak veg-tanned leather. Does the same recommendation of "nothing" apply?

I've used Renaissance Wax and like that product for leather (have not used it on a holster though), wood and metal. I use it on the wood and metal of rifles I don't shoot on a weekly basis. In my arid climate, it's quite sufficient even for extended storage. It is a microcrystalline wax, made by de-oiling petroleum. This is in contrast to the other petroleum wax: paraffin wax, and the other common types of wax which are vegetable waxes like carnauba and animal waxes like beeswax. I certainly get good use of wax on leather for boots, leashes, belts and so on. I'm reading up some of those FAQ's before I put anything on the holster I made.

 

[redneck]

I give them a couple coats of saddle oil and then a top coat of Feibings Tan Kote to seal them. I tried the method of leaving it dry so it would be stiffer and found that they don't hold up nearly as well as when properly oiled. As long as you don't saturate it into a greasy mess it won't lose its shape. Brush some saddle oil on the grain side and let it soak in. Do that 2 or 3 times and then seal it and you will be good.

I oil mine about once a year after that as the finish will eventually wear in places, but I am doing farm and mechanic work and my holsters take a beating.

 

[CraigC]

Leather dries out over time, undeniable fact. The major point here is that it dries and cracks after any warranty from any of those manufacturers has expired. They don't care if your holster dries and cracks in 10yrs of use. However, they do care if in six months you've treated your holster like a baseball glove and put so much mink oil on it that it's turned into a brown leather diaper. So rather than relying on the knowledge and self control of your average consumer, they choose the lesser of two evils and say to put nothing on them. Unfortunately this has created the myth that oiling or conditioning leather softens and ruins it. Not true at all. Through the process of fleshing, tanning and pounding the hides into something usable, it loses its natural moisture. This is one reason why we wet it to manipulate it, to prevent cracking. Any reputable maker will oil his goods before they are finished, it is unavoidable. Some use neatsfoot oil. John Bianchi dips his completed rigs in a big pot of warm neatsfoot oil. Others like myself use extra virgin olive oil. So the idea that oil ruins leather is just absurd. I've had hides that were so dry it took half a dozen coats of oil or more before it was pliable without cracking. However, this doesn't last forever and that moisture needs to be replenished periodically. A light coat of oil or treatment with Lexol or other conditioner once every year or two is plenty. The key is to not overdo it.

Wax doesn't do this. Neither does saddle soap. In fact, saddle soap will dry out leather.

 

[redneck]

...
Wax doesn't do this. Neither does saddle soap. In fact, saddle soap will dry out leather.

You wouldn't believe how much trouble I have convincing our horse training clients that there is a difference between cleaning leather and conditioning it. Some of them clean their tack every ride, and then wonder why it's falling apart. I take it and oil it for 3 days and they think I used magic on it.

 

[Jack Ryan]

i have a duel carry 2 from desantis, it is not molded to my gun although desantis says in time that it will shape itself to the gun. they claim to never add anything to a holster but i can't see the leather never needing anything at all. do ya'll add anything on your holsters from time to time? i know i won't need to put much on and not too often but over time should i use anything and if so what? thanks

No.

 

[herrwalther]

Once a year I clean my holster with saddle soap on a horse hair brush. After I wipe the soap off I condition it with mink oil. I would avoid the mink oil tin from Kiwi. They have a silicone protector in their mink oil that gives leather a very tacky feeling.

 

[nettlle]

Renaissance Wax for holsters. Oils soften leather. Not necessarily a bad thing for leather but a softened leather holster doesn't contribute a lot to the best gun retention.

If you are going frog gigging and submerging your holster in the river oil it afterwards to keep it from turning in to a leather fritter. For dry normal day to day wear Renaissance Wax is really pretty good stuff.

 

[Birdhunter1]

On a holster I recently bought for my 7 1/2” Ruger Blackhawk 45 Colt I used Feiblings Neetsfoot oil, though the leather on that one is very much like the leather on my horse saddles.
The other thing I do on most all leather holsters is to smother the gun with gun oil and stick the gun in it and wrap it tight with vet wrap (kinda like an ace bandage). It helps the leather to form to the gun but eventually it will anyway this just kinda speeds the process up.

 

[CraigC]

Renaissance Wax for holsters. Oils soften leather. Not necessarily a bad thing for leather but a softened leather holster doesn't contribute a lot to the best gun retention.

If you are going frog gigging and submerging your holster in the river oil it afterwards to keep it from turning in to a leather fritter. For dry normal day to day wear Renaissance Wax is really pretty good stuff.

As I said, wax does nothing for restoring the leather's moisture. Oils only soften leather if overdone. If a holster gets submerged, let it dry naturally over a few days and if it seems too dry, a light coat of oil is a good idea.