What's your most accurate load for 38 Special? Also, a few other questions.

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Zaydok Allen

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Yesterday I finally made it to the range. I haven't gotten to shoot since maybe September. Honestly I can't recall if I got out or not. It might have been July. Life has thrown some unexpected curveballs my way this year.

I tried out my first reloaded 38 Special +p's yesterday. I was using Xtreme 158 gr platted FP bullets over a ladder of AA#5. Load started at 5.4 and worked up incrementally. 5.6, 5.8, 6.0, 6.2, 6.4 grs. I know this isn't known to be a particularly common loading for 38's but I was in search of load data for platted bullets, because that's what I had, and this was a combo my Lee manual had. There was also a Platted FP Berry's bullet load that mirrored the Lee data in my Western Powders loading manual.

Anyway, they shot like crap, and the recoil was a bit more than I expected. I mean I expected +p recoil, but I guess I just was a touch surprised. But like I said, I haven't shot in awhile. I did see a pretty nice group at the 6.0 gr loading in my 686 Competitor, but it was not really mirrored in my 686+ 3" gun. I was only shooting at 10 yards.

The first four loadings shot so poorly out of my Ruger SP101 that I put that gun away after 35 rounds and didn't bother with it again.

I suspect strongly that I was a major part of the problem. Accuracy seemed to increase with higher powder charges, but I'm guessing I settled in at that point. I noticed a tendency for my shots to hit low right, which may indicate my grip was tightening as I was squeezing the trigger. Again, it wouldn't surprise me. I was also shooting them out of 357 revolvers, so that bit of a chamber jump may contribute.

In any case, I'm going to take another swing at this combo and see if It was more me than the loadings. I'll probably skip the lower rung loads though as the cases came out pretty sooty and like I said I did see a bit of improvement around 6. gr.

1) So, I first wanted to ask what loadings people tend to really like for 38 Special and +p loadings. I believe I've heard that Win231 is a particularly good powder to use?

2) I realize that every company has variances in their plating, or jacket thickness, so I've been reluctant to just simply trust FMJ data when using platted bullets. I understand that for any new loading I need to work up the load for safety. However, I'm curious how big of an issue this really is. To me it seems a lot bigger issue if you negligently use HP data with FMJ's, as the bullet lengths can vary enough to create different case capacity and therefore different pressures.

3) As I was shooting I was looking at my loads and scrutinizing them heavily as the accuracy was not what I wanted. I looked at my crimp and it seemed a little inadequate. So I compared them to some factory loads I had in my bag, and I decided they needed a heavier roll crimp. So when I was home I tightened my crimping die down a 1/3rd turn, tried it, and the crimp now looked pretty good. I noticed some excessive sootiness at lower charges. Could a less than optimal crimp create extreme accuracy issues? I mean every one fired and extracted smoothly, and I had no problems while shooting them, but the sootiness seemed to indicate either too low of a charge, or too light of a crimp. But these were +p's, so I wouldn't image the charge was too light.

Well, after I shot all 300 rounds up I pulled out my 1911 which has been neglected for some time. I shot some 230 gr FMJ's loaded with 6.2 gr of Unique. Now those shot very well. I had three targets on the cardboard and after 150 rounds, each one had a large ragged hole on the bull's eye. At least those shot.

I still had fun despite the lackluster 38's, but I can see it's definitely time to dry fire my revolvers heavily. My skills have slipped.
 
I like Bullseye, Universal, and Titegroup; with plated I load to max lead velocities or mid level +p
For Bullseye that is ~ 3.5-3.7
Titegroup is ~3.7-4.1
Universal is ~4.4-4.6
 
How many rounds per load are you shooting?

Are you shooting from a bench or offhand?
 
How many rounds per load are you shooting?
50 of each loading. I know that's a lot for a workup, but I was testing them in three different revolvers. That gave me 3 cylinders on my 686 Competitor, 3 cylinders on my 686+, and 2 cylinders out of my SP101.

Are you shooting from a bench or offhand?
Yesterday was off hand shooting. The only indoor range in my area is not very conducive to bench testing.
 
3g, of Bullseye with a Hornady 148 HBWC was dead accurate out of my .357 Trooper, but that isn't what you are looking for. 4.5 of Unique with 158 LSWC is 'snubnose accurate' out of my 38 BodyGuard, but again, probably not what you're looking for. When I was trying for 25 yd. or longer accuracy, I loaded .357's, usually 125 HP.
 
My +P .38 Spl loads are old AA #5 and XTPs. I would think the new BE-86 would work well, but haven't tried it. I don't shoot much of that (+P .38 Spl) at all.

I like to shoot soft .38 Spl loads that are accurate. A Berrys 148 Gr HBWC over a small charge of WST or Competition works well. Titegroup is said to work very well.

Nothing is going to beat lead HBWCs for accuracy.
 
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Why do you want to shoot +P? Most 38 special target/accurate loads are standard

I do not think "plated" bullets are the most accurate projectiles out there (all other things being equal).

Bullseye and HP 38 have been the standard for years.

EDIT
2) I realize that every company has variances in their plating, or jacket thickness, so I've been reluctant to just simply trust FMJ data when using platted bullets. I understand that for any new loading I need to work up the load for safety. However, I'm curious how big of an issue this really is. To me it seems a lot bigger issue if you negligently use HP data with FMJ's, as the bullet lengths can vary enough to create different case capacity and therefore different pressures.

If you "negligently" do anything it is gonna cause a problem.

Seating depth is determined by the projectile. 38 special is not a high pressure round so a slight difference in seating depth is not as tragic as say a 9mm.
So yes there is a difference in a RN FMJ and FN or HP , use the correct data.

Per Hodgdon with HP38/W231 the COL of
158 gr Hdy XTP is 1.455
158 gr cast LSWC is 1.475

Not a great difference

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
 
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FWIW, when I shoot my 38's I like a light, accurate load. My most accurate load is a Speer 148 gr. HBWC lead bullet over 3.1 grs of 231. At 25 yds. I get 11/16' groups out of a 6" S&W Mod 14. Hardly any recoil.
 
When I was trying for 25 yd. or longer accuracy, I loaded .357's, usually 125 HP.
I have a fair amount of 38 special brass on hand from over the years, so right now my plan is to basically shoot warm 38's, and keep reloading the brass until it starts to show signs of being used up. I have no desire to buy any more 38 Special ammo. Once that's done, I'm going to reset my dies to load 357 magnum, and if I want lighter loads, I'll just load the 357 mags down.

Ultimately, my goal is to shoot 357 length cartridges exclusively from my 357 revolvers.

I no longer have any 38 revolvers, so I see no reason to acquire more 38 brass.
 
In answer to the why "38+p and not just a light target load", I am interested in recreating similar recoil as in a carry self defense load. But obviously not at the expense of accuracy.

I'm really just looking to use up my 38 brass before switching exclusively to 357's. However I have a few thousand cases, and since you don't lose them, I will be loading 38's for some time.
 
I don't know how old you are, but unless you are an infant, the odds are good that you will be done shooting (and doing anything else but decomposing) before you have shot out all your 38 special brass! Unless it's really junky stuff, it just seems to last forever.
 
me it seems a lot bigger issue if you negligently use HP data with FMJ's, as the bullet lengths can vary enough to create different case capacity and therefore different pressures.
Incorrect. Revolver bullets come with a factory supplies crimp groove. You should seat and crimp into that groove. That will not change the pressures.
I mean every one fired and extracted smoothly, and I had no problems while shooting them, but the sootiness seemed to indicate either too low of a charge, or too light of a crimp. But these were +p's, so I wouldn't image the charge was too light.
You don't get to the +P pressures until you reach the top of the charge range. The starting charges could very well cause the soot.

Medium burn rate powders like AA#5 preform best at the stop of the pressure curve. When looking at the data with a +P designation only the top charge of two exceed standard pressure limits if at all.

I use W231/HP-38 for most of my .38 Special loading. When loading +P ammo in the form of the FBI load I use HS-6.

I'm not a fan of plated bullets. I shoot lead, coated lead of jacketed bullets. I use AA#5 to replicate the Speer GDHP short barrel ammo and it works well in that application for me.
 
I'm really just looking to use up my 38 brass before switching exclusively to 357's. However I have a few thousand cases, and since you don't lose them, I will be loading 38's for some time
Unlike your big bore brass the .38 Special brass you have will last a very very long time. I have a batch of 1200 Remington cases I opened new 12 years ago and not one has failed yet. I stopped counting at 40 loadings.

My shooting buddy has several hundred Federal cases he has loaded so long the headstamp has worn off.

A few thousand .38 Special cases might be a lifetime supply for many shooters.
 
I did not find good things hand loading plated bullets with the Lead Bullet loading data. It seems plated bullets are sized like FMJ so the fall thru cylinders. I think they just must be pushed hard & fast to work. So a 148 grain Full Wad Cutter that is plated never worked to well for me as pushing them fast is typically never recommended.

So I found Plated Bullets work well with the high pressures in Semi-Autos and the +P or light Magnum Revolver loads.

For paper punching powder coated bullets or soft lead swaged bullets work good. Soft lead swaged wad cutters at low velocity shoot great.
 
Incorrect. Revolver bullets come with a factory supplies crimp groove. You should seat and crimp into that groove. That will not change the pressures.
Ah yeah I suppose so. The cannelure would prevent excessive pressure wouldn't it if you are seating there, which is at an appropriate length. I was thinking of tapper crimped semi auto cartridges. Although, as long as you are watching your OAL for that particular recipe I suppose you are close enough if varying which HP and work up a load as you should.

I use W231/HP-38 for most of my .38 Special loading.
Where do those powders fall on the burn rate scale? Are they a bit faster. I know that powder has a lot of uses.


Unlike your big bore brass the .38 Special brass you have will last a very very long time. I have a batch of 1200 Remington cases I opened new 12 years ago and not one has failed yet. I stopped counting at 40 loadings.

My shooting buddy has several hundred Federal cases he has loaded so long the headstamp has worn off.

A few thousand .38 Special cases might be a lifetime supply for many shooters.
I don't know how old you are, but unless you are an infant, the odds are good that you will be done shooting (and doing anything else but decomposing) before you have shot out all your 38 special brass! Unless it's really junky stuff, it just seems to last forever.
LOL! Nope, not an infant that's for sure, but still a reloading infant.

I had no idea small bore revolver brass lasted so long. Is that true of 357 brass at well?
 
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I'd expect .357 brass, if loaded to max or near-max, would eventually get loose primer pockets. .38 brass, which is often basically the same thing minus some length, is run at 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 of those pressures... so that doesn't ever seem to happen there.
 
I've loaded and shot a fair amount .38 special over the years. 40 years ago my dad and I always used Red Dot and 158 grain LRN. I don't remember the charge because I don't use that powder for 38 anymore. Now I load nothing but 3.5gr Bullseye and 158 grain LRN or LSWC. It's a very accurate load, but it is a bit dirty. These lead bullets are .358 and have a crimp groove. I use a fairly heavy crimp because years ago I was told it's needed for better powder ignition.

I'm going to try Trail Boss, as was suggested to me on this forum because I really want better case fill.
The above load info is a max standard load. Be sure to work up your own loads.
 
Either the 148 hbwc or my Lyman 160 grain full wc over the recommended load of Bullseye. Also, warmer, is the 358156gc over Skeeters load of 2400, crimped in lower crimp groove.
 
I shoot 158 grain plated rnfp in 38 brass over 4.2 grains of hp38, which is the same powder as 231. Accurate in a 38 revolver, 357 revolver and 357 lever rifle.
 
Berry’s plated wadcutter over 3 grains of bullseye.

2nd best is a Berry’s 125 target hp over 4 grains of bullseye.
 
don't reload 38sp, but for 357, in my snubby, 15.5gr 4227 under a 158gr LSWC. Super accurate for the 2 1/2 in barrel. Also real accurate in the Henry.
 
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