who has bobbed their hammers...........
- Thread starter JERRY
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dfariswheel
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You're far better off disassembling the gun so the hammer can be worked on unimpeded.
However, you can do a good job by masking off everything but the hammer spur.
You can do this with heavy tape, brass sheet, plastic shim stock, or what have you.
The idea is to cover everything with a protective wrap to prevent damage to the gun or it's finish if you slip.
The masking needs to be saw and file resistant.
If you slip and damage the mask, STOP, and replace the mask.
Hammers are typically pretty hard, especially case hardened hammers which have a glass hard surface.
Most hammers can be cut with a GOOD fine-tooth hacksaw, a cut-off wheel, a diamond saw blade, etc.
After cutting the spur off, radius and smooth the area with a Dremel or sand cloth wrapped around a flat file.
Clean up all the metal filings and sanding dust THOROUGHLY before unmasking the gun, so you don't get abrasive crud in the action.
After everything is clean, test fire AT LEAST 100 rounds to be SURE there's no misfire issues.
Most revolvers work fine with a de-spur job AS LONG as the revolver has had NO "trigger job" work.
If the revolver has had the action worked over, clipping the spur may well bring unreliable operation.
However, you can do a good job by masking off everything but the hammer spur.
You can do this with heavy tape, brass sheet, plastic shim stock, or what have you.
The idea is to cover everything with a protective wrap to prevent damage to the gun or it's finish if you slip.
The masking needs to be saw and file resistant.
If you slip and damage the mask, STOP, and replace the mask.
Hammers are typically pretty hard, especially case hardened hammers which have a glass hard surface.
Most hammers can be cut with a GOOD fine-tooth hacksaw, a cut-off wheel, a diamond saw blade, etc.
After cutting the spur off, radius and smooth the area with a Dremel or sand cloth wrapped around a flat file.
Clean up all the metal filings and sanding dust THOROUGHLY before unmasking the gun, so you don't get abrasive crud in the action.
After everything is clean, test fire AT LEAST 100 rounds to be SURE there's no misfire issues.
Most revolvers work fine with a de-spur job AS LONG as the revolver has had NO "trigger job" work.
If the revolver has had the action worked over, clipping the spur may well bring unreliable operation.
Jerry:
Always state the make and model of whatever revolver you have, because it could make a difference.
You can bob a hammer while it is in the gun, but I wouldn't recommend it because a slip could badly mar or gouge the frame. Also, it is quite possible that the gun's manufacturer or some after-market source might offer a hammer that was already modified.
Also, I STROGLY recommend that the single-action notch on the hammer be removed, making the gun a double-action only. Otherwise you may risk an unintentional discharge while trying to lower the cocked hammer without a spur to hold on to.
Always state the make and model of whatever revolver you have, because it could make a difference.
You can bob a hammer while it is in the gun, but I wouldn't recommend it because a slip could badly mar or gouge the frame. Also, it is quite possible that the gun's manufacturer or some after-market source might offer a hammer that was already modified.
Also, I STROGLY recommend that the single-action notch on the hammer be removed, making the gun a double-action only. Otherwise you may risk an unintentional discharge while trying to lower the cocked hammer without a spur to hold on to.
riddleofsteel
Member
removing mass from the hammer with no other changes might be enough to cause misfires from light primer strikes.
Gunsnrovers
Member
No problems here.
rockstar.esq
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Gunsnrovers you did a great job! Many among us might slip and mess things up. Rendering us "clumsy and emotional". I wouldn't think that the added effort to remove the hammer would be preventative. Plus everyone likes a well done modification and everyone hates a hack with a file.
OP
OP
JERRY
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- 3,860
thanks guys.
the guns in question are a Taurus model 85 s.s., and a sp101.
i have a cutting wheel and die grinder.........figure i could do a descent job my self cutting it (spur) off, its the radius blending that has me worried about scuffing up the frame......
thanks for the input.
the guns in question are a Taurus model 85 s.s., and a sp101.
i have a cutting wheel and die grinder.........figure i could do a descent job my self cutting it (spur) off, its the radius blending that has me worried about scuffing up the frame......
thanks for the input.
Meadhall
Member
I called Ruger about that a while back and was told that they did not sell the hammers, and that I would have to send in the gun to have the change done. (To the tune of $70)
I've bobbed the hammers on all my snubbies. It's not that big of a job. You could do it without removing the hammer by taping up the frame but for me it was alot easier to remove the hammer. Plus you don't have to worry about getting dust or shavings in the gun.
Bobbed Sp101
My local smith did mine for $20 turn around time about 4 hours.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=83327&highlight=Bobbed+sp101
My local smith did mine for $20 turn around time about 4 hours.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=83327&highlight=Bobbed+sp101
*thread drift*
I love that revolver Gunsnrovers, can you tell us a bit more about it?
It looks to me like a nickeled (?) K-frame (M&P?), square butt, snubbie, with adjustable fiber optic sights. I dont think those are factory options so, what is it?
I love that revolver Gunsnrovers, can you tell us a bit more about it?
It looks to me like a nickeled (?) K-frame (M&P?), square butt, snubbie, with adjustable fiber optic sights. I dont think those are factory options so, what is it?
Gunsnrovers
Member
It's a beat up old 2" M15-5. Hammer was bobbed (single action notch remains), trigger was rounded and smoothed. Front sight got boggered and finish was trashed.
Off it went to Tripp Research where it was hard chromed and dovetailed to accept a fibre optic blade.
Grips are Altamont panels in silver-black.
Trigger is very nice and it shoots well. Makes for a great house gun/throw it in the car gun/toss it in the back pack I'm going camping gun.
Mostly it's a nightstand pistol loaded with Federal 158gr +P Nyclad LSWCHP's with speed strip of 6 more parked next to it.
----
Back on topic, bobbing the hammer is not a major deal. A dremel, sand paper, and patience gets the job done rather easily.
Off it went to Tripp Research where it was hard chromed and dovetailed to accept a fibre optic blade.
Grips are Altamont panels in silver-black.
Trigger is very nice and it shoots well. Makes for a great house gun/throw it in the car gun/toss it in the back pack I'm going camping gun.
Mostly it's a nightstand pistol loaded with Federal 158gr +P Nyclad LSWCHP's with speed strip of 6 more parked next to it.
----
Back on topic, bobbing the hammer is not a major deal. A dremel, sand paper, and patience gets the job done rather easily.
armedcitizen
Member
I bobbed mine with a bench grinder and have had no problems. It fires everytime I pull the trigger.
Smith 65 with 3" barrel:
Smith 65 with 3" barrel:
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