Why so few Barrel Tensioning setups?

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MartinDWhite

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Search and search and I can only find a very few references to tensioned barrels on rifles. Most of the posts I read are armchair gunsmiths na saying the idea for various non-technical, or unsubstantiated reasons. Or someone saying they are going to do it, without any followup. Does anyone have a source of objective information for a tensioned barrel setup? The only few posts I find with completed setups say they increase accuracy and are lighter than a comparable sized thick/bull barrel. For me (as a machinist) it is way cheaper than a new barrel.

There is a patent http://www.google.com/patents/US4211146 that could be the reason it is not commercially available.

It could also not be commercially available because it costs. more because it still requires a conventional barrel manufacture to make a barrel to be modified.

I have a Remington 700 in .308 with a light/thin barrel. I can turn down the barrel at the receiver to press fit a piece of 1.25 x 0.83 steel tubing on to it. Then at the muzzle end I thread the last .600 inches 5/8x24 (for a suppressor), then thread the .750 inches before that to some larger thread with higher TPI, like 11/16x32. Then make a nut to go over the 11/16x32 to tension the barrel against the tubing. Since the barrel and tubing are both steel they should expand at the same rate if heat is effectively transferred to the sleeve.

If aluminum was used for the outer sleeve, which a lot of the na sayers ridiculed, the difference in expansion length for a 18 inch barrel between 70*f and 200*f is only 0.03 % between a steel barrel and aluminum outer sleeve. I can't find any numbers on overall barrel stretch in tension setups, so the difference in expansion is difficult to quantify for effect on tension. If the receiver end and mating sleeve end were threaded (1.125x32, same TPI as tensioning nut), it would be easy to test the difference by just swapping out the outer tube.

In steel is should add less than 26 oz to the rifle on an 18 inch barrel. In aluminum is should add less than 11 oz. Putting the suppressor on is an additional 16 oz. Not a super light rifle, but lighter than a big thick barrel.

Any real world feed back would be appreciated.
 
I'd suggest...

that you post your question on the Benchrest.com forum. BR shooters have tried it, you may be sure: and you may also be sure that if there were any advantage in it, they would be using tensioned barrels... but they aren't.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
Any of the actual users...

of tensioned barrels for BR would likely be happy to share their experience with you, if you post your query where they can be found, which is why I recommended that you check there.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
StraightJacket is still around, I have handled some of their weapons (never shot one) and talked to a salesman. They look nice and seem to know what they are doing technically. I think there sales job is a little over the top. $700 is more than I think that system is worth, that is just my humble opinion. They look like a good thing and I would totally have one if the price was not so high.

If I could guess at the epoxy they used to fill the liner, and had half an idea I what right, I would try it myself. The barrel tensioning seems more doable. All the supplies for tensioning are just lying in my scrap pile at the moment. Both systems seem like they will add about 2 lbs to the gun and result in a bigger looking barrel. The tensioning system is reversible, the epoxy would not be. I can do A/B tests back and forth with the tensioning to tell what works. Plus.....I really really like to build stuff.
 
I think the primary reason is cost vs perceived benefit does not appeal to a large segment of the shooting population. Ron Power built some that were water cooled to hunt prairie dogs. Chuck Warner developed an explosively clad barrel (aluminum jacket explosively bonded to the steel liner) that is being tested by USSOCOM.

I say if you're really interested and have the material/tooling/time then go for it. Experimenting is the most satisfying thing about working and shooting to me.
 
One of the best ways...

to experiment is on the Government's dime.
I once attempted to rifle (by conventional means) a pair of Government experimental AR barrels, one of Tantalum/Titanium alloy and the other of Rubidium/Titanium alloy, both of which were clad with an aluminum jacket which appeared to have been bonded in a similar manner. The raw blanks (that is, the alloy bars, about 24" long and 1/2" in diameter BEFORE the jacket was installed, or the bore EDM'd), cost Uncle about $2500 each, and both of them sneered at anything I could do to them - they were eventually rifled and chambered by EDM, which must have cost another small fortune. I didn't get an after-action report, but never heard anything else about them, either. The intention, I understood, was to produce a barrel which would give longer service life, especially in full-auto fire, as being more resistant to high temperature erosion.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
Any weight on the muzzle will change how the rifle whips vertically before the bullet exits. Sometimes enough to impact accuracy. Especially if it changes the bullet exit point to somewhere on the muzzle down swing. That'll cause those with lower muzzle velocity to leave at a greater angle below the line of sight than the faster ones that'll leave sooner. Elevation shot stringing happens.
 
Again, years ago I bid on and won, I paid $120.00 for a rifle that was claimed to the ugliest by forms that were watching the auction.

I bid for the sum of the parts but could not believe anyone could build a rifle that ugly without knowing what they were doing. I loaded 12 different loads of 10 rounds each with 12 different head stamps then installed mounts, rings and a scope.

I decided I could not improve on the accuracy and left the rifle the way I founder. The barrel and action with the stock was one piece. The front stock was also the recoil lug.

F. Guffey
 
My latest tensioning device is 10 layers of tape between the fore end of the stock and the barrel. It takes a lot of experimentation, but it doesn't cost much. :)

If you're curious: it's a Sako L579 Forester (.243) and I haven't been able to get a great group at even 100 yards EVER, and I've had it for 20 years. It was brand new when I bought it. I've tried everything. It's beautifully free-floated and as a last-ditch effort I'm "un-free-floating" it. We'll see how that works....

I didn't even know they had stuff like you guys are talking about.
 
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