X Mark Pro won’t fire

[WestKentucky]

I bought a used xmark pro trigger. Everything appeared to be ok with the trigger so I cleaned it up, sprayed it with remoil just to get a little dust out of it, and installed it onto my action. The rifle will not fire. With safety on everything locks down tight. With safety off trigger moves, but the gun will not fire. It appears as though on the muzzle end of the trigger there is an adjustment for trigger overtravel which seems to be not allowing the trigger to move far enough to actually fire. This screw seems to be epoxied in.

I don’t know what else to look at on this one. I may be way off on what is wrong, but it’s just not working. I’m frustrated with it at this point and I’m putting it away. I may break it out again tomorrow with a fresh attitude and try it again.

If y’all have ever had any problems with these things, I would appreciate input. I hate to put the walker trigger back on it, but it does at least function.

 

[WestKentucky]

In the photo from under the barrel, the screw which I think needs backed out a touch is the one nearest the action.

The side view picture without my hand in it shows the safety engaged and everything locked tight.

The picture with my hand in it shows where the trigger stops before releasing the striker.

 

[LoonWulf]

On the xmark there is actually a second spring in that hole. If someone tried to use it as a trigger stop like it would be on a walker,, than they might have gotten the spring kinked or stuck. Id take the whole thing apart, and make sure everything is clean and working correctly.



You CAN remove that second trigger return spring and use only the one in the trigger itself, but I prefer to keep that second spring and balance the two. Usually u can get a 2.5-3.5lb trigger with little issue.

 

[LoonWulf]

In the photo from under the barrel, the screw which I think needs backed out a touch is the one nearest the action.

The side view picture without my hand in it shows the safety engaged and everything locked tight.

The picture with my hand in it shows where the trigger stops before releasing the striker.

The other thing to check, is that screw above that engages the trigger directly. That one operates as the trigger stop on the Xmark pros.

 

[Varminterror]

It IS an X Mark Pro, yes, meaning it has the set screw in the trigger as well as out front? Or JUST the one out front? (X Mark, NOT Pro).

As stated above, if it is a Pro, the rear screw controls the sear engagement, and the trigger and front screw are weight adjustment. Is the sear screw loose enough to let the sear release? Is it tight enough such the cocking peice is catching upon closure, or is your striker dropping upon closure?

The front weight screw shouldn’t be able to block the trigger from breaking, and I can’t imagine it could be ran in far enough to stop the break without being in so far it crushed the spring and seized the trigger entirely.

 

[DANS40XC]

OP,
Has this X Mark trigger group recall been complied with by Remington.

Have a qualified gunsmith,not a DIY gun plumber, disassemble,clean,adjust,seal,re-install the trigger group.

Or we'll have someone else standing in line to sue Remington for proclaimed accidental discharges by shooting themselves,bystanders,or kin & blaming the trigger group for their ignorance.

 

[sourdough44]

I’d rather go Timney, yes I realize it costs more.

 

[WestKentucky]

OP,
Has this X Mark trigger group recall been complied with by Remington.

Have a qualified gunsmith,not a DIY gun plumber, disassemble,clean,adjust,seal,re-install the trigger group.

Or we'll have someone else standing in line to sue Remington for proclaimed accidental discharges by shooting themselves,bystanders,or kin & blaming the trigger group for their ignorance.

People act like putting a tool on a gun is rocket surgery. It’s not. Yes there is some technical ability and attentiveness requirements, but they absolutely are not half what people make them out to be. This is supposed to be a drop-in swap. It’s not, it’s a pain in the rear because they epoxied to screws in to where it’s no longer adjustable. If it were adjustable, probably a half turn of the screw would solve my problem.

 

[LoonWulf]

Yeah the epoxy is annoying. If they won't move, i take a fine torch to the housing and pull the screws. Then soak the hole thing in solvent.

 

[Varminterror]

Is it the normal “blue goo” on the screws, or something else? Acetone and 2min soak has always broken the X Mark and X Mark Pro screw “sealant” they use.

I’ve done SOMETHING which by legal definition absolved the OEM’s of liability to almost every firearm I have ever owned (lose track after a few hundred). Whether it’s shooting reloaded ammunition, using non-OEM aftermarket parts, using a gunsmith who isn’t a factory certified/authorized repair center (both of which I have been), or kitchen table gunsmithing - it’s incredibly simple to “void a manufacturer warranty.” Doing so also does not define a modification or practice as “unsafe,” it just gives the OEM an excuse to pull their “not my prob” card. Remington triggers are a little trickier than some other parts, and come with a greater consequence for mistakes, as are and do most triggers, but the adjustment controls ARE designed into the trigger. Remington took an opportunity to design a fully adjustable trigger, then their lawyers, conservative as they might be since they largely aren’t pro-gun folks as a business, decided the features offered too much risk, considering the spotlight which falls upon all Remington triggers... so they backpedaled on that “fully adjustable” part. Savage and Ruger owner’s manuals suggest their adjustable triggers should not be adjusted below their specified pull weights, which, again, is a means to absolve themselves of liability in the event a user unwittingly creates an unsafe trigger. Put your big boy pants on, decide for yourself whether you’re willing to accept liability and consequences should your technical understanding prove to be insufficient. It’s a personal decision.

What you do in resale is up to you as well. Wanna protect yourself from liability? Options you have: Write a waiver for the buyer to recognize the transfer of assumed liability for the modification. Buy a take-off or replacement XMP at the time of sale which has the factory seal in-tact and replace it for sale. Send it back to Rem for “repair” before selling. Lots of options.

Personally, well, there’s a reason I know it takes 2min under acetone to open the factory seal.

 

[LoonWulf]

Personally, well, there’s a reason I know it takes 2min under acetone to open the factory seal.

I tried that on a couple I got from eBay, one didn't come loose, and I just assumed i got lucky on the other.
I i didnt think about it, but now I wonder if there wasn't some other thread locker or something on the one that didn't work.
The others I've worked on came out without needing to soak or heat. Couple turns in, then backed out and the sealant came out as a chunk.